Bosch VE pump timing help please?

[Chug]

I had the IP main shaft seal start leaking so I fitted a new one but the pump shaft slipped round on the pulley when undoing the main nut, even though the pump shaft was locked!

So I'm gonna have to get the dti out tomorrow and start from scratch.

A question though:
When the locking pins are in the flywheel and camshaft do I then set the injection pump to 0.68mm lock the pump shaft and fit the pulley back on centering it on the slots and the locking pin, or do I fit it turned fully clockwise, or anticlockwise on the slots with the four 13mm bolts?

[cherniy_chack]

If the width of the slots is sufficient to correctly set the initial angle of injection, why remove the hub of the pulley from the shaft?
If the width of the slots is not enough, then you can turn the pulley one tooth in the desired direction and check the starting angle of injection.
If after changing the pulley and setting the initial angle of injection it will be possible to turn the pulley in both directions, then why remove the pulley hub from the shaft?
Competent mechanics say that setting the start of the injection on the dial gauge is correct only for the new engine and the new injection pump.
In other cases, it will be more appropriate to set the initial injection angle based on the results of the cold start of the motor, the noise of the warmed-up engine during operation, engine thrust and fuel consumption

[Chug]

I had to remove the hub to change the leaking drive seal, but when I was undoing the main nut just before it came loose the pump driveshaft moved in the hub so I lost the setting.

With the pump driveshaft locked at 0.68mm and the hub refitted with the locking pin in its hole, I think the pulley slots should be set central when refitted to the hub to allow for adjustment either way,, but I just wanted to check with folks here.

[MinorMatt]

The toothed pulley is tightened wherever it sits after the tensioner has taken up the slack in the cambelt...

[Jim Archer]

As above, the 0.68mm setting is for the hub position on the taper, the pulley goes where ever the belt lets it.

Check you have No1 cylinder on pump distributor,
fit the hub gently on the taper,
turn to fit pin,
nip up nut to still allow shaft to turn within hub,
rotate pump shaft to give 0.68mm BTDC,
check fit of pin,
gently tap hub onto taper to retain,
mark relative positions to check alignment when nut torqued,
do up nut.
Rotate a few full turns and check lift when pin locates.

The hub must be relative to the pump, the pulley slots allow for tolerance in belt, pump mounting, etc.

Jim

[Chug]

Thanks folks,

I set it all up this morning to 0.68mm, locked the pump shaft, refitted the hub and pulley and cambelt, it tookages bleeding so I ran it straight from a fuel can under the bonnet and it fired up eventually.

Starts on the button but will not rev after the initial throttle press, it revs up then dies and struggles for fuel, and there is no fuel coming out of the return!

I know it should flow loads of fuel down the return and I've had a problem with a return restrictor in the past so I fitted another and I got a dribble of fuel but it wont rev still, but at least it starts ok.

Stopped for lunch now and going back for another fiddle soon, wish me luck!

[cherniy_chack]

When replacing the shaft seal of the injection pump and installing the measuring device, air has entered the pump housing.
It must be deleted.
If the cover of the injection pump has a socket with a hexagon key 14 mm, it must be opened and rotating the crankshaft with a starter remove the air from the housing.
Then unscrew the nuts on the injectors and remove the air from the fuel pipes.
When from under the nuts will go a powerful jet of diesel fuel, twist the nuts and you can start the engine.
After starting the engine and a short trip by car, you can conclude how the initial angle of fuel injection is set.
Late injection, early injection or managed to guess.

[Chug]

Went out after lunch and it started and revved up to max throttle fine, but I've still got no fuel coming out of the return pipe, This is really puzzling me?

Then I put everything back together and went for a test drive, she's lacking a little in power over normal but otherwise seems to run ok so I will have to tweak the timing, but I thought I would just leave it as is for now and just let it sit and run for awhile to charge the battery which got drained flat cranking all the air out this morning.

After an hour or so running it still had no fuel coming out of the return?
light was fading and it was drizzling and windy and I was bloody cold so I quit for today.

Oh the joy of motors

[cherniy_chack]

Chuggy,I personally did not encounter a lack of fuel in the return line, but I know about such cases.
Perhaps dirt and debris blocked the outlet in the connection, through which the fuel should leave the injection pump in the return line.
The lack of fuel in the return line of the injection pump leads to the fact that the pump body creates a pressure higher than that indicated in the test plan and the fuel injection will be too early, the motor will work hard, loud and ringing.