Fitting cruise control to 2.0dohc

[sportscott]

My next job is to fit a Waeco magic speed MS50 into my Van, been having a look around and think I've found the best place to mount the servo, I have found a capped off vacuum take off but the hose supplied is a little bit too short. The clutch magnet sensor should'nt be too difficult to mount, have an idea to fix the bracket to the fuse box mounting but when I take some pictures you will see what I mean. I'm thinking of drilling and tapping the throttle cable bracket and use a cable adjuster from a bicycle brake, if not possible to set up as in the instructions
Being a bit duff am confused by the brown/white needs to be connected to a continuos fused 12v plus.
I think I will connect the power supply Orange to the power supply to the radio as this comes live when the ignition is on, and if the brown/white is what I think will connect this to the cigarette lighter,interior lights which is live all the time.
I need this as on my frequent long drives get pain in my knee and hip from being on the accelerator all day and the speeding fines
I am going to change my instrument panel for one with a tacho, the speedo is on a cable, which I have but need to make or visit the scrappy for a bracket that holds it in the gearbox, I read another post where he said he popped out the welch plug and fitted a new seal. What is the seal, an O ring maybe ?
And another question is how do you disconnect the speedo cable from the back of the instrument panel ? I just tried to see if it fitted and just popped straight on but is a bugger to get off and don't want to break it

[sportscott]

Making some progress with the magic speed controller, fitted the throttle cable, I welded a nut onto the original bracket and used a bike brake adjuster, needed to cut some of the inner shroud off the original cable as this was fouling the coupling block. The clutch switch mounted, used the original bit of bracket you get in the kit but cut it and welded the way I needed it and fixed on the fuse box bracket. The speed sensor mounted and the magnet on the drive shaft, only needed to drill one hole for that, still need to cut of the excess and stiffen it up a, which will do by welding in a piece diagonally. Now only need to connect up the wiring and see if it works. Managed to get the speedo cable off the instrument panel, you need to push hard on the white plastic piece sideways, Would love to use them but can't see a hole for it to exit in my bulkhead so may do that at a later date.

[sportscott]

Got it finished today and after a few small problems, on the first test drive my back left brake locked on solid. Thought it might be something to do with the Vacuum set up or the hand brake cable seized on. Eventually had to heat up around the bleed nipple to be able to turn it and let the pressure off. The same happened on the second test run, so got home and bled the brake and now it seems ok, going to enlist some help and bleed all round but strange that it should happen out of the blue. After the first test run the light on the module of the MS50 was blinking really fast so consulted the manual and it says if that if that is happening to add more magnets to the drive shaft, but it doesn't say how so placed them evenly around the shaft all three. Stiffened up the bracket and tried again. Same blinking light so back to the manual and it says to cut a black wire loop on the module to change the impulse signal, which I did and it is working as it should. Only went on a short test drive and the road is fairly hilly but it was working as it should, thinking about it could have probably used the original sensor on the gearbox especially if this will become redundant if I fit a speedo on a cable but had already set up the magnets on the drive shaft, and couldn't find the wiring diagram and couldn't be bothered taking a look with the multimeter. but it must have one permanently live wire and one intermittant for impulse signal. I look forward to taking it on a long drive now
Found the grommet and hole in the bulkhead, it's behind the top of the brake servo and bottom of the wiper motor and directly behind a wiring loom, not easy but the grommet on the speedo linkage goes in from the inside, I have a spare gearbox here that I can use to rig up some sort of bracket to hold the cable in the gearbox that should make things easier as can do it in comfort on the bench so maybe I'll get my new clocks in.
I stuck the module on the underside of the dashboard above the insrunent panel with some very good double sided sticky tape

[sportscott]

The reason why the brake came on was because I had the Vacuum pipe for the MS50 connected to the wrong pipe, took it for a longer drive and all the brakes locked up, pulled off all the vacuum pipes to release the vacuum in the servo and they all released. So that's a point to watch out for

[sportscott]

I've tried to take vacuum from everywhere and get the same problem all the time, the brakes lock up and the only way to release them is to pull the vacuum pipe out of the servo. The only pipe I haven't tried to take vacuum from is to the servo itself as it's a hard pipe and not so easy to splice in but it's probably the one I need.

[sportscott]

My problem was with the brake servo itself, nothing to do with the cruise control at all, just decided to throw the towel in at the time I was messing with the Vacuum, to throw me off the scent swapped out the servo and taking off vacuum from the capped connection that I originally used and it's working like a dream, and so simple. And while I had the servo off had access to the speedo cable grommet, put some technical vaseline on the new grommet and it popped straight in. So now have my new clocks with rev counter, the speedo is running too fast but can live with that for now

[sportscott]

incidently the seal for the gearbox where the pinion comes out is just an ordinary oil seal 7x16x7 is what I used the height is not so important, I paid about 80p for it here in Poland at the hydraulic shop, made by Cortano, top quality from USA. In fact I can buy almost any seal I want if I know the size at a fraction of the cost if you go to a Motor factors, the same with bearings, only need to know the size.

