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Cold start valve

Transit Mk3, 4 & 5(smiley front) Forum. All Transits 1986 - 2000

Cold start valve

Postby eastkent » Sun Feb 25, 2018 5:36 pm

Hi all!
I'd all but given up driving my '94 Banana engined mk4 when the temperature dropped below 5C. It was only when I really needed to use the van yesterday (-1C) and it refused to even try to start and eventually flattened the battery that I thought there must be something actually wrong. Surely builders etc still went to work in 1994!?

I've now read here about the cold start valve that Haynes mostly ignores so this morning I pushed the lever, where the cable attaches, toward the valve and wedged it in place with a small spanner. Van started almost immediately!

When the engine was almost cold again I checked the voltage at the battery (12.9v), and at the valve's terminal (11.7v) so there's power getting to it but the cable doesn't move whatever I do.

Has anyone had one to bits to see what's what? It looks quite take-apartable but I'd prefer to know what's inside before attempting a repair.
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby dumper » Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:00 pm

When mine packed up back in the day I fitted a choke cable to use from in the cab if you go this way don’t just drill a hole in bulkhead and bolt it into steel work it transmitted engine noise int the cab so bad I only drove 500 yards before I had to fit it into plastic dash to stop it or if yours has a temperature sensor screwed into the cylinder head try linking it out it may be that
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1974 mk1 v4 with 2.0 pinto fitted
1986 mk3 2.5 di swb
1990 190 lwb 2.5 di
1998 100 lwb 2.5 di
2006 350 jumbo 135 tdci
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby bambi mk 1 » Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:11 pm

The switch on the block switches it off when hot :wink: Adjust the cable so it pulls the lever in full when its cold ,you may have to adjust the tickover after it warms up :)
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby eastkent » Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:21 pm

It was getting a voltage with just the ignition on but nothing was moving, so I'm assuming there's a problem inside the valve itself.
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby bambi mk 1 » Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:31 pm

bambi mk 1 wrote:The switch on the block switches it off when hot :wink: Adjust the cable so it pulls the lever in full when its cold ,you may have to adjust the tickover after it warms up :)
eastkent wrote:It was getting a voltage with just the ignition on but nothing was moving, so I'm assuming there's a problem inside the valve itself.

The answer is in there somewhere :roll:
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby eastkent » Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:44 pm

bambi mk 1 wrote:
bambi mk 1 wrote:The switch on the block switches it off when hot :wink: Adjust the cable so it pulls the lever in full when its cold ,you may have to adjust the tickover after it warms up :)
eastkent wrote:It was getting a voltage with just the ignition on but nothing was moving, so I'm assuming there's a problem inside the valve itself.

The answer is in there somewhere :roll:


Hmmm...

I'm not really understanding how the thing works then despite reading about it. I thought that if the temperature was low enough it got 12v, which it does, and the cable pulled the lever in before the engine was turned over, which it doesn't. I expected this to happen quite quickly, obviously.

As I said, if I wedge the lever in the van starts easily when it's freezing cold.

Edit: AHH!! So if I push the lever back against the spring pressure then move the cable end nut thing inwards so it keeps the lever in, when the engine has been running for a while the valve should warm up and let the lever back out again? Is that it?
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby eastkent » Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:52 pm

bambi mk 1 wrote:The switch on the block switches it off when hot :wink: Adjust the cable so it pulls the lever in full when its cold ,you may have to adjust the tickover after it warms up :)


Gotcha! I thought it worked the other way round. Took a while to sink in, that did! Thanks.
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby eastkent » Mon Feb 26, 2018 10:51 am

Ok, for anyone else who has the same problem I thought I'd update...

Snowing this morning, at most -2C. I pushed the cold start valve's (CSV from now on) lever right back toward the engine, loosened the 10mm nut on the cable end thing and slid it back up the cable as far as possible, then tightened the nut again. Lever stayed where it was put.

The van started very easily and ran very fast. I quickly ran round and loosened the nut on the idle bolt and turned it out until it was running faster than a normal idle but not racing.

I let it run for well over five minutes at a high idle but the back of the CSV wasn't getting even remotely warm and the cable wasn't being released at all. I'm assuming that the valve is probably faulty so as the van is now easy to start by manually holding back the CSV's lever I'll do that from now on until the weather warms up a bit, then I'll either take the valve to bits or fit a manual "choke" cable.

