2007 Transit MK7 2.4 TDCI 140 RWD black emissions

[myrebuilder]

The exhaust broke off the catalytic converter and apart of the deep sound and the turbo whistle after releasing the acc pedal while changing gears everything was fine for a week.
Then the engine management light came on, I looked under the hood and the breather was off the valve cover. I plugged it back on and after a few restarts the engine management light went off. A couple of days later it came back on and a strange problem appeared. After accelerating mildly, the engine has a second of a hesitation and then it smokes black until I release the acc pedal to change gear and then runs clean until a minute later and does the same thing. If I step hard on the acc pedal from the start it never smokes black but the turbo whistle is loud every time I change a gear. After I run it on the motorway for a bit, it stops acting like that, the turbo whistle becomes much softer when I change gears and it never smokes black even at very mild acceleration neither has that momentary hesitation...it works fine. After I switch the engine off and restart I have the same issue again.
It is like a sensor gives the signal to enrich the mixture and then it gets reset ones the acc pedal is released but then it does the same thing again. If I play with the pedal up and down or at full throttle though this does not happen.
Does any Transit WIZ know what strange problem that is? I called a garage and they said "injector problem" which I think is wrong with my racing engineering background (not diesel though) ... I called Ford and they said "140 quid to diagnose and then whatever the cost for repair" ... from ignorance to total ripoff... I have just received a new catalytic converter with the pipe and all. I d like to fix the black smoke problem though before I put it on. Any suggestion will be much appreciated. Any RELIABLE Transit wiz garage round Coventry that you may know of would also be brilliant.
This van is my workshop and I cant work without it. Thank you for your help.

[andz327]

The exhaust broke off the catalytic converter and apart of the deep sound and the turbo whistle after releasing the acc pedal while changing gears everything was fine for a week.
Then the engine management light came on, I looked under the hood and the breather was off the valve cover. I plugged it back on and after a few restarts the engine management light went off. A couple of days later it came back on and a strange problem appeared. After accelerating mildly, the engine has a second of a hesitation and then it smokes black until I release the acc pedal to change gear and then runs clean until a minute later and does the same thing. If I step hard on the acc pedal from the start it never smokes black but the turbo whistle is loud every time I change a gear. After I run it on the motorway for a bit, it stops acting like that, the turbo whistle becomes much softer when I change gears and it never smokes black even at very mild acceleration neither has that momentary hesitation...it works fine. After I switch the engine off and restart I have the same issue again.
It is like a sensor gives the signal to enrich the mixture and then it gets reset ones the acc pedal is released but then it does the same thing again. If I play with the pedal up and down or at full throttle though this does not happen.
Does any Transit WIZ know what strange problem that is? I called a garage and they said "injector problem" which I think is wrong with my racing engineering background (not diesel though) ... I called Ford and they said "140 quid to diagnose and then whatever the cost for repair" ... from ignorance to total ripoff... I have just received a new catalytic converter with the pipe and all. I d like to fix the black smoke problem though before I put it on. Any suggestion will be much appreciated. Any RELIABLE Transit wiz garage round Coventry that you may know of would also be brilliant.
This van is my workshop and I cant work without it. Thank you for your help.

The nlack smoke problem is probably the egr playing up, best to get plugged onto an ids gadget to read/ find stored faults, make sure your air filter is OK as it'll be sucking your black exhaust fumes from broken pipe, if its choked the turbo struggles more and can change the noise

andZ3 Sony Z3

[knobby1]

+1 ^^...certainly sounds EGR related.....but needs the zorst fixed first.

Lord Knobrot

[myrebuilder]

Thank you guys. I ll be checking/cleaning the EGR valve then. I ll also check the air filter although the exhaust pipe broke off after the catalytic converter so no fumes come up to the filter. In any case I either step hard on the throttle or play up and down with the pedal and prevent it for smoking black except momentarily. Also I noticed that the air intake pipe has a little play where it connects to the turbo (like the nuts are lose). I tried to tighten the nuts but they are frozen solid. I think that the gasket is no good and thus the play. I ll try to WD40 the nuts and try to move them. By the way knobby1 what is "zorst" ?

[ned]

Zorst is the exhaust N

[knobby1]

Zorst is the exhaust N

Yeah...sorry...Aussie slang for exhaust.

Also you'll need to repair/fix the loose turbo inlet...the MAF sensor will be sending out duff readings if she's not all good in the inlet area.

Everything needs to be right for these beasts to run nicely....broken exhaust, duff EGR and poorly turbo inlet will send all sorts of nonsense to the PCM, the MAF & MAP sensors will not know what is right.

