Mk7 starts but will not run

[MK7 user]

One or two issues going on there mate....time to dump it in the auctions & buy another.

[Colin K]

Howdee,
Yep your right be great to get rid of her as a runner so plodding on. I cleared the memory/cache and rerun the faults still looks a lot. Wondered if it gives any pointers. Cylinder2 ?

Cheers, Col.


PCM DTC P2135:64-28===
Code: P2135 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A / B Voltage Correlation

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Signal Plausibility Failure

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Possible causes :

Electrical connectors not fully engaged

Wiring Harness Short to Battery or Short to Ground

Check for continuity shorts to ground and battery positive.

Inspect connectors for signs of damage, water ingress, corrosion, etc.

The CAN communication with the IC.

CAN communication bus fault.


===END PCM===

===PCM DTC U0167:00-28===
Code: U0167 - Lost Communication With VIM

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module
===END PCM===

===PCM DTC P0704:64-28===
Code: P0704 - Clutch Switch Input Circuit

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Signal Plausibility Failure

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module
===END PCM===

===PCM DTC P02A0:00-28===
Code: P02A0 - Cylinder 2 Balance - Injector Restricted

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

If there are any DTCs relating to specific injector or cylinder faults, investigate those first.

Experience has shown that the symptoms of this fault are:

PCL On

Lack of Power

Poor idle

Poor performance

Possible causes :

Damaged or contaminated CKP/CMP sensor and pulse wheel.

external fuel leaks

Low Engine Compression

The ICF does not match the stored values in the PCM.

Run

Service Function

Fuel System Leak Test

Pilot Correction Learn

Cylinder compression check

Do not renew any components until all pinpoints associated with this DTC are complete.


===END PCM===

===PCM DTC P1103:00-E8===
Code: P1103 - MAF Sensor In Range But Higher Than Expected

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC
- Test not complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module
===END PCM===

===PCM DTC P2265:64-2F===
Code: P2265 - Water in Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Signal Plausibility Failure

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

There is a known issue with the PCM calibration on this vehicle.

The issue with the calibration does not affect the normal operation of the vehicle.

This DTC has been set erroneously and should be ignored.

A diagnostic procedure offers a new calibration when it is available.

It may not be possible to clear this DTC.


===END PCM===

===PCM DTC P1402:16-AF===
Code: P1402 - EGR valve position sensor / wiring

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Circuit Voltage Below Threshold

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module
===END PCM===

===PCM DTC P0403:1B-28===
Code: P0403 - EGR Control Circuit

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Circuit Resistance Above Threshold

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module
===END PCM===

===PCM DTC P068A:00-28===
Code: P068A - ECM/PCM Power Relay De-Energized - Too Early

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

This DTC may be caused by :

An intermittent fault.

Damaged or faulty relay

Damaged or contaminated connector

Check the wiring and the appropriate fuse.

There could be a intermittent wiring fault. Check the wiring harness.


===END PCM===

===PCM DTC P0190:15-2F===
Code: P0190 - FRP Sensor

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Circuit Short To Battery Or Open

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Possible causes :

Electrical connectors not fully engaged

Inspect connectors for signs of damage, water ingress, corrosion, etc.

Short circuit in wiring or component.

Open circuit in wiring or component

Experience has shown that the symptoms of this fault are:

Lack of Power

PCL On

Do not renew any components until all pinpoints associated with this DTC are complete.


===END PCM===

===OBDII DTC P1402-C===
Code: P1402 - EGR system fault.

Status:
- Confirmed - malfunction is confirmed

Module: On Board Diagnostic II

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

EGR system fault.

Follow the routines in the service manual to resolve the DTC listed.


===END OBDII===

===ABS DTC C1A93:14-2B===
Code: C1A93 - Right rear wheel speed sensor

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Circuit Short To Ground Or Open

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Antilock braking system

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Rear Right Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit

Possible causes are:

Rear right speed sensor open circuit

Rear right speed sensor short circuit

The right rear wheel speed sensor input signal missing or the signal is not plausible.

DO NOT replace the ABS module based on this DTC alone.

Perform these checks

Check the right rear WSS connectors and wiring harness for open and short circuits.

Check that the WSS is properly installed.

Check the condition of all cables and connectors for broken cables, damaged insulation, contamination, water ingress and loose connections.

Check the ABS module connections for damage, water ingress or corrosion . If any contamination is found, clean the connector and ABS module terminals.

Sensor replacement must only be carried out after the following checks are performed.

Check the connector for damage or contamination.

Check for an open circuit in the wiring harness.

The sensor was previously disconnected, check the sensor connector.

Check for a short circuit to the ground or battery.

Check that the supply voltage to the ECU is approximately 12 volts with the ignition in position II.

Disconnect the sensor. Check that the supply voltage at the sensor connector wiring harness is approximately 12 volts, with the ignition in position II.

