Dons Tandem transporter Mk6 2005

[Trannygrandad]

DId you mount the Unwin track with through bolts and backup plates?

I have some thoughts of installing some two-position track on some of the side pillars - back of which are blind and was considering something like this:
http://rivetsonline.com/rivet-nuts-and- ... eries.html

Thoughts?

frank

what do you intending anchoring in the tracks, if it is for disability wheelchairs/scooters
I think your insurers would be uncomfortable if it were not an industry standard procedure that had been crash tested. I keep coming up against a brick wall when I ask for non standard fitting/ adaptation in the trade.

My intention is a cargo net that can be placed either directly behind the rear seats, retaining seating for five, or moving the net just behind the tumbled second row seats. Something like this ( http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Van-Trail ... /Cargo-Net ).
I would mount these ( http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-S ... ck-2-Piece) along the internal bracing along the sides, top, and floor to anchor the net. As those bracing "arches" are formed in a basic "U" shape, then the skin welded to it, the backside of those braces would be inaccessible to attach a traditional fastener - sheet metal screws would be wholly inadequate, but the blind threaded rivets, in theory, would work well.

Certainly, a net mounted like this would be superior to the built-in netting supplied in my BMW 5-series wagon, and far better than nothing at all.

In the US, cargo/passenger separation laws seems much more lax than in UK/Europe. Nearly all cargo vans here are sold without any bulkhead at all. Airport shuttle vans also have no separation between luggage and passengers. I understand, depending on the cargo laws of the locality or country, why an insurer would be unsure of approving anything not tested and certified. Part of my problem is finding anything designed to fit behind the second row of seats on my 2013.
frank

Interestingly, I have used those SS Rings mounted directly to unwin track floor & sidewall to fit a cargo net from my old Peugeot 306 before I scrapped it

[Trannygrandad]

So far on the to-do list
1- speed limiter removed by ford cost £90
2- Mats in cab replaced
3- Front pass bench seat replaced with single seat to allow passage into back also fitted seat turntable for front pass seat

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4- oil leaks in pistons on tail lift, reduced when hydraulic oil was found to be
contaminated with water & system flushed & refilled,. now works more rapidly & leaks less, but back up pump still caput.

One problem with a tail lift, when parking in street, often get back to vehicle to find someone has parked to close for the lift to deploy.
This can be overcome by parking far enough from the car in front, IF enough room, then you can pull forward to load, but motorbikes find that space quite usefull too.
So to overcome this I decided to install an Autochair hoist in the side door as back-up

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but unfortunately they went beyond the manufacturers tolerances for length of jib & the actuator motor burnt out.
Got that replaced, but when I tried operating with jib at proper reduced length there was not enough clearance to lift the chair in.
So nothing daunted I settled on a crane instead
Trying to find place to mount without fouling chassis members

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More on that to follow

[Trannygrandad]

so one problem with swinging wheelchairs in through the side doors is that they can catch on the seats opposite,
so investigated options and had a local specialist workshop fit some fold away seats instead these only take up about 10 ins
not only giving room to swing in chair & big scooter,
but also giving me room to pass down the bus when the large scooter & tandem are loaded, expensive but useful.

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[Trannygrandad]

Having located all the chassis members & drawn them on the floor I was able to work out where to bolt right through the floor to a plate underneath & where to bolt only through the mounting plate.
Not able to bolt through chassis members as distortion would weaken chassis & probably cause some misalignment.
So I ordered a steel plate 50 cm x 50 cm and 5mm thick, cut some 75mm x 5mm thick strip into mitred, strengthening edging pieces for underneath ( got some nice 0.9mm cutting discs for my angle grinder, cuts brilliantly being thin) as my ability to hold a welding rod sufficiently steady for a good weld has deteriorated,
I did the cutting, shaping, cleaning up & bolted the parts together ready for a local firm to do a nice tidy weld right around the edges.
I used some compact plywood to pack between the unwin tracks which were 5mm proud of the floor. I gave it all 2 coats of black hammerite, ordered a piece of 2mm aliminium chequer plate, cut it to shape & assembled it all together, making sure to put plenty of silicone sealer between the floor & spreader plates & between plates & washers & nuts to waterproof it all
Crane base mounted on floor mounting plate

