part 2 scv glow plugs and egr bypass with pics

[loot]

Right I hope somebody found the other post at least of some interest!
These are not tutorials they are just an informative overview of what I have been upto I always take care and keep items clean when working on them.
This is also my van and maybe differently set up on others.

It has been a bit of a long day so I'll try and be as descriptive as I can but I will take it that ppl doing these jobs already know what they are doing

Right pic 1 is with the cabin air intake and fuel rail removed.

New unblown prv fitted.

Inlet removed.....nice! you can see the suction control valve lower left side of pic.

Inlet looking crustier than bear grylls boxers! rubbers are ok tho.

Fancy some potholing any1!

This is 1 end of the dreaded stink pipe(technical term)that feeds from the egr to the inlet

Right, this is the removed suction control unit taken out,T30 torx for this chaps.

Lets see what this is all about and take it apart................its an electromagnetic solenoid valve, and I put power to it and it actuates/works, there are only 2 pins on it to get it to work so how does it fail?? and more to the point how does the pcm know it has failed? I'd expect this is with the fuel rail pressure sensor and the prv blowing as a knock on effect! even though my "faulty" scv seems to work! for those who don't know, it is a simple device that when the unit is energized the magnetic field forces the inner shaft in or out, this basically acts like a tap so when activated it opens or shuts the flow of fuel/air which ever the case is.

Ok leave that for now next we have the new scv fitted.....I like shiny!

Bought some glow plugs a while ago so why not do them, I don't know what all the fuss is they pop out easily enough, I gave them a nudge tighter then undid.
I was scratching my head over these because the new ones are thinner than the old ones both are beru, old ones beru ireland 11.5v new germany 4.4v both appear listed for my van so I decided to put new ones in as the voltage range is tolerable imo the new ones should heat up quicker and use less fuel etc etc.(my choice, not advice to others)

Right this is my non water cooled egr valve which looks a bit tired but serviceable.


Right lets see how it works and take it apart, its only held on by tabs.

is that it? a fricking motor from a woolies drill and some cogs?

so all you need to do is take this gear out it is only pushed in so can be refitted anytime you like, all this bollocks over blanking plates lol the egr still works but it doesn't open the exhaust port which is spring loaded on a worm wheel arrangement. again i can only see 2 wires going to the motor and the connector block has about 5 pins so is this so i assume can bus?maybe stink sensor?(technical)

This is the return pipe with what I believe is the air quality sensor on it lets clean all the crud out.

Close up of sensor (I'd like to know the pin outs for this and the egr.

Right I cleaned all the coke/crap out of the inlet and cleaned it all up.
This is it all back together and bled and running it has no hunting now and as expected the eml has just come on.


So to summarize, I have led the van to believe all is good but I assume that since the sensor isn't picking up any changes in air quality,density,heat or resistance it is throwing the egr p0404 egr range error, what we need is to find out is what values the sensor is looking for when pcm is expecting them, also the pin outs for the egr and the sensor in the last pic.

I don't know fully what aspect each of these items are for, but I know how they work since I have a good knowledge of most electronic components, I just need to know their exact purpose.

Please don't tell me this is wrong or that is wrong I did my van and am happy with it it is all clean ant tidy and running as well as expected til I get my calibrations done, I will put my egr back as ids will likely say no! I used my maxscan to remove the egr fault code which may or may not be in kam so please be aware of this when messing with your mk7!

I'll do an update as to whether I can blag the pcm into thinking everything is fine, I'm thinking along the lines of an output from the egr motor to a relay/circuit/resistor to input of the air quality sensor or something like that.

Thanks for looking and I hope you liked the pictures, got very messy near the end but I have shown the parts mainly.

[blue estate]

Told you the manifold would be shitty as for the Egr mine's turned off good pics

[loot]

Cheers, I'd like to do a plug and play blag kit for it so you just plug them into the egr and sensor which will keep it off.
Probably won't happen but I'll have a look!

[loot]

Well the van started straight up and ran smooth,i drove it steadily to work, turned off the engine and restarted it fine, then stopped it and i heard the egr motor spinning as expected.
Does anybody know if i will lose boost pressure now the egr is blanked? Will the pcm compensate for it or will it get flagged as a fault?

Thanks.

[ake]

Egr not functioning will throw faults, can take up to 50 miles to show, only way to disable it without faults is electronically, various other methods have tried, but all throw light on

[loot]

Mine threw a code after 3 stop starts of the engine, interesting tho it is the eml on and not powertrain cog lamp.
I am working on tricking it electronically because it takes some time to come on i think it needs to see that the exhaust fumes are getting to the sensor which isn't happening so i need to check resistances and see what's what, probably amount to nothing but I'm very excited.

