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V4 Cologne: Balance shaft bearings

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V4 Cologne: Balance shaft bearings

Postby FordMk1Transit » Thu Nov 09, 2017 4:17 pm

Hi all,

Working on another V4 cologne at the moment; one with a stripped balance shaft gear.. So I'll be replacing the balance shaft bearings. Since the balance shaft needs to be removed from the rear of the engine, this is an engine out job.

I've now pulled the engine plus block. Then I removed gearbox + bellhousing and after that the clutch and flywheel. Don't forget to drain oil from engine+box first.

Also removed the front cover and took the remains of the balance shaft gear off (didn't need a puller). After this you can gently tap out the balance shaft from the front, I've used a soft wooden hammer. There's a really big plug at the rear that looks like a freeze plug, by tapping the shaft from the front this plug will be pushed out without damaging it.

After removal of the balance shaft I found out that the front bearing was completely missing (found it bent up in the sump a bit later) and the rear bearing was partially ripped up but mostly still in place.. Als the front bearingsurface on the balance shaft showed a "lip", seems like it got damaged.

Luckily I have a good 2nd hand balance shaft ready to put in.

Now some questions:
1- How to check best if the engine block got damaged at the front bearing area?
2- I have 1 brand new bearing (has got "Ford - 1 STD" written on it) and 2 used bearings that came with the used balance shaft. What would you do: use the new one at the front/rear or use the 2 used bearings that are run-in by the shaft?
3- How do I put the balance shaft bearings in the block? Do I put them in the freezer and then gently tap them in?
4- Do I aim the little "oil channel" in the bearing to the outsides of the engine?

Thanks! :-)
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V4 Cologne: Balance shaft bearings

Postby bulls in transit » Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:05 pm

Can’t upload photo of manual page,so here’s text:-
Attention! Balance shaft and engine block are for reasons of matching fit provided with color spots,with the spots located on the counterweight of the balance shaft and on the centre strut of the block.Make sure colors match installation(eg red-red,blue-blue,yellow to yellow).
The balance shaft of a 1.7 engine is additionally marked with a green spot.Make absoulutley certain that this shaft is exclusively installed in the 1.7 engine.
9.Apply sealing compound to the outer rim surface of the balance shaft cover cap.With it’s flat side pointing outward,drive the cover cap into the cylinder block until fully home.
Think the rest you’ve covered with camshaft change on last van.
There’s no mention of freezing,but if it makes it easier hey ho,manual says gentle tap fit,soft mallet.

Have read on Saab forums that the killer of balance shaft bearings and wheel are overtightened fan belts,deflection on belt should be 15mm min mid point alternator/fan pulley.
Manual has no mention of bearing fit(grooves).

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Re: V4 Cologne: Balance shaft bearings

Postby FordMk1Transit » Thu Nov 23, 2017 4:31 pm

Thanks Bulls, sorry for the late reply. Haven't been working on the engine for a while, hope to find some time to continue tomorrow.

Short update in the meantime:

There's two sizes balance shaft bearings; a small one (front) and a slightly larger one (rear of engine), so I didn't have to choose where to put the new one I had.
The bearings could indeed be tapped in, without the need of putting them in the freezer first. Used a large socket from a "truck-socket set" to help whilst I gently tapped in a clockwise rotation. Oiled up the balance shaft and bearings and pushed it back in. Balance shaft rotates well, luckily no damage from the worn bearing up front.

Oil channels needed to point outwards (checked multiple pictures via Google, they were all mounted like this).

I sealed the big "freeze plug" at the rear with a thin bead of silicone sealer, tapped the plug back home and wiped away any excess sealer. Don't really like the silicone stuff inside an engine but sometimes there's no better option.

I also think the balance shaft bearing + gear went because of the fan-belt being too tight. On the other engine I did a while ago I put the fanbelt on as loose as I could. Every now and then I can hear a little squick at startup, but it feels safer this way.

Will update when I finish the engine and have put it back in the van.
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