Starting issue, Ignition Barrel ?

[benno123]

all of a sudden my lovely campervan stopped starting. When i turn the ignition key i hear a click but no starter motor engages. Battery is full and in order. I do see my brakelight from the handbrake comes up when i try to start, never noticed this before.

It ran great until 2 weeks ago. Then it sat on the driveway. As a APK (dutch MOT) is coming up i wanted to make a nice spin today but nothing happened.

am i correct there is no start inhibitor on these busses and the factual key is merely a switch under the ignition barrel ? I would like to get it up and running asap

My campervan is a Ford MK5 2.5 DI from 2000.

greetings,

Benno van Ham

[twin wheel camper]

Try lightly tapping the main body of your starter motor when someone is trying to start it.
Sounds like the starter is not engaging properly and the click you hear is the solenoid but the starter is not kicking in.
Failing that you may have battery cables not making a good connection or might be loose?

[benno123]

I am trying to rule out the ignition Barrel. Not sure if there is any 'smart' things happening there like a starting inhibitor or something. I will try the tapping trick on the starter though.

In the past i used to have some issues with ignition switches in older cars so i am trying to rule that one out also. Any more tips are welcome


greetings,

benno

[twin wheel camper]

If you want to test the Starter you can run a wire from the battery directly to the SMALLER CABLE on the solenoid and that will engage the starter motor and rule it out
The click you say you can hear turning the ignition switch is it coming from the engine area or behind the dash?
It’s it’s the engine bay that sounds like the solenoid trying to run the Starter hence giving the starter motor and solid tap can kick it into working.
To test the ignition switch remove the trim around the ignition barrel and use a multimeter and see if on each turn of the key if the power is going to the relevant wire as it’s supposed to? Simple enough to do.

[V184]

all of a sudden my lovely campervan stopped starting. When i turn the ignition key i hear a click but no starter motor engages. Battery is full and in order. I do see my brakelight from the handbrake comes up when i try to start, never noticed this before.

It ran great until 2 weeks ago. Then it sat on the driveway. As a APK (dutch MOT) is coming up i wanted to make a nice spin today but nothing happened.

am i correct there is no start inhibitor on these busses and the factual key is merely a switch under the ignition barrel ? I would like to get it up and running asap

My campervan is a Ford MK5 2.5 DI from 2000.

greetings,

Benno van Ham

Have you checked the battery leads ?

[benno123]

Battery leads are fine, battery too. Taking a direct +12 to the solenoid makes it spin up so must be something in or between Ignition barrel and solenoid. I have ordered a new ignition lock and switch from transitcenter as it also feels a bit weird. Hard to explain but when you turn the ignition key you normally can rotate the key to the starting position ans it springs back a bit. That doesn't happen anymore. Guess the lock might be faulty.

Greetings,

Benno

[benno123]

One step further, it seems it is the PATS system playing up. I have two keys, one with a red marking one normal, that is all. When i put on ignition the PATS light above the mirror goes on and then starts blinking fast. I tried a lot of things with both keys near the barrel, trying to expose the aerial around the barrel and all of a sudden i had one occassion where the PATS light staid off and presto car starts. Only once and after that nothing.

Is there a way to solve this or work around the issue. It is a 2.5 DI non turbo and i am the legal owner. What is the best solution to get this solved ? Can i remove the PATS, is there a thing i can repair (like the aerial for instance etc...


greetings,

Benno

[benno123]

PATS code 32 gets delivered, that seems to come from the Fuel pump solenoid. I can see that under my bonnet already some previous owner has started tampering with wires just to make it any easier.

I can not find a third fusebox. Mine has one big one under the Steering wheel (LHD) all fuses work.
One small one next to the starter battery on the right front wing with 3 fuses in it all ok.
There should, could be a third box according to what i read in fora, this would be locates on top of the chassis. One side is a airbox lH and on the other one is an ABS control box.

This is freaking me out, i cannot find anything on this issue online that looks like my own problem.

Any help would be dearly appreciated.

greetings,

Benno

[V184]

PATS code 32 gets delivered, that seems to come from the Fuel pump solenoid. I can see that under my bonnet already some previous owner has started tampering with wires just to make it any easier.

I can not find a third fusebox. Mine has one big one under the Steering wheel (LHD) all fuses work.
One small one next to the starter battery on the right front wing with 3 fuses in it all ok.
There should, could be a third box according to what i read in fora, this would be locates on top of the chassis. One side is a airbox lH and on the other one is an ABS control box.

This is freaking me out, i cannot find anything on this issue online that looks like my own problem.

Any help would be dearly appreciated.

greetings,

Benno

Is there a module on the back of the injection pump? they can go wrong but cant remember if the engine turns over or not when they fail ?

[benno123]

Yes, there is a module on it, doesn't look like it can be easily dismantled however (propably a good option for a anti theft device).

[Chug]

If you look at the module there should be three wires going under the cover to the pump stop solenoid, IIRC it's a red/white wire that is 12v+. I think the others are brown and a black/purple.

[V184]

Yes, there is a module on it, doesn't look like it can be easily dismantled however (propably a good option for a anti theft device).

From memory take injector pipes off and you can gain access to all bolts which are either allen or torx

[Altransit]

There are two 5 amp fuses in the cabin fuse box, numbers 32 & 33. If someone has messed with the RIM module on the pump, one or both could have blown. Check these fuses and replace if blown, but if they keep blowing, you'll need to bypass the RIM module on the back of the pump.
On the Mk5, it won't even turn over if the PATS is activated, (unless it's a turbo!)

[benno123]

Well it doesn't turn over basically. Two days ago i had 1 time i coul get it to get the PATS deactivated and it started on the first turn. This only worked once. After that nothing. PATS stays active, throws code 3-2

I have checked the fuses in the car fusebox 32 and 33 seem ok.

I was hoping to find the mystery third box under the bonnet somewhere but on the images i have seen on the web are all from RHD cars and there it sits on the chassis rail under the steering. In my case there is the ABS pump.

This weekend i will put some extra time in it, as it is a simple 2.5 DI maybe bypassing the PATS and running live wire to solenoid and the starter wire from ignition to starter solenoid will solve the trick for me. Will try this.

I have a ForScan and adapter on the post to me, hopefully that can be of use for me also. Thanks all for thinking with me and providing me with valuable information on this frankenbaby.

greetings,

benno

[V184]

Well it doesn't turn over basically. Two days ago i had 1 time i coul get it to get the PATS deactivated and it started on the first turn. This only worked once. After that nothing. PATS stays active, throws code 3-2

I have checked the fuses in the car fusebox 32 and 33 seem ok.

I was hoping to find the mystery third box under the bonnet somewhere but on the images i have seen on the web are all from RHD cars and there it sits on the chassis rail under the steering. In my case there is the ABS pump.

This weekend i will put some extra time in it, as it is a simple 2.5 DI maybe bypassing the PATS and running live wire to solenoid and the starter wire from ignition to starter solenoid will solve the trick for me. Will try this.

I have a ForScan and adapter on the post to me, hopefully that can be of use for me also. Thanks all for thinking with me and providing me with valuable information on this frankenbaby.

greetings,

benno

Does sound like it could be a problem with the dds /rim module on the back of the injection pump