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Cleaning MK7 2.4 RWD EGR Valve

Transit Mk6 & Mk7 Forum. All Transits 2000 - 2013

Re: Cleaning MK7 2.4 RWD EGR Valve

Postby pablo12325 » Sun Jul 15, 2012 9:26 pm

cts1975 wrote:So the new EGR was fitted and it seemed to run alot better.
But then friday and saturday it reverted back to poor running.
It doesnt run badly all the time. I can accelerate in say 2nd into 3rd and 4th and its like brand new and full of power and really smooth.
Then half a mile later when going through the gears its terrible like its running out of fuel. Its just loses power midway through the rev range normally just after 3k RPM.

My gut feeling is that there is not enough fuel getting through when the turbo starts to spin up. If I accelerate slowly its not always present or at worst not as bad.

We had a couple of Ford galaxis years ago with the 1.9TDI VW engine and they were renowned for the MAF sensors going - we replaced them a few times.
Both seem to have the same symtoms of the engine choking and almost running out of fuel and the engine backs right down on power mid way through the gear.
Is there a cheap way of checking the fuel sysytem when it running - a cheap scanner off fleabay maybe?

Thanks


Ian

Have you checked all the turbo pipes and intercooler pipes, as if it isn't geting enough air it will be over fueling ???? is there any smoke when this happens ?????
WHEN IN DOUBT... GRAB A BEER... AND LEAVE IT TO SOMEONE ELSE
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Re: Cleaning MK7 2.4 RWD EGR Valve

Postby acezwild » Sun Jan 27, 2013 6:10 pm

hi just wanted to add a couple things about the removal and replacement of a egr valve on a mk7 2.4 rwd transit, firstly it is a pain but it is do-able, my 07 transit was reving up and down while idling then it started to cut out , i replaced the maf map sensors no help there, so i wanted to tackle the egr and put in a blanking plate, i didnt have a pit or a lift so i put the van up at the front on some blocks for belly clearance, the egr is located at the back of the engine above the starter a small work light comes in handy here ,you need a 10 mil and 8 mil spanner preferably ratcheting spanners and also a 10 mil and 8 mil socket and a pair of needle nose pliers, lift the bonnet unplug the egr located at the back right hand side of the engine under the van the lower 10 mil bolt on the egr going to the manifold was easy enough to get at but kinda blocked by a rubber coolant pipe needle nose pliers on the pipe clamp and remove hose watch your face coolant comes flying out so will need topped up later , bit better clearance now to work , abit of wd 40 remove the 10 mil bolt quite easily but be carefull not to strip head of the bolt or you will start crying for sure, there is another 10 mil bolt above the one you just removed it is harder to see and get at i used a socket on this one and got it off the metal gasket just fell out keep it as you need it . this upper 10 mil bolt can also be accessesd from under the bonnet lift the bonnet and remove the plastic air scoop held on with 2 -8 mil bolts now you can see a bit better stand on a step and reach down the back of the engine long arms help ,there is the 10 mil bolt as i said you can get it from the top or bottom whatever is more comfortable for you. i traced the gasket and cut a plate out of thin stainless put in the plate and tightened up the bolts reconnected everything topped up coolant, tried the van and no luck i wasnt sure what inlet on the egr i was supposed to blank and this didnt help, back under i went did the whole process again this time undoing the 10 mil bolts then the 8 mil bolts on the egr the bottom 8mil bolt was fairly simple. the other 8 mil bolt i got from under the bonnet got the gasket on the 8 mil side of the egr where the metal flex pipe is and made another plate and blanked it off after much stuggling trying to bolt it all back together i reconnected everything topped up coolant , and started the van with both plates in in was a bit lumpy idling but an improvement, after the van warmed up it seem to idle perfectly i test drove it no problems power wise and no warning lights on the dash. next day it was cold started the van and it was lumpy idling again and cut out a couple times i drove it and when it was warm it was perfect again, idled great , so where im at is im thinking of taking off the blanking plate i have goin to the manifold the one held in with the 10 mil bolts and seeing if that makes a difference, as theres not alot about the struggles of the 2.4 rwd erg valve replacement i hope this helps you guys i will let you know how i get on with the removal of the other blanking plate.
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Re: Cleaning MK7 2.4 RWD EGR Valve

Postby sigadams » Sun Jun 09, 2013 12:16 am

hi im having similar problem
fords said I had contaminated fuel and cleaned it out.
I think my egr is blocked as they didn't change that.
someone sqaid my prv is f*** but ive been driving it for 1yr as fords cant fix it.
after reading your problem im convinced my egr need replacing.
ive had problems with cold start .. it turns on runs for seconds then cuts out like fuel is switched off however the rev metre dosnt register.
I repeat this 6 or 7 times till aventually the revs click on and the van stays running.
stays ok until next day cold start. I believe it to be the egr now. if you have any ideas please let me no.
cheers gary
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Re: Cleaning MK7 2.4 RWD EGR Valve

Postby loot » Sun Jun 09, 2013 12:54 am

in my opinion a knackered egr, prv or scv will not stop the van starting and running at all, but will cause strange power losses/ fluctuations/ blank spots/powertrain cog or engine mil to come on and finally random stalling.
:wink: I have had all those symptoms but the van started and drove fine all the time but as above.
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Re: Cleaning MK7 2.4 RWD EGR Valve

Postby NoMoreVitos » Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:35 am

Hi, this sounds a lot like a problem I had with my MK7 TDCI 2.4 RWD. I eventually tracked it down (with a lot of help from this forum) to the Pressure Relief Valve on the Fuel rail and whilst replacing that did the Suction Control Valve on the diesel pump and had the computer re set. The symptoms being an almost total lack of throttle response intermittently, particularly in heavy stop start traffic.

I am now experiencing the EGR problems, my dash light come on and after a diagnostics test it came up as the EGR so I have no doubt as to the new problem. Cars are seemingly being built with a unofficial use by date and unless you are a talented home mechanic or filthy rich after 10 years your pride and joy is headed for the Crusher.

I do feel sorry for these Motor Home enthusiasts who are building 1/2 million dollar houses on wheels that are designed by Richard Craniums with the mechanical integrity of Rube Goldberg (look him up). I don't fancy the idea of driving one of these modern electronic marvels into the Outback of NSW weighing in at 3 tonne or more and have it go into limp mode or just plain stop at a River Crossing in Kakadu park, lets see how the bush mechanics get around these things.
Good Luck.
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Re: Cleaning MK7 2.4 RWD EGR Valve

Postby NoMoreVitos » Wed Feb 04, 2015 11:12 pm

Hi, what you describe does sound like fuel starvation, my brother had something similar going on with his Transit Diesel and found it was the Fuel Tank breather restricted or blocked and it would stop the fuel flowing but not always. Just a thought.
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Re: Cleaning MK7 2.4 RWD EGR Valve

Postby patrickhyde79 » Mon Mar 02, 2015 8:00 pm

Can anyone help me code 1409 is coming up on my 57 plate ford transit
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Re: Cleaning MK7 2.4 RWD EGR Valve

Postby Mechaplumb » Wed Sep 18, 2019 12:27 am

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