My chassis rails internal rust removal idea (Thoughts?)

[nznikin]

Is this the correct sub-forum?
I have a crazy idea to remove some rust from the internals of my chassis rails. I've been using electrolysis to remove rust from other parts and its worked quite successfully. So I thought I might as well give it a go for the rails. Here's my plan, I am open to all ideas regarding this issue so please tell me what you think.

ELECTROLYSIS SETUP
Step1. Use x2 6meter long re-bar as the anode to span the length of the van. One for each side.
Step2. Insert them down the length of the rail and isolate from the chassis by means of pool noodles at various sections. Also custom spacers in sections where pool noodle is not able to fit.
Step3. Seal up the rails 100% so no water leaks out.
Step4. Fill with sodium carbonate solution.
Step5. Attach positive lead to re-bar and negative lead to a good place of contact on the chassis. May need to attach positive link to far end of re-bar as I imagine Vdrop will be significant.
Step6. Let sit for a few days and then check progress. For this I will empty the rails, pull out the re-bar and inspect. If needed I will clean the re-bar of accumulated rust and repeat for as long as necessary until all rust has gone from the rails.
RUST PROOING
Step7. Clean out rails with pressure washer and clean out with detergent.
Step8. Dry rails and use a paint gun with flexible attachment to reach inside and coat with internal cavity rust proofing coating
Step9. DONE!

[knobby1]

What a cool idea..!

I wonder if you should be disconnecting the vehicle electrics and/or battery first....?? Is there a possibility of frying something..?? What sort of voltage/current will you be using..??

Lord Knobrot

[nznikin]

Cool idea..! I wonder if you should be disconnecting the vehicle electronics or battery first....?? Is there a possibility of frying something..??

Lord Knobrot

Hi Lord Knobrot.

Good idea. I should add, Ive fully disconnected the electrical harnesses to the engine bay. Also I've had some extra steps that I may add to the process. Angle the van upwards slightly so the hydrogen off gassing has an easier time escaping and also perhaps add some sort of vibrating motor on the chassis rails to help dislodge any stuck bubbles.

[knobby1]

Cool idea..! I wonder if you should be disconnecting the vehicle electronics or battery first....?? Is there a possibility of frying something..??

Lord Knobrot

Hi Lord Knobrot.

Good idea. I should add, Ive fully disconnected the electrical harnesses to the engine bay. Also I've had some extra steps that I may add to the process. Angle the van upwards slightly so the hydrogen off gassing has an easier time escaping and also perhaps add some sort of vibrating motor on the chassis rails to help dislodge any stuck bubbles.

Clever thinking there Sir..! Sounds like you have it all nutted out then..!

Lord Knobrot

[nznikin]

Cool idea..! I wonder if you should be disconnecting the vehicle electronics or battery first....?? Is there a possibility of frying something..??

Lord Knobrot

Hi Lord Knobrot.

Good idea. I should add, Ive fully disconnected the electrical harnesses to the engine bay. Also I've had some extra steps that I may add to the process. Angle the van upwards slightly so the hydrogen off gassing has an easier time escaping and also perhaps add some sort of vibrating motor on the chassis rails to help dislodge any stuck bubbles.

Clever thinking there Sir..! Sounds like you have it all nutted out then..!

Lord Knobrot

Thanks! I've gone though a whole list of other possible solutions and I think this might be the ticket. I'll be sure to use this thread to update with photos and what not of how it turns out.

Cheers,
Nick

[nznikin]

What a cool idea..!

I wonder if you should be disconnecting the vehicle electrics and/or battery first....?? Is there a possibility of frying something..?? What sort of voltage/current will you be using..??

Lord Knobrot

Hi, Sorry I neglected to mention the V and I ratings. Currently I am using a 12V computer PSU that puts out 12volts. Roughly 11.3 when connected. Current will depend on what ever the Vdrop ends up being. PSU is capable of 12v @ 15A so if need I can reduce current by removing wires from the feed.(multiple wires make up the 15A, not one big cable). I'll use my clamp on to measure the current when I get a change. Idealy it should sit between 2-6Amps.
Also, there is not really a chance to fry anything as the voltage loop is between the re-bar and the chassis, internal electrics of the van are in effect isolated with respect to the setup so there should be no chance of a fry up

Cheers,
Nick