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How to change kingpins in a mk1, mk2 or Lwb mk3 transit.

i have just done a set on a H reg twin wheeler mk3,

king pin set

   tools used

  •    i used a propane bottle
  •    roofers gas torch from machine mart
  •    a big hammer
  •    adjustable reamer (which you can hire from tool shops) 
       various scokets and spanners
  •    wire brush
  •    grease gun
  •    emery cloth
  •    large pin punch









this is how i do it.........

  • crack the wheel nuts remember they undo to the rear on twin wheelers
  • jack it up under the beam and put on stands under beam as close to end of axle beam as poss (helps stop bounce when wackin them)
  • unbolt and remove brake caliper complete with pads do not disconect hoses 17mm socket for bottom bolt,if the brake hose is in the way on top use a 17 mm ring give it a sharp knock with hammer to crack the bolt if its solid
  • cable tie caliper out the way
  • unbolt the 24 mm nut on the steering bar and lower out the way
  • prise of hub bearings cap
  • remove spilt pin and castle lock washer
  • then unbolt either 24 or 27 mm nut draw of hub n brake disc complete
  • there may be a back plate to unbolt some have some dont
  • unbolt lower bolt thro shock absorber push up out way (19mm bolt n nut )
  • now you will be left with the stub axle /kingpin assembly
  • look at it and you will see a grease nipple top n bottom, under this there is a cap remove it with a 36 mm socket
  • now this is how i do the next bit
  • wire brush the stub axle and beam of muck in the beam locate the thro pin
  • now you can try n wack it out with a punch but i have found they hardly ever do i centre punch it down the hole and drill 3/4 thro with a small drill then a bigger drill, keep the drill straight and let it cut, dont force it you dont want a bust drill in there
  • then tap it out with a punch it will fly out no probs

now is the fun bit because its either gonna tap out or be stuck solid (some ive done have fell out , some have been a nightmare) but just take your time have a cup of tea and plod on

we will presume there stuck

  • now find a suitable long old socket i use an old long reach 15mm for this held in a pair of mole grips, i then light up the roofers torch adjust the regulator on bottle till its full wack and then spend 10 mins warming the beam, i get it glowing red, and useing my 10 lb lump hammer wack the pin down from the top, it may well now come out easy but, it may move a bit and need reheating, keep doing this until you have finally knocked it out, dont be surprised if it takes a couple of hours and you hair stinks of burnt grease and you have a sooty face
  • this is a good time to get some dinner and leave it all to cool off
  • take the stub axle and fix it in a well fixed vice, inside the stub axle is 2 bushes top n bottom, you need to drive them out but be careful not to damage the threads that hold the grease caps on, i use an old 18mm socket that i welded to a old socket extention bar to wack them out, they do come out fairly easy
  • now clean the stub up with a bit of emery cloth
  • locate the new bushes in your king pin set ,apply a bit of grease to outer shell and genntly tap them back in, i use a copper hammer to do this and then the 18mm socket to drive them in to place
  • now you need the adjustable reamer, set it so its just catches the bush then ream a little of (keep cleaning of the swarf as you go), you keep adjusting the reamer until the new king pin is a firm fit and requires a good hand pressure to push in
  • do this to both bushes
  • find your new lower bearing in your kit and place it on the stub axle
  • next find the thrust washer in the kit and a hand full of shims, offer up the stub axle to beam keeping lower bearing located in stub it has a slight lip to keep it located
  • push in the upper thrust washer i used the wooden handle of the hammer to tap in, sometimes you may have to add shims for a tight fit
  • line it all up by looking down thro the set up, do not attempt to fit pin until its all lined up
  • look at the kingpin theres a grove machined in it half way down, apply a little grease to the pin and make sure the stub axle points in the straight a head wheel postion.
  • keep the groove in the pin to the rear so its facing toward other side of transit
  • gently tap in (i use a copper mallet) keep going until it is just past the cap thread on top
  • look at axle beam and check to see the groove is on show
  • get new thro pin apply a little grease
  • make sure you put narrowist end in first tap in axle beam. (i do it from the rear of axle beam)
  • put new grease nipples on caps
  • screw caps back on and apply grease with a grease gun until a good ole splodge appears thro new lower bearing and around new thrust washers
  • refit shock absorber, hub and brake caliper and steering rod

dont forget to pump brake pedal up or you will have a 10 second panic when you come to stop.

hope this helps best wishes Billy

Article written by Billybun