Timing belt

[marcodelhierro]

Hello everyone, I am back here after few years, back then I asked for an advice on swapping a 94 banana engine for a 99 LDV banana engine in 2010. The engine has since made some 50000 kms / 35000mls and I thought it's about time for the timing belt change, I learned it is quite easy job to do so I am planning to do it myself. I have a few questions though.
First, the belt itself, which brand name would you recommend, or do I go for the original ford one?
Second, many insist on changing the tensioner as well, the engine has only 120000 kms/ ~ 80000mls on in, I dont think the mechanic changed the tensioner as well when the engine was fitted in, he did put a new belt back then, 50000kms ago. At 120000kms, do you thing it's necessary to change the tensioner as well?
Third, the water pump, same question, at 120000kms do ypu see it as necessary to swap it? I would rather not touch a thing that works alright...

And I would also like to share my experience with power steering rack reconditioning and encourage people to try and do it themselves, especially if the mechanic would quote you 400-500 euros (Nerja, Andalucia, Spain) like the one i talked to did, for a reconditioned rack + VAT + work. Mine had a sudden bad leak, the hydraulic oil was all gone out on the ground in minutes. It was on the right hand side of the rack (on a LHD vehicle) and after seeing few videos and gathering sufficient info I was quite confident that it was only one of the seals, the one that is easier to swap, i.e. the one at the end of the pressure chamber (on RHD it would be the one on the left), not the one close to the steering column which is much more dificult to extract, one would need a special tool to do that. I ordered the repair kit from transitcenter web page, took the steering rack off the van and dismantled the rack using just common set of tools. The hardest part was to undo the tie rods, 38mm hexagonal "bolt", in the end I had to take it to a garage and the man had it off the rack in couple of minutes using a suitable tool. I only changed one of seal, which effectively was visibly damaged together with its plastic washer and the plastic guide. Plus I also changed the adjacent rubber seal. Put everything back together, mounted the rack, put new hydraulic oil in, start the engine and all seems working just fine, better than before I would say as there was a slight play before on the steering wheel, now it feels better, no play. The power steering took something like 1.25 lts of oil, I recommend to fill the steering deposit to the brim before you start the engine, not to the max mark like many say, because when you start the engine the level drops below the intake tube immediatelly, which is logical, and sucks air in, so you'll have suspended air in the oil immediately, which is not a big deal, it will clear up eventually, but better avoid it. You will probably have to top up after the oil floods the steering rack.
So instead of +-450 euros, the fix cost me ~50, and I learned something new about my van as well!

Greeting to all you transit fans!

[Aardvark]

Hi, and welcome back to the forum.
I would suggest you go for a Gates timing belt and tensioner. They are often sold together as a kit and are usually sensibly priced on ebay. I don't bother with changing a water pump when I do a belt. If there are no issues with the pump such as leaking or suspected failure there seems little point. There is a how-to on here somewhere about doing a cam belt and the first time you do it you may find a few bolts that don't want to undo but once you have managed to install the belt, I always dab any suspect bolt threads with a little Copaslip to make sure the threads never give trouble again.

Thanks for the info on a steering rack reseal. I'm sure it will be helpful for other members.

[INTRANSIT]

Good how to here if you need it.
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=56801

[gotgcoalman]

If you've not done 1 before allow a weekend.
Seized bolts and looking for correct tools

next change will be a leisurly morning to do.

just a tip on belt kit.
try to get 1 with the older type spring loaded tensioner.

[vanfox]

My tip, 1. Clean ALL the crap out of the belt cover bolt heads before trying to remove them or the bit will slip and strip.
My tip, 2. Pin the camshaft first then you should have the correct flywheel hole in position.
My tip, 3. Don't turn the engine backwards on the crank pulley nut, it holds the oil pump drive by friction only, no key, loosen it and no oil pump drive.

[rick blue]

Hi, and welcome back to the forum.
I would suggest you go for a Gates timing belt and tensioner. They are often sold together as a kit and are usually sensibly priced on ebay. I don't bother with changing a water pump when I do a belt. If there are no issues with the pump such as leaking or suspected failure there seems little point. There is a how-to on here somewhere about doing a cam belt and the first time you do it you may find a few bolts that don't want to undo but once you have managed to install the belt, I always dab any suspect bolt threads with a little Copaslip to make sure the threads never give trouble again.

Thanks for the info on a steering rack reseal. I'm sure it will be helpful for other members.