At least I can now get it to start easily when it's cold, so thank you to those who answered, and to those who have explained the CSV previously here.
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby cherniy_chack » Mon Feb 26, 2018 6:59 pm

Guys, this mechanism is called the "cold start accelerator", the English abbreviation KSB. It consists of two parts: mechanical and electrical.
ATTENTION: I know hundreds of owners of Ford Transit in Ukraine, Belarus, Russia and Kazakhstan and there is not one who has an electrical part in service.
The electrical part has an hard-to-remove defect.
Therefore, do not worry, before starting, prop up the KSB lever with a wooden wedge, after starting and a couple of minutes of warm-up, remove it.
I specifically studied the design of the electrical part of the KSB, studied the algorithm of its operation, and came to the conclusion that it has an defect, but there are no necessary parts for its elimination.
If anyone can understand the Google translation of the description of the construction and algorithm of operation of the KSB mechanism, I can try to explain.
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby eastkent » Mon Feb 26, 2018 7:04 pm

cherniy_chack wrote:Guys, this mechanism is called the "cold start accelerator", the English abbreviation KSB. It consists of two parts: mechanical and electrical.
ATTENTION: I know hundreds of owners of Ford Transit in Ukraine, Belarus, Russia and Kazakhstan and there is not one who has an electrical part in service.
The electrical part has an hard-to-remove defect.
Therefore, do not worry, before starting, prop up the KSB lever with a wooden wedge, after starting and a couple of minutes of warm-up, remove it.
I specifically studied the design of the electrical part of the KSB, studied the algorithm of its operation, and came to the conclusion that it has an defect, but there are no necessary parts for its elimination.
If anyone can understand the Google translation of the description of the construction and algorithm of operation of the KSB mechanism, I can try to explain.


Brilliant, thanks. I love that the solution is a wooden wedge; it suits the mk4 perfectly.
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby cherniy_chack » Mon Feb 26, 2018 7:36 pm

My friend does that.
My injection pump does not have a KSB and the motor is perfectly wound up in any frost
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby cherniy_chack » Tue Feb 27, 2018 5:55 pm

Photo of the most unreliable knot KSB.
This is an electrically heated thermostat.
It breaks both the heater and the thermostat.
DSC01914.JPG

DSC01919.JPG

In a cold state at a temperature of about 0 gr C
the thermostat stem is recessed and through the spring system the cable pulls the mechanism lever "on itself", increasing the initial angle of the injection advance by approximately 5 degrees angular to the crankshaft.
The injection pump is ready for a cold start.
When the ignition is switched on through the closed contacts of the temperature sensor in the cylinder block, the voltage of the heating element's contact pin is energized and the thermostat is heated.
The power of the heating element is small, and the time for heating the thermostat before the operation is high. The units are minutes or even a quarter of an hour.
After starting the engine, the electric heating of the thermostat continues and, together with the engine, the subclear space, the fuel pump and the part of the KSB shown in the photo is heated.
As the thermostat is heated, its stem extends and stirs the lever of the mechanism into its initial position.
When the unit is heated to about 30 ° C, the electric heater switches off.
Further the thermostat will be hot from the heated motor.
I had a working temperature sensor and checked the shutdown temperature.
I did not have a working thermostat, so I do not know the temperature of its operation.
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby eastkent » Tue Feb 27, 2018 6:41 pm

Thank you for that! I think that if my cold start mechanism worked properly the engine would be running too fast for too long. If I start it in the morning after wedging the lever back I can remove the wedge almost immediately and the engine runs fine. After ten minutes running the engine will start immediately all day without any further mechanical assistance.

If it was very cold for much longer where I live I'd rig up a manual method of pulling the lever back from inside the van.
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby cherniy_chack » Tue Feb 27, 2018 7:45 pm

KSB is a German abbreviation:Kaltstartbeschleuniger.
I am sorry
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Re: Cold start valve

Postby cherniy_chack » Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:12 pm

Hi,eastkent
I thought about the possible reasons for a bad cold start of your engine without a KSB and an excellent start when turning the gear lever with your hands.
I think the reason is that when you replaced the cam belt, the initial injection angle was incorrectly set.

A late injection was installed.
If the injection timing is set correctly, the motor at a temperature of -5 ° C starts up after 2 ... 5 seconds of the scrolling by the starter.
I recommend that you remove the timing belt protection and install the injection earlier.
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