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crane fitted in place, bought new on Ebay for £169 with back mast reprofiled to be upright instead of leaning backwards as this cleared the door post & gave more room across the van to swing the big scooter in
still plenty of margin as the crane is rated 2000lbs & the scooter weighs in at about 150kg

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the crane came with a hand winch mounted on the top Jib, which I removed as it would foul the top of the doorway & loose height to lift a large scooter if left on

Because of health issues, including Chronic Fatigue, I replaced it with a 3000lb pull electric radio control winch mounted on the side of the upright

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For security in transit the jib was secured to the side lining ply with Stainless steel eyes bolted to stainless steel plates fixed with 8 screws each plate. with strap between to secure end of jib.
not entirely convinced as to holding power if van were to roll over, may give that a bit more thought

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[Trannygrandad]

REVIEW OF TO-DO LIST


2005 Mk6 350
Like all 2nd hand vehicles there's always something needing attention
List of to-dos
1 Remove speed limiter 65 mph annoying & dangerous!!
1- DONE by Ford
2 replace cab rubber mat with something that is not a waterproof membrane
2- DONE by Self
3 replace twin front passenger seat with single one for ease of access for disabled
driver & passenger
3- part done could only get poor quality one at time, usable but needs better example
4 check hydraulic wheelchair lift for oil level as obvious leak observed
4- Strange since contaminated oil replaced works better, leaks less but back up hand pump still non working, bus as crane been fitted not so critical. still want to replace it with an underfloor tail lift, to give more room. takes up 30 inches accross back of bus
5 check battery needs was told it should have 2 batteries one for motor, 80 Ah, and
one for tail lift & passenger compartment lighting etc., But came with only one
5- DONE two new 85ah batteries fitted under drivers seat. relax!
6 get bodywork on 'lutonhead' seen to, as previous driver had tried to get under
too low an entry
6- awaiting suitable window at local garage, actually not too noticable
7 get additional anchor atatchments for Unwin tracking system, to secure wheelchair
& tandem
7- DONE

[/quote]

[Trannygrandad]

Crossed my mind about vehicle security, from previous experience, any visible mods on a tranny can attract the attention of undisirables.
My avatar van had twin petrol tanks & I fitted two fuel valves from atco lawmowers! & hid them out of sight. Plus trickle current through all fog & spot lights, linked to a voltage sensor alarm.
But on my present bus, if I fit a radio that is not keycoded,
& fit a hidden 12v cut off switch. I mean hidden as in the design, it wont even look like a switch.
Would I have any unforseen electric problems?
After all its usually the radio that needs attention when you have a new battery fitted
I guess a positive off valve in the diesel supply line could be a possible source of air leaks, or not?

[Trannygrandad]

I was concerned about safety when reversing, as I park in a cul-de-sac carpark, have to drive in so as to be able to utilise the tail lift.
& have to reverse out about 80 ft
There is a public footpath beside my space, used by mothers & primary school children. & the car park can have youngsters in it at any time.
In winter it can be dimpsy at school out time
So one of the first jobs was to get a new reversing beeper fitted.
was not happy at the amount of light that the standard reverse lights gave,
yes they indicate you are in reverse gear,
but dont really illuminate enough for safe reversing in the dark,
so I bought a pair of these, 27w flood

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291846559834? ... EBIDX%3AIT

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The dark spot now is along side the van, & being a LWB tight maneuvering at the entrance when the place is full & cars park on the corner, needs lights
so I may fit two lights under the floor in front of the back axle,
not quite so bright as the roof ones

[Trannygrandad]

Fitting the roof lights I drilled through above the door opening & found the main steel section that gives structural strength to the back of the van, quite thick box section, 3mm? or 4mm thick? 75mm square?
with a hi top there otherwise could be twisting movement in the body,
especially with a minibus with full length windows