Nonsense in = nonsense out. I suspect this is why your beast is suffering. Get everything repaired correctly, then have all the normal learns done and you might be getting close.

Lord Knobrot

[andz327]

Thank you guys. I ll be checking/cleaning the EGR valve then. I ll also check the air filter although the exhaust pipe broke off after the catalytic converter so no fumes come up to the filter. In any case I either step hard on the throttle or play up and down with the pedal and prevent it for smoking black except momentarily. Also I noticed that the air intake pipe has a little play where it connects to the turbo (like the nuts are lose). I tried to tighten the nuts but they are frozen solid. I think that the gasket is no good and thus the play. I ll try to WD40 the nuts and try to move them. By the way knobby1 what is "zorst" ?

Yeah exhaust split after catalytic conver will still clogg air filter coz it's blown BLACK SMOKE oot its ass in it

andZ3 Sony Z3

[knobby1]

Yeah exhaust split after catalytic conver will still clogg air filter coz it's blown BLACK SMOKE oot its ass in it ...andZ3 Sony Z3

Aye...and will screw up the volume of exhaust flow going through the EGR cooler and hence the EGr and MAP sensor...

Lord Knobrot

[myrebuilder]

Thank you for all the details. Yes, with these "modern" electronic engines everything has to be perfect not to get out of line.
Anyways, it just popped into my mind to take off the MAF and clean it...I did with some engine cleaner spray and then some isopropyl alcohol and wow!!! now it runs like a charm.
I ll get the air inlet to the turbo fixed ones I ll be able to crack the nuts loose and change the cat and exhaust ones again I manage to get the nuts loose. Should I buy a code reader/reset program off ebay? I found eBay item number:371163864209 for £109 ... what do you think?
Thank you again so much for sharing your massive knowledge.

[knobby1]

I have one of these for my Mk7....:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Vehicle- ... Swe7BW1DIs

Works fine for reading and erasing/resetting codes etc...Can't do much else though. If you want to do the full monty, you'll need IDS or a clone thereof..

Lord Knobrot

[myrebuilder]

Well guys I replaced the cat but still the wastegate was stuck open and the engine was lacking power. Then I tightened the turbo air intake hose but it was still a little loose (although the rubber ring was possibly sealing after tightening since I got back engine power). I took it off and the 2 metal spacers in the bolt holes seemed 2mm longer than the plastic hose holes so I filed a little off the spacers and now the hose fits nice and snug ... just snug. Now the wastegate doesnt stick open any more, the engine is back onto proper power and I dont have the black smoke. The engine management light stays on so I run a code read and the MAF shows "low frequency". I thought to change the MAF but there is no part number written on it and there are 2 part numbers available (8V21-12B579-AA and 6C11-12B579-AA) and I have no clue which one is the right one. On the airbox infront of the MAF it writes 6C11 9600 and I guess this is the airbox part number.
Would you know which is the right one? Remember 2007 2.4 TDCI 140 T350 RWD.
Also should I block the EGR valve? There are full or partial blocking plates available. What is your expert opinion about that?
Your super valuable help is much appreciated.

[knobby1]

The Mk7 140 doesn't have a waste-gate type turbo, they have a VNT, (Variable Nozzle Turbine) turbo with an electronic actuator.

I'd say your EGR is still not happy....MAF & MAP fault codes can often be traced back to a duff EGR. MAF & MAP sensors rarely fail, EGR's fail all the time. If you have a MAF sensor code, I'd be checking the wiring in the plug or the loom to the plug for faults.

Blanking the EGR on a Mk7 will still have the DTC light on unless the EGR has been mapped out "correctly"... even if you do blank it the EGR still will need to work properly, if it's stuck open or closed, it'll throw up a fault code. The PCM needs/expects to see a certain range of air flows and pressures at the MAF & Map sensors or you'll get fault codes. Best to get everything working as it should for best results.

If you do blank or map out the EGR, you'll fail your next MOT...they'll be checking for these things...Everything pollution/emissions related must work as designed or it will fail...this goes for cats and DPF's if fitted.

Lord Knobrot

[myrebuilder]

HMM!!! Thats what I suspected. I run the van for a couple of months without cat and loose air intake so possibly the egr is messed up now. I looked in the service history book and the EGR and common rail were replaced and the fuel pump reprogrammed in November 2015. Should I clean or replace it the EGR?
The engine runs fine now (especially after tightening the air intake hose to the turbo ... it gained lots of torque), only in the morning it does a slight hiccup ones or twice after startup while idling. The wiring to the maf must be fine. It gives MAF fault (low frequency) and the engine management light goes off after clearing the codes but then again it comes on after engine runs for a few minutes.
Thanks so much for your help mate. Much appreciated.