If there is no voltage the possible fault is the main wiring harness, connector or ECU module.

The WSS Or Encoder Ring Are Damaged

Check that the WSS is not damaged, contaminated or incorrectly installed. Also check for water ingress in the connections.

Check that the air gap between the WSS and tone wheel is not greater than 2.1mm.

The encoder wheel is damaged or contaminated

Check the tone wheel for contamination and damage.

Check the tone wheel is mounted correctly.

Check for even tire sizes and pressures as per the manufacturer's specification.

Check tires and wheels for damage or poor repair.

The tires installed may have different outside diameters.

If a tire mismatch is suspected, swap the tires from front to rear axle and drive the vehicle over 10 mph/15 kph. The ABS lamp remains on until 10 mph/15 kph even when the fault is fixed. If the lamp stays on above 10 mph/15 kph, re-check the DTCs. If a different wheel speed sensor is now faulty, there is a wheel/tire fault issue.

A wheel bearing is worn or loose.

The WSS is checked dynamically while the vehicle is driven at speeds greater than 10 mph/15 kph. If there is a DTC set for the WSS, it is only cleared when the vehicle is driven at a speed greater than 10 mph/15kph. The ABS lamp remains illuminated until the WSS has been checked.

The ABS / TCS lamps will remain illuminated after the DTC has been cleared. They will extinguish after the vehicle has been driven at a speed greater than 10 mph / 15kph.

The ABS module should only be replaced if the above checks have been vehicleried out.

DO NOT CLEAR THE DTCs.

To replace and configure a new ABS module, the following procedure should be followed.

Turn the ignition key to ON (Position II),.and wait for 30 seconds for the lamps to go out. During this time the ABS, EBD, TCS and ESP lamps are illuminated.

Turn the ignition key to OFF (Position 0).

Turn the ignition key to ON (Position II) and check that the ABS, EBD, TCS and ESP lamps are not illuminated after 3 seconds.

After the configuration procedure has been completed, check to make sure the DTC is not set on the new module.


===END ABS===

===ABS DTC U0401:86-2B===
Code: U0401 - Invalid Data Received From ECM/PCM

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Signal Invalid

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Antilock braking system

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Invalid Data Received From ECM/PCM

The TCS or ESP lamp are illuminated.

There may be DTCs in the PCM.

The ABS module has received invalid data from the PCM.

The PCM is setting the failure bit.

Check the PCM for DTCs.

Do not replace the ABS module based on this DTC alone, unless a fault or physical damage is found.

After the vehicle has been repaired, clear the DTC. Check to make sure it does not occur again after the ignition has been on (position II) for over 30 seconds.

After clearing the DTC, it is not set again if the fault still persists until the ignition is ON (Position II) for at least 30 seconds.


===END ABS===

===BCMii DTC ===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Body Control Module
===END BCMii===

===RCM DTC B1318===
Code: B1318 - Battery voltage Low

Module: Restraint Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Battery voltage Low

Possible causes are:

Battery voltage line - open or short

Poor battery condition


===END RCM===

[knobby1]

Have you actually checked and "load tested" the battery....??

I still think there's a connection/earth issue there somewhere, just too many codes to be realistic. There's also a lot of references to "electrical connectors" and/or "continuity shorts" etc in amongst that lot.

Lord Knobrot

[Cheese Monkey]

Check battery? Knackered battery + electronics = demons

[ake]

Theres egr faults there, so temporarily blank that to rule it out, there's also fuel pressure codes so check the prv, it's probably blown and letting fuel pressure drop at start up, similarly a faulty injector could also cause fuel pressure problems, so the need to be tested.
None of the codes present suggest a timing issue, and whilst that doesn't rule it out, it points you to look at other issues

Blank egr first, then try it, check prv, replace if blown, you should be able to use live data on Forscan to see if the timing synchronisation is correct.

[Colin K]

Hello guys,
Thanks for all of your pointers and going to. He h them all out along the way. Rubbish week our other van a Mk6 had a water pump go Monday, Fixed it along with power steering pump to get it working. Next day a 17 yr old chinese lad in a brand new Audi wrote it off. Aaah old tub had done 231000 be sorry to lose her. Bought another swb mk7 for the lad who we employ.

I had the timing cover off so had an hour tonight to try lining up the timing marks. No gold links on my chain?
The right hand cog lines up and can fit a 6mm drill but the left hand one looks a bit out ??(perhaps one link). Wonder what you guys think?

Cheers, Col.

20171008_181712_resized.jpg

[Colin K]

Ps found my copy of Haynes can find the prv now

Cheers again.

[knobby1]

When the crank is 50 degrees before TDC of #1using an alignment tool in the crank sensor hole....the cams "should" line up with the marks (with 6mm drill bits in them) and there should also be gold/brass coloured links which match up as well.

