Kristianskaffe's MK7, 2.4 TDCI, RWD

[Kristianskaffe]

They're Shite you need Ford genuine denso ones and they'll be over 200gbp

Put the old valves on or buy new from Ford.

I think I just agree on that
Are there genuine fore sale on ebay, or should I only go with parts from a Ford dealer?

[Kristianskaffe]

Hate to say but 27years of working on heavy machinery that unless you can get system critical parts (like valves, solenoids) direct from a manufacturer (ie. Bosch, danfos, rexroth) or from OEM (ie. Ford, Merc, Cat) then it is a gamble you'll get something that looks the same but ain't the same I'm afraid.
There's every chance a cheep version will work but high chance it won't work properly.

As loot said, swap back and re check is only way to find out.
Just make sure you've got the SCV sitting properly too.
Try swapping out the PRV first since it's easiest to get to and try the learns. If that's still not good then do the SCV.

...Continue reading.

Was planning exactly that... But I have a bad feeling, that I´m not that lucky it´s only the PRV But def. trying that first..
It only took 10 minutes that part.. SCV sitting properly?

[Airthies]

I'd only go for Ford. If you get to know the parts guy and have some "chat/banter" with them you might get a bit more discount but not a huge amount on those items.

click HERE for more info.

[Airthies]

I had a hassle getting the oring to sit when putting the valve in first time and nearly crushed it cos I wasn't paying attention. But if you've had it running it should be in Ok?

click HERE for more info.

[Kristianskaffe]

I had a hassle getting the oring to sit when putting the valve in first time and nearly crushed it cos I wasn't paying attention. But if you've had it running it should be in Ok?

click HERE for more info.

yea, it actually sounds really fine, when running... I´ll try to fix it in the morning.. I hope to be left why only the turbo being stuck thing, because that´s really annoying... Oh yeah, I suddenly allso lost communikations with the headunit.. Showed up as a fault.. so now that´s not working either... strange, because I did not touch it..

[Kristianskaffe]

Yea... Why should it be easy... I forgot the parts at my mechanic... So I now have 120 km. to go each way

Sigh..

[Kristianskaffe]

Ok boys...

For those of you, that don´t bother reading tons of stuff... Learns are now succesfully done!
But holy c*ap it has brought me an alternative Easter holiday... the mrs. is not happy...

I could not get the van to start, no matter what I did! I could get it started yesterday... but not today.. So a bit sad, I had to go get the parts at my mechanic, easy 3 hours lost there.
Back at my parking lot I started of by smashing my thump, as I tried to get the PRV off... I managed to get it off and put back the old one. I really thought it was tightend enough as the pump learn was a succes in the first run! Yay!
So on to injectors, and of course I had to get the Vectra as it needed power.. (why does it need so much power?) and all went well until 4. learning point where I had diesel all over the engine
Was not too happy, but figured I did not tighten the PRV and the other little thing, but it would not stop... So had to take everything off, clean everything and then I heated the little copper washer and gave it a drop of liquid gasket magic... and guess what... it did it... Holy cow, I got the injector learn complete!! YES

I´m really happy and I def. can hear, that it is much smoother now.

So where does it leave me... I def. can feel a smoother drive, still I get that turbo boost thing. I was not expecting it to go away, but I hoped
So when driving with the MAF sensor disconnected, it now drives way better, much more torque and it does not die just after the turbo kicks in. Now I feel it drives as it should... or close. No lights on, no black smoke

So now I´m really ready for that last part... well I got one more.. as I mentioned, the head unit is not working now... I really did not fiddle around with any wires, so I don´t understand it... maybe a fuse, but a some point yesterday I saw an error code and a text saying "communications lost with unit" or something.. Any thoughts on that?

So back to the turbo thing... it still says that it is stuck... clearly it is not!
I have checked the wires earlier, but only as far as my multimeter said "beep" ... and that´s about it.

I know I have to get it to say it is not stuck, but I´m a bit confused on how to do that...Is it the time to give it over to a pro, or will you help me? I´m all ears and will try any wild ideas and suggestions I have acces to the 2.2 Transit at the Breaker but it does not run...

Have a nive evening and thank you so much so far!

[Kristianskaffe]

double post

[loot]

You've replaced the turbo/maf/map/egr and if done correctly which i think you have them it is safe to think that 99% they are working (be very unlucky if any were faulty but not impossible, when swapped for the old ones i think if either the old or new were faulty then you'd see a difference in function).


So, you need to test the turbo actuator on another 140ps transit?
You need to test the pcm on another 140ps 2.4 transit.

You could try and get the engine wiring loom off the scrap transit if it is the same spec as yours? Be very unlucky for them both to have failed.

Nothing but drastic action required now.

And stop buying or doing things without asking!

[Kristianskaffe]

You've replaced the turbo/maf/map/egr and if done correctly which i think you have them it is safe to think that 99% they are working (be very unlucky if any were faulty but not impossible, when swapped for the old ones i think if either the old or new were faulty then you'd see a difference in function).

ye, I also think I got that part right by now

So, you need to test the turbo actuator on another 140ps transit?

