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Tacho Failing above 2500 RPM, ok to ignore?

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Re: Tacho Failing above 2500 RPM, ok to ignore?

Postby rebuilder86 » Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:14 am

yeh ive ordered the cheapest replacement i could find. 280 bucks.
Im a little worried it might not be the exact right one, but the plug looks identical, its just the low pressure oil supply line to the vacuum pump seems to com eout downwards on the one i jsut ordered, but the one in there now comes out to the side. thats about the only visible difference.
I'll see when it gets here
Im pretty good wiht soldering iron.
I repair starter motors and the like, but i just dont know anythign about alternators. il probably just throw this old one in the bin and not even bother opening it up to learn.
What would one look for visually, when inspecting the roltage regulator?
In the past ive replaced a diode and fixed a fault just by doing that.
(under the watchful eye of my genius autistic electronic engineer mate of course :P )
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Re: Tacho Failing above 2500 RPM, ok to ignore?

Postby cherniy_chack » Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:35 pm

rebuilder86,subtleties in the repair of the generator is less than in the repair of starters.
Disassembly of the generator, inspection and culling of bearings.
Check main rectifier diodes and additional.
If necessary, a replacement kit.
Checking the stator windings for breakdown on the body.
Check the winding of the rotor for an open.
Checking the rotor winding for breakdown on the body.
Check the length of the carbon brushes excitation of the rotor.
The minimum length is about 8 mm.
Check of wear of copper contact rings of a rotor.
Depth of wear no more than 0,5 mm.
Check of serviceability of the relay-regulator.
A 10 ... 15 W 12 V lamp is connected to the brushes.
The generator housing is connected to the minus terminal of the regulated source of the regulated source of direct current 10 ... 16 V.
The output + D of the relay-controller is supplied with a voltage of 10 V from the power source.
The lamp should be on.
The voltage applied to the relay increases smoothly. When the voltage at the output + D increases to 13.8 .... 14.5 V, the lamp should go out.
When decreasing to 12 V, it will light up again.
If the lamp is not on or off, the relay-controller is defective and must be replaced.
Then you collect the generator, you check that the rotor easily rotates by hand.
To the generator case you connect a minus of the storage battery, on a conclusion + D you connect plus batteries.
The rotor of the generator must rotate with effort.
Disconnect + B from the generator-rotor should rotate again easily.
You can install the generator on the machine.
I wish you success!
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Re: Tacho Failing above 2500 RPM, ok to ignore?

Postby rebuilder86 » Thu Mar 15, 2018 3:04 am

GOOD NEWS, new alternator is in no fuss at all, everythign sorted.

Cherniy whats your role in life, are you a mechanic?, auto electrician?, or an enthusiast?
I really appreciate that you are giving this informaton out over the internet. You obviously made the right career choices and enjoy mechanical things enough to share the knowledge.

Now that you have posted that, im going to open this old alternator, and learn about it.
alternators are a massive economical problem here for my friends and family every year. Our harsh hot dry conditions, plus the australian way of life (running a dead battery until it jsut cant run anymore) realy takes its toll on alternators here.
I suspect mine died due to the 2 batteries, both well beyond the end of their lives, which were effectivly just big short circuits with a little bit of capacity for starting the engine. One returned a test result of "HEALTH: 29 % REPLACE" haha
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Re: Tacho Failing above 2500 RPM, ok to ignore?

Postby cherniy_chack » Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:34 pm

rebuilder86 wrote:Cherniy whats your role in life, are you a mechanic?, auto electrician?, or an enthusiast?

When I was about 5 years old, my grandmother found my umbilical cord and offered to untie it.
I untied it.
Grandmother said that I can do everything with my hands, for what I will undertake.
And I do.
But first I think.
I was born, grew up, lived and live in a country where until recently people were forced to do everything themselves, the service was absent, from the word "absolutely".
I learned a mining engineer, but all my life I work as a mechanic for repairs.
For many years I was engaged in repairing cars in a garage without a license. In my country, such a license is not needed until now. But I'm old and can not earn in a garage. I have a pension, but I still have a job-for fun.And a little for money. And in order not to grumble to her old woman and not to listen to her grumbling. :lol:
For many years I was an active participant in the Russian-language forum Ford Transit.
I guess I'm an enthusiast ...
I'm sorry for the offtopic.
rebuilder86,Do you live in Australia?
Then you need to buy batteries with control plugs to control the density of electrolyte and regularly, once a month, add distilled water to the battery. This will prolong their life, and you save money.
In a dry hot climate, there is no need to have an electrolyte density of 1.27.
It will be enough to have 1.25.
Such a small decrease in the acid concentration will further increase the battery life.
rebuilder86 wrote:HEALTH: 29 % REPLACE"

The son removed the 68 Ah battery from the car, its residual capacity is 10 Ah, but it turns on my Transit at 0 ° C.
I know the method of restoring the battery capacity, its efficiency is 50/50, but it did not give a result.
..........
If the autopsy shows that the inside of the generator is flooded with oil, a generator will need to be purchased to repair the generator.
Such.
http://ford-transit.com.ua/generatori-i ... VE004.html
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