Hi guys, some very useful info on here. I'm about to replace my timing belt on my Transit Diesel. Can some one give me a part no for the gates replacement timing belt or any good equivelent. Gates can only help me out if I quote them a part no. My beast is a 1995-2000, Series 150L, 2.5L Diesel T (85PS) Any help is always appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[marcodelhierro]

Hello again, and thanks for your valuable advice!
The cambelt guide is priceless!
I have the front stripped down already, the three pins in place, and checked the old belt before ordering a new one - it is a Ford original with automatic tensioner.
I have ordered Gates with auto tensioner.
I wonder why many people prefer the old-style manual tensioner? The automatic seems easier to install, according to the Gates installation guide...

[marcodelhierro]

Hi, and welcome back to the forum.
I would suggest you go for a Gates timing belt and tensioner. They are often sold together as a kit and are usually sensibly priced on ebay. I don't bother with changing a water pump when I do a belt. If there are no issues with the pump such as leaking or suspected failure there seems little point. There is a how-to on here somewhere about doing a cam belt and the first time you do it you may find a few bolts that don't want to undo but once you have managed to install the belt, I always dab any suspect bolt threads with a little Copaslip to make sure the threads never give trouble again.

Thanks for the info on a steering rack reseal. I'm sure it will be helpful for other members.

Hi guys, some very useful info on here. I'm about to replace my timing belt on my Transit Diesel. Can some one give me a part no for the gates replacement timing belt or any good equivelent. Gates can only help me out if I quote them a part no. My beast is a 1995-2000, Series 150L, 2.5L Diesel T (85PS) Any help is always appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I have ordered Gates part number K015572X2, 130 teeth, 27.6mm wide.
K015572X1 seems to be an equivalent, they both filgure in the Gates installation instructions.

[marcodelhierro]

Hi, and welcome back to the forum.
I would suggest you go for a Gates timing belt and tensioner. They are often sold together as a kit and are usually sensibly priced on ebay. I don't bother with changing a water pump when I do a belt. If there are no issues with the pump such as leaking or suspected failure there seems little point. There is a how-to on here somewhere about doing a cam belt and the first time you do it you may find a few bolts that don't want to undo but once you have managed to install the belt, I always dab any suspect bolt threads with a little Copaslip to make sure the threads never give trouble again.

Thanks for the info on a steering rack reseal. I'm sure it will be helpful for other members.

Hi guys, some very useful info on here. I'm about to replace my timing belt on my Transit Diesel. Can some one give me a part no for the gates replacement timing belt or any good equivelent. Gates can only help me out if I quote them a part no. My beast is a 1995-2000, Series 150L, 2.5L Diesel T (85PS) Any help is always appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Sorry, I mistyped the Gates part numbers, they are K015571XS and K015572XS respectively.

[gotgcoalman]

Old type tensioner is the spring loaded 1.
been fitted to all the Di's i've changed belts on.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=63476

[marcodelhierro]

One more thing, the Gates kit installation guide states that in order to remove the belt first to slacken the injection pulp pulley bolts which sound reasonable, and upon installing the new one first to install the tensioner and only hand tighten its bolt then lock the injection pump pulley bolts and finally lock the tensioner bolt fully. I am no expert, I do this for the first time but I think it does make a lot of sense - one does not have to force the belt/tensioner to put it in place, as the guide above mentioned shows, and it maybe also helps to have the belt properly seated...
The Gates guide also states the correct torques for the IP pulley bolts and the tensioner bolt, 25Nm and 45Nm respectively.
My question is, is it absolutely necessary to tighten the bolts using the torque ratchet for the correct torque, as I don't have one?

[gotgcoalman]

Normally I leave the pump pully bolts alone.
Slack on the tensioner allows removal and re installing of the new belt.

IF after replacing the belt you feel the van isn't right then use the bolts on the pump
to slightly advance/retard the timing.

Normally.
Van is ok.
Pin pulleys.
replace belt.
van ok.

25-45nm is "wrist tight" holding the ratchet end.

[Mk5swbhighroof]

Normally I leave the pump pully bolts alone.
Slack on the tensioner allows removal and re installing of the new belt.

IF after replacing the belt you feel the van isn't right then use the bolts on the pump
to slightly advance/retard the timing.

Normally.
Van is ok.
Pin pulleys.
replace belt.
van ok.

25-45nm is "wrist tight" holding the ratchet end.

[gotgcoalman]

Normally I leave the pump pully bolts alone.
Slack on the tensioner allows removal and re installing of the new belt.

IF after replacing the belt you feel the van isn't right then use the bolts on the pump
to slightly advance/retard the timing.

Normally.
Van is ok.
Pin pulleys.
replace belt.
van ok.

25-45nm is "wrist tight" holding the ratchet end.

you get a feel when tighting bolts after youv'e done it a few times

[marcodelhierro]

Yea, that´s right, I´ve tightened a few bolt myself , but with the pulleys I was not so sure, thought it might be important to have the exact torque... I guess I´m overthinking it a bit too much while still waiting for the belt to come.
Thanks for the comments once again.