Starter motor solenoid mk6 2.4 2000

[mnxtrany]

2.4 Duratorq mk6 yr 2000.
Starter motor.
Van stopped last Friday 29 09 17 evening. Fortunately it was where I park it near the house.
It started with a faint noise which I seem to have heard before. Turned the key to stop and the engine was still turning over rather quickly. Key to run and the engine noise picked up (diesel injected) with the faint noise, key to stop and the engine kept turning over - not slowly -. Eventually the engine stopped. Started again and key to off = engine turning over - key to run and eng' running on diesel - key to stop - brake warning light on - speedo bouncing - eventually the engine stopped. Thought it's the starter motor. Key to start and no consul lights all dead. Battery check showed no V. Battery disconnected showed 11V. Battery on charge after a few hours 12.25V. Next morning still 12.25V put on charge again and hours later at 12.35V. That evening put the battery on charge over night and on Sunday morning it's at 11V.
Checked for continuity B+ to B- cables = continuity sometimes. Had van drivers door open. Doors closed and through window got continuity and then none.
Got starter out and found that the contact plate on the end of the solenoid piston had broken off. Piston tight in bore. Rust/debri in/on the piston/bore. So the piston was sticking. The contact plate left in contact across the terminals. Pos' the piston sticking with the contact plate in contact.
Monday got new battery £105. Starter from internet £64 looked the same as others at £148 +. Spoke to Decker he said at 64 it'll be reconditioned.
So why no consul lights - immobiliser, damaged unit or what, perhaps a dodgy recon' starter?
Frustration looking at Wk shp manual CD. Did continuity check on B+ and B- cables, B+ to earth, checked fuses all seemed okay.
Cleaned ends of wiring to starter motor solenoid and decided to clean eng/chassis earth strap and later B- cable to chassis.
Internet indicated fuse in B- cable which I did not see until I went to disconnect the B- cable at the chassis connection. The fuse was okay.
Both contacts were rusted, no shiny metal, I wondered how the electricity got across. Where the tabs met the chassis metal there was paint. Both bolts had to be eased back and forth whilst applying TBbuddy. So cleaned up contact areas, bolts, used vaseline on assembly.
Put new battery in (13V) checked for parasitic draw amps - van door closed. There isn't a switch on the door frame - it's probably where the latch is inside the door.
Thursday fitted new (recon') starter - lost one nut fortunately had old nuts. Difficult job not much room. Difficult when on my back needed support under my head to see area of starter. On fitting found it easier than taking it off.
Needed 2 or 3 small torches which could be positioned to give more light. Bonnet was blown closed by wind.
Used Vaseline on contacts/nuts. Checked and put Vaseline on solenoid contacts prior to fitting.
Taking starter off used socket extensions on fitting didn't need the extensions. Could do with a more than 6" 150mm long 13mm offset ring for bolt at the back of the starter.
Nut on solenoid terminal for power from key was 11mm on old and 10mm on new starter unit.