Epic code reading. Confused!

[dibs]

Does anyone know where I can get my mk5 transit 2.5 turbo diesel with epic pump (100ps 4EC engine) system read in the Manchester area (cheap)? Just got the van and it goes great! On a run last weekend to Belgium the Engine Management Light came on 4 or 5 times and went in to limp mode. Luckily the system resets when I restart the engine so the drive wasn't too painful! I've had it read with a snap on reader (at two garages) which has the engine number on the system but reads 'no codes'. Is this because it needs a special reader for the system? Don't want to damage anything by driving to much further. The engine light stays on for 3 seconds after the engine is started. Any help would be appreciated.

[psv-hgv-flt]

fds2000 or ngs reader.

[MinorMatt]

How old is the cambelt?

[dibs]

Not sure how old exactly the timing belt is as I've only just got the van, the guy I bought it off said he'd changed it twice in the 3 years he'd had it but that's no guarantee! The engine light wasn't working until I changed the bulb either. Do you think could be timing issue from the symptoms I described? If it was just EGR it wouldn't go in to limp mode would it? Cheers

[MinorMatt]

the epics have a habit of reminding you when the timing belt needs doing (every 50K by the way)

Its easy to check the timing with an 18mm spanner/socket a 13mm drill bit and a 9.5mm (it might be a 6mm on the lucas??) bit.

Behind the fuel filter is the crank sensor, this needs to be removed the bolt needs to be undone (will either be a 10mm headed bolt or a torx headed jobby) and it will then pull out.

using the blunt end of the 13mm drill, place it in the hole and gently push. Using the 18mm socket/spanner turn the engine over until the drill bit goes in (it should go all the way through the flywheel... you should be able to push it in at least 2" more than where it started, if not you have the wrong hole in the flywheel.

then remove the rubber bung in the timing case cover, you should be able to push the 9.5mm drill bit right into the pump (you could have a look with a torch to see if the holes line up!)

[dibs]

Thanks for that. Sounds like the best place to start.
Does it mean that I should ignore the readings from the Snap-on engine code reader? Any ideas of good place to use with the right reader up North? Cheers

[ake]

I would ignore the snap on readings, you need to find someone with a lucas laser 2000 to read the codes, try your local diesel specialist

[dibs]

Looks like I've made a bit of mistake getting a van with and EPIC system Not had the ECU read yet, but looking into it further might be better just changing straight to a Bosch system like so many people recommend. Would it just be a standard Bosch pump from say a 70ps 2.5? Or is there a special pump to use? I've been quoted £500 from South Manchester Diesels for a full switch over and set up with recon pump. Sound resonable. Any advice would be appreciated before I shell out!

ps. If it was just the timing causing my engine light problems wouldn't it be on all the time and not just occasionally?

[Jim Archer]

Get the codes read on the proper reader, post them up on here, and then decide when the guys in the know tell you what's actually wrong with it.

It might not cost you anything other than a bit of time to fix it.

Jim

[dibs]

Hi there. Finally got my Transit out after the snow grounded it for winter!
Anyway, I got the codes read this morning and got: 1174 Pump Cam Position Sensor and 1176 Pump Cam Calibration. Doesn't sound good I'm hoping I won't have to change the pump as the van drives great most of the time. Can anyone offer any suggestions to the next step? Would a blockage in the fuel supply cause these faults, or more likely to be sensor/faulty wiring?

[psv-hgv-flt]

Does anyone know where I can get my mk5 transit 2.5 turbo diesel with epic pump (100ps 4EC engine) system read in the Manchester area (cheap)? Just got the van and it goes great! On a run last weekend to Belgium the Engine Management Light came on 4 or 5 times and went in to limp mode. Luckily the system resets when I restart the engine so the drive wasn't too painful! I've had it read with a snap on reader (at two garages) which has the engine number on the system but reads 'no codes'. Is this because it needs a special reader for the system? Don't want to damage anything by driving to much further. The engine light stays on for 3 seconds after the engine is started. Any help would be appreciated.

emal me and have you got msn and web cam, got all the epic tech hear.

[dibs]

Thanks psv-hgv-flt for your offer. I've had the codes read now, so next step will be testing wiring etc...

For anyone looking for EPIC codes and explanations, I came across this pdf Epic DI engine management system service workbook. It's from LDV but for the Ford 100ps turbo diesel. Slightly strange link but it's here: http://www.giordanobenicchi.it/tecnica%20camper/EpicServiceManual.pdf It contains all the resistance values too. Not sure if they would be the same as it's LDV, maybe someone else would know?

[dibs]

Here is a pick of the Fuel Pump Wiring Loom. Looks like pin 19 (the top left one with the White/Blue wire at the back - please tell me if I'm wrong) has been pushed in a bit. Hopefully this could be the cause of my problem as I think pin 19 and 18 are the ones related to the Cam position sensor.

Has anyone got any advice as the best way to get this pin back to the right position? Don't want to be pilling at too many wires! Small screw driver? Tweezers?

Fingers crossed

[psv-hgv-flt]

a code reader would of picked out the loom break if it was that, not a great pic but they look ok to me. if crps has gone then it is easy to remove with pump on.

[dibs]

I've just got round to testing the circuits. The Cam ring sensor is reading a perfect 54 ohms, from pins 18 and 19 on the pump and from pins 6 and 18 on the ECU connector. However with the meter connected to the ECU connector a small wiggle of the White Blue wire on the pump connecter (19) breaks the circuit. Hurrah! I removed the pin from the plug very carefully! First taking out the brown locking piece and sure enough the pin was completely bent in. Having bent it back and replaced the meter reading is constantly 54 ohms even with wiggling.

I will post after running about a bit to see if the problem has been fixed. Hopefully this will do it, which would be good as every garage I have spoken to always comes out with 'It'll be your pump mate!'