Well, that´s going to be a bit harder... I don´t know how to do that. Only thing at hand is the actuator in the scrap 2.2.
But viewing my older posts, as I also remember, the problem was there from the very beginning. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=177410
even before I ordered the refurbished turbo and actuator.
I honestly don´t think a new actuator is going to solve it.

You need to test the pcm on another 140ps 2.4 transit.

As mentioned above I do not have another 140 ps Transit at hand and I don´t know how to get that... the only way as I see it, is by going to Ford for that... But as they charge around 100 pounds an hour, things can get pricy...fast.

I guess this is the unithttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MK7-Ford-Tran ... SwL7VWhRy7 (I´M NOT BUYING IT YET!!)
Do you have any previous experience with the PCM gone bad? I guess it´s not possible to tell if it´s just rubbish all of a sudden?
So I´m only thinking out loud now... calm down ... but I´m thinking, that I´m going to get ripped off at the dealer and maybe get all sorts of suggestions... and if they were to sell me a replacement PCM, I don´t think it will be around 100-120 pounds ... So by having the IDS, can it somehow be done by me, replacing that is, if I´m not able to get another one to test with.

I can read that all the sellers are saying: "This ECU will need reset, unlocked and coded to your vehicle by a qualified auto electrician using correct software and equipment" Is the IDS capable of this?

You could try and get the engine wiring loom off the scrap transit if it is the same spec as yours? Be very unlucky for them both to have failed.

Yeah, I have acces if needed..

Nothing but drastic action required now.

Ehh?

And stop buying or doing things without asking!

I will.. If you will continue to answer me blabblering on with all sorts of things, I promise

[Airthies]

Nothing but drastic action required now.

Ehh?
You've done some drastic work so far it can only get more so the further you go......

And stop buying or doing things without asking!

I will.. If you will continue to answer me blabblering on with all sorts of things, I promise [/quote]
We're all here to help. Even if some of us at laying in a tent on a Scottish hilside

To break it down with your turbo fault it comes to the following starting with the most likely:
Physically seized part in the turbo- you've changed that and confirmed that's working?

The wiring between the turbo controller and PCM- That's bèn check and confirmed that all wires are ok?!

The electronic unit in the turbo has a fault and been swapped for another, preferably one known as good?!

The PCM is at fault as it fails to read the signals from the turbo unit?!

Or something else............ but........we don't known at!


click HERE for more info.

[Kristianskaffe]

Nothing but drastic action required now.

Ehh?
You've done some drastic work so far it can only get more so the further you go......

And stop buying or doing things without asking!

I will.. If you will continue to answer me blabblering on with all sorts of things, I promise

We're all here to help. Even if some of us at laying in a tent on a Scottish hilside

To break it down with your turbo fault it comes to the following starting with the most likely:
Physically seized part in the turbo- you've changed that and confirmed that's working?

The wiring between the turbo controller and PCM- That's bèn check and confirmed that all wires are ok?!

The electronic unit in the turbo has a fault and been swapped for another, preferably one known as good?!

The PCM is at fault as it fails to read the signals from the turbo unit?!

Or something else............ but........we don't known at!


click HERE for more info.[/quote]

Tent! At this time a year?

Well the turbo and actuator has been replaced. The actuator looks like it's completely new, but it's a refurbished unit, so I don't know. Turbo too.. It came with a note stating it has been tested for 12 min. with succes. I have no reason to believe otherwise.
As the test says, it is stuck mechanical. I can however, take the rod off the actuator and move the rod up and down very easily.
Watching the rod when the engine is running it does some small clicks where the actuator moves the rod about 2-3 mm. and that's it..
As I said, it moves really easy by hand (not connected to the actuator)

I have tested the wires, as far as the multimeter beeps when connecting it to the connection at the turbo and the correct pin by the PCM. I don't know if I can to some other tests? I remember something about Ohms

Don't know if the PCM is faulty.. Or at a fault.

[loot]

Ids is what ford use so you can do anything you need to.

You can reprogram a pcm, perhaps borrow a pcm to try? You'll need info on new module installation with that tho.

Wiring loom, compare the label with yours before changing them over although if the donor has the vnt then i can't see a problem as long as it was euro 4 etc.

[Kristianskaffe]

Ids is what ford use so you can do anything you need to.

You can reprogram a pcm, perhaps borrow a pcm to try? You'll need info on new module installation with that tho.

Wiring loom, compare the label with yours before changing them over although if the donor has the vnt then i can't see a problem as long as it was euro 4 etc.

Can I take the one from the 2.2 at the breaker or does it have to be exactly the same from a 2.4 RWD?

I don't quite understand the programming. If something is wrong with mine, then won't I maybe transfer that bit too? Or is it because some of the things are hard coded in to the PCM (then I can't use the one from the 2.2. I guess)

[loot]

As long as it is the same number pcm you can use it ie. Dcu101 euro 4 transit pcm.

You are most likely looking at a hard fault on your pcm if it is failing to see the turbo. Bit the only way to prove this is to probe the connections or swap things over, it is better to try things rather than systematically purchase replacements.

If the scrap yard are happy for you to borrow the pcm or sell it cheap enough then it's upto you.

There is a chance you could send faulty software across but I've never done it.
Is be more inclined to think that the engine bay loom is faulty over the pcm but how can we know, you have to decide what to do.