MK3 6 stud rear axle change stud bolts

[axxez]

Hi!

I am about to change some destroyed stud bolts on my 1989 mk3 6stud single wheel (per side! ) rear axle. I never disassembled it and don't know exactly what is waiting for me...
On the first try, the wheel bearing nut stopped me from going any further. It needs a sw65 nut to open it, which is way too unusual for anyone to have it in his toolbox. I ordered one, but it didn't arrive till now.

So far I know the following procedure:
Taking of wheel, removing axle drive shaft, removing wheel bearing nuts and wheel bearing.

What I think comes next:
Removing break drum (?), remove studs...??

[dumper]

Hi tap the locking tab back so you can get the socket on the nut undo the nut it may left hand thread remove nut and then remove locking tab and then undo the second nut then remove the bearing if the drum and hub will not come off as one what I do is put the half shaft on the wrong way round with3nuts so it is sticking out from the van and use this as a lever to work the hub and drum off the axle by wobbling the shaft up and down and pulling at the same time hope this helps

[axxez]

Cool! Thanks for the advice! I like the idea of using the shaft the other way round Easy method, only need to have the idea. Probably this weekend I will get the SW65 nut. But it's from UK, so I don't know if it will arrive in time.. Anyway, I will upload some more pics as soon as I get done with it.

[axxez]

Just a another important question, as I might try to do the work this weekend:

Is the nut leaft hand thread remove? Does anybody know for sure? The Ford-dealer told me that there is only one part-number for nuts on both axle-sides. This would mean: right hand thread remove on all sides. BUT: The guy there couldn't see my exact axle, but saw 2 different models (with also same part numbers for the nuts). So I am not completely sure if he got the right car anyway..

[Wadey]

Normally If a thread is left hand it will be on the left side of the vehicle so it won't undo as the wheel turns if it became loose but iv not done one with a left hand thread
And if remember correctly the drum is the hub so the studs are knocked into the drum just knock the old ones out and the new ones are in but make Sure there in all the way else the they may work loose when them do pull in with the wheel

[axxez]

So, now the weather is finally better AND I do have time
The tip to bolt the axle vice versa to have something to pull the break off was really good and helped, thanks! Only thing I forgot in the beginning: handbrake needs to be off, because otherwise the drum will not come off.
Lateron I found this video for a landrover axle, which I think is quiet helpfull: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=167535

!!! IMPORTANT QUESTION !!!
I found a feather inside the drum break that fell off... See pictures. Where the heck did that come from?? Any ideas where I should put it? Thanks!

Unimportant question: Do I have the "Salisbury" axle? I decoded my VIN-plate with the mk4/mk5 codes found on another topic viewtopic.php?f=31&t=10363
Is that the same for my transit (mk3)?

[axxez]

So everyting running perfectly now The spring (mistranslated with "feather") that was loose had a broken hook. As I didn't have any new spring, I untwisted the spring some turns and created a new hook. Not quick, but dirty and working fine till now.

[Mòchen]

Hi axxez, i saw this helpful topic, i'm going to do same work on my mk3.

Can you remember how many oil comes out after flange removing?

[axxez]

Hi Mòchen,

This highly depends on how much you jack up the side you are repairing. I always jacked it up to the maximum possible with normal equipment (wheel of the road maybe 5cms) and the amount of oil is not too much. The car will be driveable after that, even without (recommended) refill. Just put some bucket under the axle and wait till no more fluid comes out. Then fill the axle with toiletpaper to make sure no dirt comes in and no oil comes out. Should work fine, don't worry. Also I'd suggest to wrap the axle drive shaft (or how it's called) that you will be taking out into some strong trash bag and put tape around it. That's how I repaired parts on the road / in dirt without destroying it.So good luck and I hope I could help

[Mòchen]

Many thanks Axxez, i really thought this post was too old, so your detailed answer is a surprise for me!

This infos are very precoious for me, because i was afraid after removing axle cover, oil would be totally come out. Now i'm sure i can proceed.

As for you i must buy sw65 tool, and i want to ask you last things: standard sw65 is enough thin?Was you able to insert it into drum hole?
Did you tight it manually or with a dynamometric key?

[axxez]

You're welcome Oil could only come out a lot if you don't lift the car high enough. We where actually changing the axle oil one time, trying to get out all the old oil by lifting the closed side of the axle. It was coming out a lot, but still some oil remainend, which then was manually pumped out.

So about the SW65 socket spanner, I bought it on amazon and it even came from UK. The name was something like "SW65 for Ford Transit" and it costed around 45€ to me. Quality was good and till now it always worked fine. Actually there are not many offers online for that specific tool, so maybe you will find the same dealer as me. If you like you can post it here, so others can find it.

I was tighten the bearing up by hand and some feeling. So, there are two nuts, one to adjust the wheel-bearing and one to protect the other nut from moving. First/inner one should be adjusted, outer/last one should be tightened. I highly recommend the Heynes's manual to get the correct Nm. Anyway, I just pushed it hard with a 60cm 3/4 inch bar and the 65 nut. Works absolutely fine! Those are old technical parts, which forgive innocence and stupidity, so just hit the outer one hard If you want a guess, I'd say I am putting the same Nm that I put on the wheel nuts and they sometimes get a little bit more than they should.
Hope that helps. Feel free to post some pics of your repair!

Cheers!

[Mòchen]

I think I could not have better advice ever. That's perfect!

I'm still waiting for Hayne's manual in this days, i hope it will arrive soon, then i'll check on it.

However i think i didn't need it and i can proceed following your suggestions.

First step is asking some mechanicks to borrow me an sw65 tool.

Still many thanks for your precious suggestions!

[axxez]

I just looked the torque up in my Heyne's. It's 85 Nm for the outer wheelnut. Inner one needs to be adjusted as I said before. Adjust as followed: Keep turning the wheel by hand and tighten the nut until it starts to turn less/stops. The right adjustment is somewhere in between: the wheel has to move free, but the nut shouldn't be too loose. By the way, I was driving it too loose, like 40-50 Nm without problem and now it might have 100 Nm since a while, also no problem. Indicators for problems are heat on the out part of the axle and noises coming from the bearings. As long as none of that occurs and the wheel doesn't have clearance when moving you will be finde
If your axle looks different to mine (should be G axle Type 51A), there is a chance that it is the G axle Type 51 which was mounted from 1992 on. In this case you would need 540 Nm. If you aren't sure, better wait for the book delivery.

[Mòchen]

Great! That's the cherry on the cake (that's an italian proverb ).
One of my friend is going to borrow me tool and workshop, so i'll update you in a few days to give you a feedback about what's going on
But with this suggest nothing cannot going wrong

[gwynfe]

Just snapped the stud on my recently purchased mk3 100l camper.
I feel rather stupid as I was unaware it was a left hand thread. Anyway can anyone help with some information on the stud part code and where I can purchase it and also the left hand thread wheel nut
Many thanks

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