[halla]

Hi,
Got to say brilliant, if I get mine going again and Welded up I might go for this myself.
I have a berlingo and an old Smart car both have cruise control options. I'm so used to cruise with my merc, it the bees knees,good luck with your project.
Ian

[sportscott]

I have had my eye on these for years and eventually went for it. Just done 1100km trip with it and used it all the way. It wouldn't work above 109kmh an hour for the first 500km then only later would it work faster , strange but true. I am not mentally drained like normal after being on the accelerator all day.Well worth the money and easy.

[halla]

How are things going. Have you noticed better mpg. I prefer driving with cruise control, it smooths out my driving. Taking your foot of the pedal and stretching out.
Best
Ian

[sportscott]

How are things going. Have you noticed better mpg. I prefer driving with cruise control, it smooths out my driving. Taking your foot of the pedal and stretching out.
Best
Ian

It's going good, The mpg has improved a little bit but only sometimes, after fitting drove the Van from Poland, to Holland, then on to Norway and kept my eye on the consumption as am in a bit of a discussion as to the mpg of the 2.0 dohc. My conclusion is it's a Gas Hog The saving comes from the ability to drive a constant speed, which I did over long distances, drove at 110kmh, 120 kmh, and 100kmh and on the Poland to Holland used around 189 litres average 17,2 litres per 100 driving at 110 and 120 kmh and not faster, which is a saving of 30 litres over normal average but some sections of the drive from halfway from Dresden to Kassel and on to Dortmund used more fuel than normal using the Cruise Control over the hills. For me the saving is on the speeding fines or now the lack of and of course the Mental drain of sub-conscientiously controlling the accelerator has now been lifted and don't feel so battered as before on a long drive. I am completely happy with it and it's not expensive and extremely easy to fit and does what it says on the box.

[halla]

Sounds all good. That pedal does get heavy.
In the early days of my vialle system, lpg was 28p a litre, I,d volunteer to drive anywhere now it's hitting 60p plus.

You must have your lpg filling stations worked out, for your journeys. I remember Luxembourg was the cheapest.

At the end of the day, thank your lucky stars your not having to use the petrol. I nearly cried when that happened!!
all the best

Ian

[sportscott]

The cheapest lpg is Poland. around 50 euro cents a litre, Germany was around 55 cents but you need to drive off the autobahn but gas is readily available now in even some of the villages. Was greeted by 78 cents a litre at Venlo on the motorway but tanked up in Germany as new Holland was expensive, off motorway price was around 60 ish cents. Here in Norway, it's 8.22 nok a litre 82 pence or 90 euro cents, I tanked full with Petrol in Poland, for 91 cents a litre, Petrol in Norway fluctuates depending what day you buy it Sunday and Monday the cheapest from 14 nok to over 16 nok on a saturday so here in Norway it's only just cheaper to drive than petrol and I have a 40km round trip to get it. I have two Vialle tanks so tank both but need to disconnect and reconnect them. Good thing is have a spare pump should one break down

[halla]

My vialle tank is a 100 litre one. It's full with about 80 litres. I'll be getting rid. If your planning on coming over, I could
Wrap it up and keep it on the side of the drive. The problems I had with vialle were leaking injectors/inlet manifold not fitting snugly. I did have some trapped wires in the manifold, early on.

The only good time was 2000 miles of perfect driving after spending 350 quid on a ford cat.

I would have repaired the system but at near 100 quid a purple injector, I thought better of it. The inlet manifolds are trouble. Best way to get them of is to take the engine out.

The tanks are very heavy, I thought I'd like to see how things went without the extra weight. The wickford lpg system is a very similar setup, but has a smaller tank 50 litres and centred behind the seats.

Ian

[sportscott]

Thanks for the offer but I don't think I'll be back in the UK any time soon, left about 26 years ago and haven't been back once
The Injectors are difficult to get to that's a fact but you don't need to take the engine out just the inlet manifold. Needed to change my computer and looms and went to all the bother of taking the power steering pump out to get some room to get at them, then it was a case of using a mirror, a stick, some bailing twine and the rubber wrist trick. Seen this time when I tidied my van it was probably easier and quicker to take the radiator out to get at them. I can get new injectors in Poland for 63,63 pounds, http://allegro.pl/wtryskiwacz-wtrysk-vi ... 04106.html still a lot of money as a rebuild kit costs almost nothing and is only o rings. I am still using my old orange injectors as had an earlier mark vialle system but burned the computer out when I connected the jumps leads wrong in the dark. You can get the tank capacity up by adjusting the fuel gauge sensor, illegal and they say it's not good for the pump oil but if you drive like I do then it won't be too full for long. A fifty liter tank has a fill capacity of 40 litres not counting the displacement of the pump, that would be useless for me, I can tank 110 litres with two tanks and I haven't fiddled with them, one 68 litres toroidal fill capacity 56l. and a 70 litre cylindrical that will take 52l can get more in the toroidal tank because used a pump from a 50l tank and dropped it down 2cm but didn't adjust the length of the fuel sensor.
Shame you only got 2000 miles perfect driving but don't think it had anything to do with the cat as it's downstream from the lambasonde. My original cat choked itself to death, I suspect now it was a broken ht lead that was causing it to misfire and the original cats have some kind of wadding in them that came loose. I even changed the coils because thought it was a broken coil causing the misfire on one cylinder but now know it fires on two cylinders at once, wasted spark principle, and I dumped the coils I took out