My First MK5 Transit (round 2) - Questions!

[PistonMeetValves]

Scratch the above post! I've decided to try and do the cable-tie-thebugger-open mod.

ANOTHER QUESTION (who'd have thought??) !

- I've read its best to screw pump up at same time? I'd rather have the MPG's, so can I just do EGR mod thingie and it'll run better? also considering putting small measures of 2T oil in after reading some good reviews on here with it....!


Thanks guys, the knowledge you chaps have is bloody priceless!

[Mr RVM]

Scratch the above post! I've decided to try and do the cable-tie-thebugger-open mod.

ANOTHER QUESTION (who'd have thought??) !

- I've read its best to screw pump up at same time? I'd rather have the MPG's, so can I just do EGR mod thingie and it'll run better? also considering putting small measures of 2T oil in after reading some good reviews on here with it....!


Thanks guys, the knowledge you chaps have is bloody priceless!

Its always best to blank the EGR but you can just "Tie open" the butterfly (this should prevent EGR from operating as its operated by the pressure differential "fore and aft" of the flap when its closed/partially closed, but you can also just disconnect the small pipes that attach to the EGR diaphragm and join them together to seal them, that way valve cant lift anyway but of course valve may not be seated correctly if it has any "crap" on the seat face so blanking is the best way (I usually make my own blanks, probably most of us do ?) just a piece of thin steel with 2 holes drilled in it and fitted in with a bit of exhaust paste

winding in the screw on the top of the pump (usually by no more than 1 and a half turns) increases "demand" fuelling which gives you more "grunt" but does not really negatively affect overall fuel consumption (If at all ?) Its during acceleration upto road speed that is the most uneconomical time for an engine so some would say "the quicker you get there the better" (Makes sense to me )

And as fof 2 stroke oil in the fuel.....I havnt ran a diesel without it for years I just put a good "glug" in everytime I stick £20/£30 of diesel in mine (cant really overdose so not bothered about measuring)

[PistonMeetValves]

Right, done the EGR mod, and screwed the pump up x1.25. What a difference! Combined with my light amount of 2T and the two mods together, it is quiet (induction ROOAR isn't lol), noticeably more powerful and doesn't seem to be using more fuel.

Thanks for your reply, RVM! (And to everyone that has helped, it really made a difference guys ) - Helped ease my mental suffering lol. I was approached by a friends father today, who upon finding out that I had tied the EGR said that I should put it back to standard, as it could fry the engine? Is there a real danger of this happening? Kind of worried now! I've ordered the EGR blanking plate as a cautionary measure, as it would stop hot exhaust getting to my (should be..) cold intake. If I blank the EGR (and I have hunted for an answer), do I have to do anything to the vacuum hoses after the blank is installed and the flap is tied up? Wouldn't have thought so but just want to be sure.

Is it best to blank EGR end, or exh. manifold end? was probably going to do EGR end?


Also, the engine seems quite hot when its up to temperature, but I've put it down to it being a dirty great 2.5Di lol, moving that weight about most engines would get hot


Cheers again guys!

[darkbluevanman]

I get the impression water run down the door seal rubber and into the step well.... mine had and rotted the lip that holds the seal on, then into the sill (which almost survived because it was waxoyled 6yrs ago) chopped out and replace and MADE SURE!!!!!! The drain holes in the step well were clear

[PistonMeetValves]

I get the impression water run down the door seal rubber and into the step well.... mine had and rotted the lip that holds the seal on, then into the sill (which almost survived because it was waxoyled 6yrs ago) chopped out and replace and MADE SURE!!!!!! The drain holes in the step well were clear

Drain holes you say? Hrrm, might have to try and see if mine has them

[darkbluevanman]

I get the impression water run down the door seal rubber and into the step well.... mine had and rotted the lip that holds the seal on, then into the sill (which almost survived because it was waxoyled 6yrs ago) chopped out and replace and MADE SURE!!!!!! The drain holes in the step well were clear

Drain holes you say? Hrrm, might have to try and see if mine has them

It will have.... unless they've been filled over!.... little indents behind the lip that holds the door seal on.

[Mr RVM]

Right, done the EGR mod, and screwed the pump up x1.25. What a difference! Combined with my light amount of 2T and the two mods together, it is quiet (induction ROOAR isn't lol), noticeably more powerful and doesn't seem to be using more fuel.