[loot]

Learned a bit today, couldn't figure out what the 5 pins were on the egr but have now on closer inspection, 2 are for the motor and the others are I'm assuming a potentiometer inside the head,i found that manually winding the head gears opens the valve that has a pin that protrudes into the head which is where the plunger is, easily missed the first time round, so that is why the code came up! Very sneaky.

I still think we are also looking at a variance in pressure that will cause the eml to come up because a blanking plate allows the egr to operate like normal and yet still throws a code, also Ford doesn't operate on voltage signals it uses frequencies which makes it all the more difficult.

Funny thing,i unplugged the egr and map/maf sensor and the eml came up and also the esp, not sure why that would come up lol.

[robbie71]

great post & pics , very interesting about the PRV
Now I know more about the known knowns but its more about unknown unknowns that i want to know.

Can I ask how long does it take to take off the egr valve ?I have a 2007 2.2 fwd & It seems to be just 4 bolts also anything I should watch out for ?

[loot]

The egr valve is tricky to get to with everything there but possible to get out, its 4 bolts 2 flanges with 2 bolts in 10mm.
You could probably get the 2 exhaust ones from under the van and the other 2 from by the starter motor, I'd definitely take the cabin filter housing off its right in your way when you open the bonnet but only 2x8mm bolts.
I find that there isn't much to go wrong with the mechanical part of the egr unless it its really worn out and blowing,i actually took the plastic face panel out with the egr still in, it is held on by 5 lugs (see pic) and 2 cogs can be taken out or you'll lose them.
Funny thing the other day my bosses van came up with the p0404 egr fault so i cleared it for him and said it would come back but it hasn't?
Also my van is different to yours so you may have some slight differences.


And the gasket on the egr is a bit tricky to get back on on mine but it is right at the back!

[kerker21]

im sure that air quality sencor reads boost presure from the egr to the inlet ???? , so what are the symptoms of a prv going down then ??

[loot]

That's the map sensor that's plugged in on top.
The fuel rail pressure sensor senses how much pressure is there and a blown prv leaks fuel pressure so pcm UPS the scv operation to compensate maybe the map sensor says there is too much pressure there and tells the pcm less fuel hence the hunting.
Also if there is no egr pressure the pcm thinks it is under boosting and flags a fault??
I am unable to find all these answers yet but i think maybe its not such a good idea to block the egr or try to fool it?
Also I'm wondering if aswel as switching off the egr i.e a delete, it is necessary to remap the pcm??
I think that's a question for someone a lot higher up the ladder than me!!

[Guy88]

scv doenst just open and close

its variable depending on voltage from the PCM from 0v to 5v

[Guy88]

That's the map sensor that's plugged in on top.
The fuel rail pressure sensor senses how much pressure is there and a blown prv leaks fuel pressure so pcm UPS the scv operation to compensate maybe the map sensor says there is too much pressure there and tells the pcm less fuel hence the hunting.
Also if there is no egr pressure the pcm thinks it is under boosting and flags a fault??
I am unable to find all these answers yet but i think maybe its not such a good idea to block the egr or try to fool it?
Also I'm wondering if aswel as switching off the egr i.e a delete, it is necessary to remap the pcm??
I think that's a question for someone a lot higher up the ladder than me!!

blown PRV causes low fuel pressure at idle, this is caused by the SCV sticking and allowing too much fuel to flow to the rail therefore pushing the pressures up, the PCM counts how many times this happens and after a certain time puts the EML on

EGR doenst affect boost pressure as when the engine is boosting ther EGR is closed, the PCM uses the EGR position sensor and MAF to monitor it, if its blanked you get air flow lower than expected, if you unplug it you get the position code aswell as MAF code, theres no harm in blocking it if you can live with the light on

Vantuner can disable the EGR via a map, so if you have an EGR that is functioning correctly then vantuners map will keep it closed and the engine thinks thats how it should be and wont put a light on

[martynx]

There's a motor position sensor circuit in the Egr but the main Egr function monitoring is done by the MAF sensor..

There's no throttle on our transits so MAF knows that engine will suck in 2.2 litres of air, with Egr wide open it expects only about 1.6 litres , the Egr will contribute the rest... so an Egr problem will result in too much or too little air passing the MAF and a fault code will be flagged .. It's a MAF code P1102/3 .. It don't mean you need a 150 quid MAF sensor , it means your Egr is probably at fault.. Theres hundreds of detailed tables (aka maps) that specify exactly what the air flow should be for any given rpm/throttle position/barometric outside pressure / outside air temp etc...

It's a great example of how a DTC , outside of the dealer diagnostic tool environment , is simply a clue and nothing else:) and even within it sometimes!

[martynx]

You beat me to it Guy!! :):)