FWD gearbox removal/replacement

[flyingclutchman]

I've never removed the cross member. What you need are two trolley jacks. One to support the engine and one to lift up the box. I used to be able to lift the box up manually but I'm afraid old age has made me weak! I usually take the shaft out of the nearside hub so it's not in my way. You might also find it easier to remove the gearchange turret before you take the box out. (it's only 6 screws) Make sure you put a rag in the hole while you're working though!!

[bambi mk 1]

You will be quicker taking the 4 bolts out and removing the x member than waiting in a and e after squashing your fingies between it and the diff It makes life a lot easier

[DEANO3528]

Thanks guys, that is great info, just what I needed.
Not such a horrendous job by the sounds of it.
We did have the selector tower off previously due to problems with gear changing so will probably give that the once over again while it's out.

I'll let you know how it goes once we get around to changing it

[DEANO3528]

Just another quick question: Do I need to stick a tube in the diff to stop the gear spacer dropping like the old Fester's did?
Oh yeah, and do I need to mark the x-member position for realignment?

Ta once more

[bambi mk 1]

No and no Hope it goes well for you.

[karl]

This is how i do them

[DEANO3528]

Well I just thought I'd say thanks to you guys for your advice on this little job.
Despite being advised to do so, we did it without removing the x-member. Won't make that mistake again! Almost impossible to get the diff past the x-member easily, puts up a real fight!
Also we now have a flywheel for sale as it already had a solid one fitted

One problem we did have was a driveshaft location issue. Not something I ever had a problem with before but did on this occasion.
O/S went in fine with a bang from the leg to line up the centre bearing, N/S we thought was in well too. No leaks, bled up easy and we were happy.
However after a test drive, it started leaking from the N/S diff seal and there was a slightly odd rhythmic noise.
A closer look underneath and I could see a little too much shiny shaft sticking out.
So despite my better judgement I tried knocking it in and managed to tear the inner gaiter
The air turned a very fetching shade of blue...

So I pulled the shaft and the splines were a bit messy as it must have been relying mostly on friction to supply drive, so I set to cleaning them up before ordering a new gaiter. It was during this time that I noticed the splines to the outside of the snap-ring no longer lined up with the main section. Uh-ho!
Seen lots of Land Rover halfshafts with twisted splines but not expected a Transit one just from a gentle drive up the road.

That changed everything so it was off to eBay to buy a new shaft, and so began another tale of woe.
I wasn't sure if I'd selected the correct shaft so I sent a message for confirmation.
I get one back asking what HP as there are three types for the one reg.no.
I give them that and they reply there are three shafts. Oh for God's sake!
I ask how I tell which I want.
They tell me to contact Ford who will tell me which shaft part number
I reply they are probably most unlikely to furnish me with a pt no to go buy from somebody else.
In the meantime, this afternoon the shaft arrives that I originally asked them to confirm was the correct one!!!!
Suffice to say, they got a right flea in their ear by email tonight.
So I had to get the boy his van back as he has work to do. I got out there tonight and cut the twist off at the snap-ring recess, then re-dressed the spline end. Slapped a load of grease inside the tripodal and cable-tied the gaiter closed.
And it worked! No leaks, drives lovely and he can earn a crust.

So the question has to be; how on earth can I ensure I get the correct shaft?
It has a 26 spline inner, 28 spline outer and no ABS. I think it's equivalent to FO180L which is a 'Shaftec' item. The only thing I forgot to do is to measure the overall length before i replaced it on the motor.

I always assumed that if I asked for a part, the factors would supply what I need, after all I never had to go to Ford first in order to buy a part from Jayar or Partco.

My apologies for length of post, but it's been emotional

[Cellutron]

The trick is to hang on to the old shaft and make a good comparison before inserting the shaft into the diff orifice!
The right shaft should slide in with easy and a good indication is the sound of the clicky noise it makes when the circlip engages in the the groove. No hammering, no cutting, no cursing! Just a click sound.
To ensure it is engaged properly, a little pull should suffice- if it comes out easy, it hasn't engaged right and then go about investigate as to why, eg wrong shaft.
It is unheard of that one could cut the end of the drive shaft and get away with it! I just don't believe it!!!