No brake lights?

[mattster87]

Hi all - Have a 1999 2.5 LWB;

Got tugged the other day and had my van prohibited for no stop lamps - on getting the van home I changed the bulbs, and this didn't fix the issue.

Have done a search on here, and this is as far as i've got

No new paneling or wiring done since ive owned.
All other rear lights work including rear lights (which share a bulb with the stop lamp if im not mistaken)
Wired a 12 v +/- straight to the bulb holder, bulb lit up.
Check fuse, not blown, changed anyway - Fuse No 7.

So my questions are;

Where does the rear light loom run? does it go across the top of the van? Theres a loom there that feeds the interior lights and goes all the way to the back.

I've read about the brake switch, theres two plugs on my pedal assembly - one yellow and one white.gray. Which one is wich?

Where are the brake/rear lights grounded too? I have a feeling this may be the issue.

I also read about possible problems with fuel filter wiring, could someone point me in the right direction for this issue?

Cheers for any help!!
Matt

[jay]

check the brake light switch is working..easy to do with multimeter on the back of the plug..1 wire will be live and when pedal pushed both will be live....also check the fuse..you could also bypass the switch with a bit of wire..brake lights are earthed each side so unlikely to be earth problem as also the other rear lights wont work

[robbie.cee]

yeah bridge the switch wires first, if they wrk switch fooked, if not run new wire up right side of a post, along with the others th the light clusters.

damn pg9s(?)

[sideshow_bill]

yeah bridge the switch wires first, if they wrk switch fooked, if not run new wire up right side of a post, along with the others th the light clusters.

damn pg9s(?)

I wouldnt advise running a new wire. If the wire is damaged then others in the loom will probably be too, so best find the damage before it causes a fire.

Get a Haynes manual and trace the circuit with a volt meter.

[mattster87]

Cheers for help so far, I bridged the wires on the switch and still had no brake lights - does this mean switch is good? I stripped the switch down and cleaned it all up - it blew the fuse when i re attached it but it is not blowing fuses every time i engage switch. I've followed the loom and there is no damage to any wires anywhere, I have Purple and Purple/Yellow coming of the switch, then it joins the main loom. Im guessing purple is the control switch?

I understand bypassing the switch is an effective method although as said finding the cause would be best - but if i cant see any visable damage on the wires could there still be a fault with the wires or is it going to be shorting somewhere else?

Cheers
Matt

[robbie.cee]

Cheers for help so far, I bridged the wires on the switch and still had no brake lights - does this mean switch is good? I stripped the switch down and cleaned it all up - it blew the fuse when i re attached it but it is not blowing fuses every time i engage switch. I've followed the loom and there is no damage to any wires anywhere, I have Purple and Purple/Yellow coming of the switch, then it joins the main loom. Im guessing purple is the control switch?

I understand bypassing the switch is an effective method although as said finding the cause would be best - but if i cant see any visable damage on the wires could there still be a fault with the wires or is it going to be shorting somewhere else?

Cheers
Matt

looks like switch is ok, but really need a multimeter on it to check for continuity when switch activated. use the diode setting - looks like a triangle pointing into a wall!!
assuming switch proven ok, and have 12v at switch, start pulling a post covers off to locate wiring
think its drivers side, across door along wall to rear. should be easy enough to expose the wires. just a thought- check vicinity of light clusters first- unless you welded roof i seriously doubt its duff along the sidewall, more likely around rear door area where wires run up in the gap inside the panels.
are all other lights ok ie fog reverse rear lights indicators? personally, i WOULD re run wire- as long as BOTH ends of old wire are disconnected then its just a dead wire and electrically cant pose a threat!(also be good idea to test for continuity to earth at both ends of said wire before rerun. if it is earthed then its u/s.

hopefully helpful!!

rob

[sideshow_bill]

If you run a new wire, it is best to replace all the wires in the damaged section, as it is unlikely that only one is damaged. It will only be a matter of time before you loose side lights, indicators etc.

[robbie.cee]

If you run a new wire, it is best to replace all the wires in the damaged section, as it is unlikely that only one is damaged. It will only be a matter of time before you loose side lights, indicators etc.

aye, or, once re-run, strip out the orig, then, youll most likely actually find the fooked area, you can then assess and if needs be replace the lot.

agree with sideshow bill but am a lazy cnut so ill not do it unless i HAVE to (contradicting myself, i CAN waste a whole week(end) doing stuff i reallly DONT need to do too, much to annoyance of the trouble n strife!))

[Altransit]

Have you actually checked for power at the pedal switch

[mattster87]

I may not have....I put the meter across the two terminals on the diode settings but didnt get any solid readings, lots of numbers flashing, no noticeable changes when operating the switch.

I have purple and purple yellow coming off the switch, these join on to two wires on a yellow tab mounted behind the switch, what are these wires? I presume one of them atleast is 12v live? The 4 wires follow onto the big loom then to a black connector block under the right hand side dash, when disconnecting this block - no lights on the off side work. Would there be another loom that goes of to the near side then? The wiring is very accessible as i have no roof lining, i followed the wiring up the pillar, and along the ridge in the o/s roof, Down to the rear pillar and down to the light cluster.

All other lights work, even the rear lights work, the ones that are shared with the brake lights.


Cheers

[robbie.cee]

can you stick a meter on each wire one at a time with the blk wire of meter suitably earthed. one or t'other on switch will be live(or should be!) the other will run off to lights...
if defo 12v at switch,
and switch is ok, its wire, BUT only if above both ok.


continuity - test it first- set meter- join the leads. my one beeps continuously til you separate the leads.
thus, stick leads on switch after you establish if your meter beeps.
switch test beep must be same as when testing meter for a beep in first instance.

so if your meter does beep, and switch makes it beep when activated, we know switch is ok.

12v test- blk meter lead to good known earth(steering column good one sitck in key hole or cig lighter (be careful there!)
red meter lead goes to first of two wires, one at a time checking meter for readings. voltage on one - yes/no? if not check fuse.
if you do find the live, continuity test the other one to earth... would be shorted if it does. you could even extend meter lead to test both ends of wiree for continuity as might be snapped internally!!

sorry bout the essay!

rob

[Altransit]

I'm sure you'll find the fault is in the power feed to the switch, OR the switch, or connections to, are faulty The light clusters are often to blame, but would be unusual to get two faults at the same time

You need to check those voltages at the switch, with the ignition turned on of course

Just an afterthought, do you have a towbar socket by any chance

[mattster87]

essays more than welcome rob, its appreciated - will get this done first thing in the morning.

I do indeed have a tow bar socket, and it doen'st look 'professionally' installed

cheers

[robbie.cee]

heheh wonder if its shorting there- have you per chance reversed it into owt? did same on a hilux once, the boss drove to work in the dark lol

[trannyfreak]

Help I got this problem too did you find out the problem many thanks