KH_Towbars wrote:is the battery secured firmly & does it blow when you do something like start the van
KH_Towbars wrote:when driving on the road & you lose power that will be the fuse blowing then, the smart charge system picks it up & compensates for the difference
it's early days, I was just going through the obvious, someone will no doubt reply to this who had the same problem or knows more than i doleebee wrote:KH_Towbars wrote:when driving on the road & you lose power that will be the fuse blowing then, the smart charge system picks it up & compensates for the difference
That makes sense to me. I will check wiring as best as I can.
I was just hoping somebody could point me in the right direction as to where the short may be (if there was a common place that a main cable wears through). Its just a little awkward crawling underneath with no ramps - what is visible under bonnet looks ok. Thanks again
leebee wrote:Update. After replacing 4 main fuses, we removed all wiring harnesses, changed alternator and starter motor - no short circuit found. Couldn't keep changing main fuse so soldered up the last one. It held for three weeks but then the starter motor failed.
On inspection the brush wires in starter had overheated and burn't out so they were replaced. The starter brushes were replaced but the brush wires were found burn't out again after one day's use.
A second set of brushes were renewed and a separate feed with push button switch was attached to the solenoid to rule out any problems with ignition switch and wiring. The engine turned over normally on the switch - we tested it on short bursts about ten times - absolutely fine, and the engine /pulleys etc did not seem tight in any way. We then started the engine and ran it for twenty minutes. After turning off the starter brushes had burn't out again.
In short, I believe because we soldered the main fuse, it is not working as it should and burning the brush wires out as the next weakest point. We cannot find an electrical short circuit so I can only assume the starter is running in mesh with the engine, as the fault only occurs after the engine has run for a while. There is no sign of filings or debris on the starter pinion each time it has been removed and the fly wheel looks ok. I don't want to put a solid flywheel, new clutch, starter and new main fuse on as I am not confident that this is the problem.
Any ideas appreciated?
ake wrote:Have you completely removed and checked the battery cables, from battery to starter , and from battery to engine bay fuse box:?:
APH wrote:Hmm....reading this with interest Where was the starter purchased from? as if not a genuine ford one then that would definately be a problem. However, you say that you have wired the starter main feed straight from battery, as well as the solenoid feed. correct? If so, start the van then Disconnect the main cable from the battery to the starter at the battery end, and connect a multimeter set to 20 volts dc to this lead and earth. Insulate the lead so it can't touch any bodywork. Provided you can drive the van without staling it, you should see NO voltage on the starter cable, If however, as you suspect the starter is not fully disengaging you will see a voltage as it will work as a generator
If you get nothing, then I would suspect an internal short within the starter causing it to draw current continuously, could even be carbon from brushes "bridging" the main switch (inside the solenoid).
Hope that makes sense,