Dry noise in cab

[mnxtrany]

The noise in the cab is like a dry bearing or a kind of hiss like steam coming from a cooker relief vv.
The noise seemed more on the lhs; when the lhs front road wheel was turned it stuck, back and forth released it. I removed the wheel - which was rusted on - found rust on the discs outside of the shinny area, more so on the inner the pad of which was more worn on the out side of the wear area (rust).
Took the caliper off and cleaned of the rust as best could. Made sure the pads could move. Filed off the rust on the piston perimeters. All back together and the disc revolved easily pressed the brake pedal, released it and the disc was difficult to turn. The noise was lessened but the next day was just as loud.
The noise starts at around 20 mph, pressing the brake pedal makes no difference to the noise but as the vehicle slows the noise reduces in volume.

Sat 14 and Sun 15th or Oct 2017. Removed both calipers cleaned off rust, ground off rust from discs, put calipers back together using copper grease as required, discs rotate freely, apply brake pedal and both discs have pads binding on discs, opened con'' on flexi pipe to metal pipe and fluid came out same at flexi con' to caliper, went for a run and noise is still there.

Have now got two new flexi pipes because there could be internal failure of the pipe and caliper repair kits as maybe the pistons are sticking or there is dirt behind the pistons.

Has anyone got a drawing of the caliper? Does anyone know if the hydraulic fluid is bleed from the bottom of the caliper or is it from the top?

[mnxtrany]

On Saturday a passenger listened and found the noise came from the lhs front.
Doing full L and R turns a squeak was heard after several turns one loud squeak was heard then no more and no more dry noise until later when driving back the dry noise was still present.
Prior to Saturday the rust on both discs and calipers was removed - the dry noise was still there.

[ned]

I would be putting new discs and pad on, you may have a slight warp in the disc. N

[mnxtrany]

Thank you for your input.
There is a slight warp on the lhs disc.
On Saturday the passenger thought the noise was constant (bum high, head out the window) rather than once within a revolution as a warped disc could make however the squeak was not constant ( I the driver only heard one squeak).
I have got two caliper repair kits and two flexi hoses which I'll use first.
Getting the hub/disc off can be difficult from what I have seen on the internet.

[the dutch guy]

Getting the hub/disc off can be difficult from what I have seen on the internet.

if you cannot solve a problem with a hammer you can solve it with a bigger hammer.

[mnxtrany]

I'm not big enough to swing a hammer that could be big enough.

[the dutch guy]

I'm not big enough to swing a hammer that could be big enough.

that is why they invented power tools.

[mnxtrany]

28 10 17

Done both front calipers with seal kits. Lots of rust. The bottom two pistons seemed slow to come out. Getting the groves and seats clear of rust was difficult. Rhs flexi seemed blocked. Could not find out what size the bleed nipples are, seemed to have been 11mm rusted down to 10 mm, used the laser special socket which when hammered on got the bleed nipples out. Used heat on the bracket screws and bleed nipples as well as several applications of TB buddy over the last week or so.
Brake fluid was clear when it first came out as more drained out it became darker.
In the tank the fluid appears dark. Noticed that new clear fluid added to the tank also appeared dark when in the tank. Difficult to get at tank filler.

£60 plus pp for one caliper not including the slider part. Spent about 4 days in all doing the front brakes. Spent about £35 for parts, caliper kits and two flexi hoses.
The discs measured 23.7 and 23.4 mm thickness max# is 24.5mm. So must be recent discs as the van is 17 yrs old. I have had it 9 yrs. The pads were about 10mm thick.

The hiss dry noise is still there the same intensity etc. Applying the brakes does not change the sound. The sound is continuous from about 15mph up. The sound is not at regular intervals as a warped disc could make.
Not sure if the brakes are any better - did several hard stops and the van slowed quickly.

Used a 13mm end on the gas torch didn't get the bolts red hot. Did not find any smaller torch ends. Found it better to heat the head of the bolt as the protruding threaded end with the flame on it did not seem to heat up. The other torch ends 14 and 17 mm could have been too big. Bottled gas propane. Really need more and concentrated heat - Oxyacetylene.

Did not use the gator grip socket with the pins in for removing rounded off bolts heads it needs the width of the socket around the bolt head for access. The laser one worked okay.

Need to make/have tool to scrape/clean out seal grove in bore, on top of piston and outer seal seat. Need something like a floppy grind disc on long shaft to access clean bore grove and outer seal seat. Need small rotary wire brush to clear out bore grove, piston grove and outer seal seat.

[mnxtrany]

29 10 17 Had the rear end up wheels off the ground with the engine running engaged 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears and reved it up. A noise similar to the in cab noise was present in 4th gear with some revs on the engine. Found the lhs rear wheel was not turning freely. Wheels off and removed rust from drum where it meets the backing plate - lots of rust. Eventually got the drum off it was very dirty inside, the rearmost shoe is about half the thickness of the forward shoe. Removed rust from the inside of the drum and its edge. Cleaned the shoes and parts on the back plate with brake cleaner. Didn't do a very good job as it was getting late. Put it back together and greased as necessary for easy disassemble next time. Wheels turn easier. Found the handbrake cables did not have the same tension on them when in the relaxed position.
Van seems to go a bit better without the brake drag.

The in cab dry noise is still there.

[mnxtrany]

Still have dry hiss noise in cab when on the move. New noise today Monday 30 10 17. Noise in second gear slowly coming down a hill. Vehicle stopped out of gear eng' running. Press in clutch rattle/gear noise starts - clutch fully in noise stops - clutch out no noise. Hear it better when outside of the cab and using hand on clutch pedal, eng' running - press in noise starts, fully in noise stops, fully out noise stops. Eng' stopped = no noise.

Possibly clutch release bearing. Clutch fork/pivot.

Does anyone know how to get inside the bell housing to oil the clutch fork/pivot?

[mnxtrany]

31 10 17 Looked under van there does not seem to be a way to access the inside of the bell housing except by removing the hydraulic connection or starter motor. It seems that the clutch operating arm is horizontal across the vehicle/gearbox.
Pressed in/out clutch pedal eng' stopped (not started since yesterday) = no noise.
Started eng' at idle - clutch pedal in/out = no noise.

The little people took the noise as theirs, they hung around until the early hours when the gearbox had cooled down then got in and took it away to their warm place, maybe they'll put it someone else's vehicle.
Could be only there when the gearbox is warmed up, maybe it'll be put back when the little ones have had enough of it.