Mk7 2.2 85ps ticking/knocking

[tjm07]

1st post chaps!
I have acquired a swb 08 transit 6 seater 130k. Plans are to use it as a family outings bus, and my daily driver to and from work. I collected van from a garage and towed it home. A family friend owned it, had a problem, had it looked at and decieded against repairing it, It had been sitting at the garage for a year from what I can gather. So towed it home, tried to start it, could get it to fire with some easy start type stuff, would only run if the nuts were revved out of it. So compression test showed nothing on number 4, so engine out, sure enough piston broken. New piston installed, bore wasn't too bad, looked as though it had picked up material off the piston more than anything, so honed it and put back together. Put it in van, reassembled with new head gasket and bolts. Now van starts and runs, ticks over beautifully, under load has a tick knock, changed injector seals, noise still present, and if anything getting worse, travelled 5miles in it and noise is definitely louder. So pulled engine back out complete, what to do next?? Strip and inspect, paying attention to big ends and little ends?

[tjm07]

Some photos of progress so far

[tjm07]

All help and advice will be greatly received. Although I may sometimes sound like I know what I'm talking about, this is the 1st time I've tinkered with the internals of an engine, In the past I have just fitted replacement engines, but it seems there's a premium on these engines £1000+

[ake]

Were injectors overhauled?
Piston damage is caused by overfuelling, caused by faulty injector

[tjm07]

Injectors not overhauled, but did do leak back test, as pic, not a lot of difference, thought it looked ok?

[ake]

Injectors not overhauled, but did do leak back test, as pic, not a lot of difference, thought it looked ok?

Leak back won't diagnose overfuelling injector

[tjm07]

Thanks for reply, as said i am quite new to this. So you recommend having them tested by an injector specialist. Have you seen the pictures? When looking at the piston you can see it has come into contact with the valve at some point, i wondered if this caused the crack, possibly from bump starting? It's all guess work as I have no history on the van. Thanks again

[tjm07]

Thoughts and theories on why the brand new piston has a valve mark on it? Timing still looks good and was timed using pins?

[tjm07]

Stripped engine, found nothing untoward, ordered big end bearings as they were slightly scored, don't think it's anything to do with noise but might as well change while I am at this level. Had a similar valve mark on the same valve on number 3 as well. Removed both valves checked, removed gunk from stem seals and put back. No play felt in little ends, guess I will reassemble paying particular attention when timing back up, especially on the relationship between the suspect valves and pistons, last time I assembled in the van, this time the engine came out complete so will go back in complete, so I will be able to clearly see timing marks etc. Anyone else have any suggestions or opinions? Thanks

[DAZZ]

just been reading through this post, I'm no expert - far from it,
can't help wondering if the tapping noise is piston hitting the valve??
does the associated valve move freely and is not sticking open?
Is the cam shaft in one piece and not broken ?

[amlav]

Now that you've got it out check the cam carrier and rack above the head for loose bolts . If any of them feel like thread not holding than it could have a damaged cam carier .Also have a look at the camshafts . From your pictures I would say piston hitting valve could be timing chain one tooth still miss aligned (maybe). One the same note crankshaft wear on piston 4 due to overfueling could cause knocking noise . Eventualy turn crankshaft back and forth slowly and see if piston 4 moves stright away without lagging . It will be a bit hard to notice any lag by feel or naked eye usualy should use some measuring device .

[tjm07]

Thank you for your replies, I am of the same opinion that the noise is the piston coming into contact with the valve. As said have had valve out checked found no issue so refitted. I don't know enough about timing these engines up, I obviously used timing pins in camshafts and flywheel, but I understand there is minor adjustments on the cam shafts by undoing the 3 bolts and rotating, could this be my issue? This could have been the original fault, cracking the initial piston, and I have just put it back as before?

[amlav]

Setting up timing should be easy if engine out just make sure you start with crank shaft locked than line up the rest .
When i did mine I just tried to do the 3 bolts on the camshaft sprockets to line up with old bolt head markings . Do not think would be any issue if a litle bit off to left or right . Don't despair , just take your time and check as much as you can before putting it back togheter . I can see you prety meticoulos and quite sure you'll get there . Don't know what should be the clearence between piston and valves at TDC , maybe others can help here . If compression is fairly equal on all cylinders would suggest good alignment .

[tjm07]

Thanks for the advice, I think I've got it clear in my head now, last time I didn't release the bolts on camshafts. Being an exhaust valve that's hitting the piston it would have to be open when the piston is on the upward stroke, then close just before piston gets there to expel exhaust gases? So if there was an amount of slack between the pulleys when I set it last time this could cause the valve to close slightly late meaning it will just come into contact with piston?? Does that sound feasible?

[knobby1]

Just a thought....there's three "different thickness" head gaskets available for these animals, 1.10mm...1.15mm & 1.20mm....be sure you've fitted the correct one.

See here:

http://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l= ... I1NzgrMTMz

Apart from cam timing being out....it could be the difference between valves touching pistons or not.

Lord Knobrot