Thanks for your reply, RVM! (And to everyone that has helped, it really made a difference guys ) - Helped ease my mental suffering lol. I was approached by a friends father today, who upon finding out that I had tied the EGR said that I should put it back to standard, as it could fry the engine? Is there a real danger of this happening? Kind of worried now! I've ordered the EGR blanking plate as a cautionary measure, as it would stop hot exhaust getting to my (should be..) cold intake. If I blank the EGR (and I have hunted for an answer), do I have to do anything to the vacuum hoses after the blank is installed and the flap is tied up? Wouldn't have thought so but just want to be sure.

Is it best to blank EGR end, or exh. manifold end? was probably going to do EGR end?


Also, the engine seems quite hot when its up to temperature, but I've put it down to it being a dirty great 2.5Di lol, moving that weight about most engines would get hot


Cheers again guys!

Poppycock I say POPPYCOCK some on here have removed flap altogether and have no issues
Blank EGR at the exhaust end if you can (but either end is fine)

[PistonMeetValves]

Poppycock I say POPPYCOCK some on here have removed flap altogether and have no issues
Blank EGR at the exhaust end if you can (but either end is fine)

Excellent! Just what I needed to hear Like I say, it does seem to run rather hot, but it is a diesel (I've noticed they hold their heat longer than my petrol engined horseless carriages did) and it is rather large Thanks man, just gotta wait on the blanking plate arriving, and continue to enjoy the mighty Di's rrrroOOOAAR as I go up the gears, while being smoother and less 'chappy' than a 2T-Less derv burner

Throttle cable has been lubed at the foot pedal, the body attaching to the body near the fuel pump, and all of the cable I could see with good 'ol Castrol GTX. The buggers still stiff as a Farmfoods pizza! Ideas on a postcard...?


N.B: also, must say I laughed at the quaintness and indeed, the hilarity of 'POPPYCOCK I SAY'

[Mr RVM]

Try pulling the cable out from under the slam panel (its behind a plastic cover that's fastened with about 3 or 4 screws) and try the pedal with the cable free of any tight bends and make sure that the metal bracket that the square end of the cable adjuster is not twisted so that the inner cable isn't rubbing hard against the side of the threaded tube of the adjuster, that sometimes makes a difference (just twist it with a pair of grips till you can see the cable is not rubbing as it enters)
I'm also assuming that as you have tied open the EGR/air intake flap, that you HAVE removed the operating rod

[PistonMeetValves]

Try pulling the cable out from under the slam panel and try the pedal with the cable free of any tight bends and make sure that the metal bracket that the square end of the cable adjuster is not twisted so that the inner cable isn't rubbing hard against the side of the threaded tube of the adjuster, that sometimes makes a difference (just twist it with a pair of grips till you can see the cable is not rubbing as it enters)

Hrrm, i'll definitely be doing something about that soon, thanks for the tip man I must say, I do love a free throttle pedal

[Mr RVM]

Edited above post...Re operating rod

[PistonMeetValves]

Edited above post...Re operating rod

Oh yeah, removed rod before tying it open with hose off to check flap/valve position. Definitely moves and shakes better with the two mods combined. Friend still convinced its a bad thing having 'free flowing exhaust gases constantly entering the engine'

[MinorMatt]

Its the opposite... you have stopped the exhaust gasses entering the engine.

When the flap is closed there is a pressure differential on the 2 sides, causing a vacuum on the downstream side. This vacuum is used to "lift" the valve from its closed position to allow exhaust gas to enter the engine to be re-burnt.

By tieing the flap open, there is no vacuum, and the EGR valve can't open, preventing the gas from entering the engine!

Does that make any sense?

[PistonMeetValves]

Its the opposite... you have stopped the exhaust gasses entering the engine.

When the flap is closed there is a pressure differential on the 2 sides, causing a vacuum on the downstream side. This vacuum is used to "lift" the valve from its closed position to allow exhaust gas to enter the engine to be re-burnt.

By tieing the flap open, there is no vacuum, and the EGR valve can't open, preventing the gas from entering the engine!

Does that make any sense?

That makes perfect sense! Now to get other people to understand Thanks Matt

[PistonMeetValves]

Another Question! (for those of you not yet asleep with my questions ) :-

Has anyone used that miracle-style wear prohibiting oil ZX-1 in a 2.5Di? Heard a lot of mixed good and bad about the stuff, apparently the MOD/NATO use it on their trucks...?


Any ideas?