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Fuel Metering Solenoid

Transit Mk6 & Mk7 Forum. All Transits 2000 - 2013

Re: Fuel Metering Solenoid

Postby Stephenizzy » Mon Jul 20, 2015 11:03 pm

Hi unluckytransitowner, how did you solve the problem of the valve only reaching the 11'oclock position.

Thanks Steve
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Re: Fuel Metering Solenoid

Postby knobby1 » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:45 am

You do realize this thread is over 2 years old..??

Lord Knobrot
2008 2.4L RWD 170+PS 6-speed 350 LWB High Roof.

When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather, not screaming like the passengers in his car..!
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Re: Fuel Metering Solenoid

Postby Stephenizzy » Sun Jul 26, 2015 4:09 pm

Thought I would drop a line, had the leaky fuel metering solenoid valve, made the tool that I had seen on YouTube from a 32mm socket and made it short enough to get a 3/8 torque wrench in, I cut the socket to the right length and welded a 3/8 socket inside, All went well except I couldn’t get the one of the bottom outlet none return valve off, I managed to tap the castle collar off with a punch and then with a 6 point ring spanner remove the offending object, all went well going back together bled the injectors crossed my fingers and hey presto it started straight up, looked and the wife a big thumbs up and a thank F**k for that and then it died, Oh no and a few other things came to mind thinking of previous things I have read, pulled it all apart stuck it all back together but left the injector pipes off, got the wife to spin the engine over while looking for a good spurt of diesel only to find in was froth, I came armed with a bleed bulb from a Citroen, managed to get fuel to coupling above the camchain cover and snapped it back on, got the wife to spin it over and a good volume of fuel was now flowing, slapped it all back together bled the injectors and she runs fine, Just thought I would write this just in case this has happened or is happening to someone is don’t give up, I thought I had f****d it but carried on. Hope this helps someone. Got the metering valve from transitpartsuk £175.00 Ebay.
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Re: Fuel Metering Solenoid

Postby knobby1 » Mon Jul 27, 2015 2:30 am

Good write-up nonetheless....thankyou.

Lord Knobrot
2008 2.4L RWD 170+PS 6-speed 350 LWB High Roof.

When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather, not screaming like the passengers in his car..!
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Re: Fuel Metering Solenoid

Postby soul4t » Mon May 30, 2016 10:52 am

Hi Guys,

I know this is a very old thread, but it's prominent when searching for solutions to the leaky metering solenoid, so I thought it was a good place to share my experience. I imagine there are a few things I didn't do 'properly' or ideally, but I hope it might be of some help to someone.

Had the leaky metering solenoid problem on my 02 plate T260 (75hp TDI).
Decided to replace solenoid myself as cost of specialist repair was too high...considering I'd just paid for a turbo replacement and other bits. Bought solenoid from eBay..£195 I think

Rounded one of the bolts holding the inlet manifold on as it was rusty - bolts weren't easily/possibly replaceable...sourced replacement manifold, cut old plastic around bolt to crack on with the job.
On first attempt I removed the cover to the water pump to gain better access...ended up replacing the cover and gasket. - Unnecessary in the end anyway : )
Made socket tool out of 32mm deep socket...unfortunately the socket wasn't 'socket' deep enough and the inner part was overly snug to the top part of the solenoid.
Couldn't budge the solenoid...tool kept slipping...frustrated and working in drizzle decided to silicone the top back on and put it back together to use it until I could get the £40 socket tool delivered. Changed the coolant pipes running to the oil cooler and lower radiator.

Socket tool came, stripped it back again without removing water pump cover, only needed to remove 3 fuel lines for the tool to fit...had to remove the fuel line retaining clips and undo the fuel lines to the two rightmost injectors to wiggle them out of the way.
Tool wouldn't budge the solenoid...last resort was a nail punch and light lump hammer to the solenoid key bit, after a few minutes :shock: it did budge!
Whipped it off, with a wiggle using maul grips.
Clipped the solenoid wires and carefully removed sleeve to ensure I knew the order of the wires.
Couldn't get the stripped wires to engage properly with the crimps (supplied) so decided to solder the wires instead (tinned each wire separately, then soldered together). Covered with insulation tape and new sleeving.
Couldn't find out what Renap 220 or equivalent was, so used some gear oil to 'lightly lubricate' the sealing rings on the solenoid.
Tried to follow Bosch procedure for refitting...tool was a bit soft, torque wrench was big for the space you're working in. Tightened to 80nm then slackened...(the tool tends to move the solenoid body if you're not careful...started about 15degrees anti clockwise from where the old solenoid finished).
Reset the solenoid position to the '12 o clock position' which actually looks more like 10 when the pump is on the engine...either way I just got it a few degrees less than where the old one was. Tightened to 25nm, nudged it to it's final position. I couldn't get it to turn a further 45 degrees, so I just tightened as much as the socket would allow...didn't think to nail punch it tighter... Using the torque wrench the tightest I could get it to go was around 60nm without the tool slipping.
Didn't have fresh diesel so used redex diesel treatment and cleaned and dipped one way valves in it before refitting...also little bit of vaseline on threads before screwing up.
Thought I'd see if the primer pump on top of the diesel filter housing would help prime the pump...pushed it and fuel came out of one of the one way valves. I assume that as the pump turns in time with the timing chain, each one way valve receives it's dose of fuel, hence fuel only came out of one valve. The important thing is that the pump could be primed even if the injector points needed bleeding to get it running.
Reassembled fuel lines, priming the one that I could manually (the older T260 is direct injection, the later one I think is common rail). Leaving the other 2 that I'd loosened slightly loose.
Coolant pipe refitted to water pump, coolant pipe refitted behind coolant pump (using jubilee clip instead of standard) Inlet manifold back on and the rest.

After 3 short attempts as starting, it fired up, revved a little and had a look at the injector pipes...one of which was a little lively so I quickly turned off the engine and tighten them right up.

Ran the engine till warm and topped up coolant. Happy Days, no leak! Many thanks to the forum for all the links and confidence. Now it should go through the MOT 8)
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