Lord Knobrot

[bambi mk 1]

The timing is out http://dohertytransitparts.com/engine-t ... 2006-2011/

[Colin K]

Hello guys,
Thank you for the replies. Lined up all the timing holes and there is some difference between the two top cogs with the left hand one being about two teeth out. Im sort of thinking that the adjuster is powered up by oil pressure to take up the slack and so playing with it on my drive the chain is going to be loose? When I push and pull the adjuster plunger its pretty stiff and gritty!
Is it a common thing with the Mk7 2.4 for this to happen?
Is there any rule of thumb as to what you can get away with in this situation or am I going to be stuffed. I guess its dependant on the clearance between the pistons and valves?
She starts but runs megga rough. As a way forward And wanting to eventually sell her as a runner I am thinking that the timing kit would be a good start as I will need one anyway. Wondered if I should replace that and give her a try or strip it further to see if anything bent.

Any help would be appreciated and thanks so much for the help so far.

Cheers, Colin.

[knobby1]

If she's moved two teeth or more the rocker ladder "may" be cracked/broken or she's pulled the bolts, unlikely to bend valves as they are straight-on to the pistons.

Best to remove rocker cover and inspect for damage, fit a new timing chain kit and you should be good to go. Yes, the tensioner is reliant on oil pressure, that's why it's not a good idea to bump start Transits...you'll notice there's only 5-6 teeth in contact with the inlet can sprocket as opposed to ~14-15 teeth on the exhaust cam sprocket...doesn't take much for them to jump if the chain/tensioner is a tad loose.

Lord Knobrot

[amlav]

If she's moved two teeth or more the rocker ladder "may" be cracked/broken or she's pulled the bolts, unlikely to bend valves as they are straight-on to the pistons.

Best to remove rocker cover and inspect for damage, fit a new timing chain kit and you should be good to go. Yes, the tensioner is reliant on oil pressure, that's why it's not a good idea to bump start Transits...you'll notice there's only 5-6 teeth in contact with the inlet can sprocket as opposed to ~14-15 teeth on the exhaust cam sprocket...doesn't take much for them to jump if the chain/tensioner is a tad loose.

Lord Knobrot

+1 .Realign the chain starting with crankshaft lock at the crankshaft sensor on the flywheel than align the rest . Ohh....But before you do this check the rocker lader (cam carrier).

[Colin K]

If she's moved two teeth or more the rocker ladder "may" be cracked/broken or she's pulled the bolts, unlikely to bend valves as they are straight-on to the pistons.

Best to remove rocker cover and inspect for damage, fit a new timing chain kit and you should be good to go. Yes, the tensioner is reliant on oil pressure, that's why it's not a good idea to bump start Transits...you'll notice there's only 5-6 teeth in contact with the inlet can sprocket as opposed to ~14-15 teeth on the exhaust cam sprocket...doesn't take much for them to jump if the chain/tensioner is a tad loose.

Lord Knobrot

Thanks a lot both clear as a bell! Wow i see what you mean about the amount of teeth touching the chain on the r/h cog.

Be daft as u say not to check the cam carrier. To take the rocker cover off is it just the injector pipes off so u can lift it off or something more involved? I have got a Haynes but by Joe the pictures are crap.

I have ordered a cam chain kit to include the cover the one I took off is pretty manky.

Once again thanks for your help and will update.

Cheers, Col.

[knobby1]

Thanks a lot both clear as a bell! Wow i see what you mean about the amount of teeth touching the chain on the r/h cog.
Be daft as u say not to check the cam carrier. To take the rocker cover off is it just the injector pipes off so u can lift it off or something more involved? I have got a Haynes but by Joe the pictures are crap.
I have ordered a cam chain kit to include the cover the one I took off is pretty manky. Once again thanks for your help and will update. Cheers, Col.

You'll need to remove the injectors to get the rocker cover off...they usually come out reasonably easily unless there's a lot of carbon and crud on the injectors...You'll then need to clean the injector bores and make sure the sealing faces are clean and flat...if necessary they may need re-facing with a 17mm seat refacing tool similar to this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/7pc-Diesel-I ... SwARZXl~4I

If the seats are not in good nick, you'll be doing it again in the not too distant future. Then new copper sealing washers and injector clamp bolts. Torque is 6nm + 180 degrees..! Job done..!

Lord Knobrot

[Colin K]

Hello chaps,
As always thanks for the help. I have got the full timing kit here now and just about to start work. Just got to get the bottom cog off the cramkshaft I see this has another chain on it and it has a tensioner too? Guessing you compress it to get the other chain off. Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Quick question. The road outside is a bit busy today I wondered if it was critical to put a 13 mm pin in the crankshaft sensor hole or whether I can count the cogs ? One you tube video says you can count two and a half cogs back and thats ok. About 10 o clock then.
Hoping to have it done in daylight bought a new chain cover as well the old one was a bit ratty.

Cheers, Col.

Ps new chain has got marks on the chain but the old one didnt.