Swapping fuel pump 2.0l Duratorq 75ps to 85ps

[ned]

Forgot to say it much easier to get to by crawling right under past the subframe N

[White2Blue]

Ha, yea it is... I can see how it would be so easy with a proper ramp or a pit... was gonna get the Mrs but I’m not sure she could turn the cranks or enjoy being under the van : ) definitely a must having work lights.

[White2Blue]

Got another hour or so on it and have the pump off.

The timing hole was a degree or so off and the 4 bolts are into more oval holes in the sprocket, so I guess there is a slight adjustment there... the three torx holes were perfectly lined up...will take a pic of the end of the pump one of the injector pipes was rusted onto it’s outlet bit on the pump... how could one get this off without heat as presumably thats not wise next to deisel lines... now it’s off I cant even get the two apart with one spanner under foot and a hammer on the outlet spanner... I have read that you’re supposed to fit new outlets and new pipes...as well as new ckp sensor.

Now to get it virginalised!

[White2Blue]

Just for reference for others, to explain why the three t45 bolts might line up perfectly but the timing hole on the moving part of the pump (where the 4 bolts go) might not, and may require the 4 bolts to be slackened a bit in order to twist the pump to get the timing pin in...the bolts on the back of the pump to the pump bracket would need undoing also. I don’t really see how the timing pin in the pump matters on removal of the pump, so long as the crank pin is in and you can access the three torx bolts.

Am i right or have I overlooked something? It makes sense to make sure the pin goes in when fitting the pump though!

[White2Blue]

The older, grubby pump is the 'working' pump, feels so wrong removing a clean thing to fit a dirty thing!

Had some good time on it today despite the cold : ) Had to get the Mrs to do minute turns of the crank pulley while I was holding the timing pin in the flywheel hole...got a bit tiresome going under the van to tweak the pulley to get back under and find it not quite right... it is a tight fit!

Removed all the bits required from the new van, removed the pump after crank pin in. Fitted new one way outlets to the old pump...one had seized onto the injector pipe : ) fitted on to new van with new gasket. Had to use my modified T45 bit again as I ordered another set, but still the shank was too wide!

When tightening the 4 x 10mm bolts through the sprocket into the fuel pump with the 6mm timing pin in, it obviously tweaks the chain a little, so I had to slacken them off and hold the pump shaft by the 22mm bolt while tightening to keep the timing spot on so the pin could move in and out... is very tight though.
Fitted the old FIP cover as it looked good and the rubber seal around the edge was still looking good. Fitted the old high pressure fuel lines to the injectors but haven't done them up, fitted new copper washers to the low pressure supply to the pump Fitted new filter...can't seem to get the Mann 1803, only 1805, is a bit longer but fitting seems the same...brimmed with diesel.

Couldn't get the hand pump to fit to any of the fuel supply lines, so I need to find a way of joining to those quick release connectors! Any tips welcome!

[Brains_transit]

Only use a genuine ford filter then you'll not run into any extra headaches

[White2Blue]

Ah ok thanks!

I thought the Mann ones were fine as both transits had them on when they were working...

[White2Blue]

Yippee!

After having a bit of a nightmare trying to find bits to join to the fuel filter housing I managed to heat up the clear plastic pipes that came with the hand pump and fit them over the male metal connectors...the outlet on the fuel filter (I know ideally it would be just before the filter but then you join to the female quick connector from the tank) and the quick connector male metal part next to the cam cover. Filter brimmed, it pulled diesel through, but also allowed some back when letting go of the pump.
I tried various things, kept brimming the filter, tried the priming pump from the old transit (which had it on top of the fuel filter casing, no trouble to swap to mine) but it kept having alot of air in the tubes. Half a tank of diesel.
The fuel and presumably some air, was coming out of the injectors loads (no.1), but I couldn't get rid of the air. I gave up trying and thought that the pump does at least have diesel in for sure and the lines will be mostly diesel. I turned the engine 180 degrees and primed each injector line.

Petrified that the battery would give up before it did fire I thought I'd connect the battery from my other transit in parallel ( + to + and - to -), both batteries were fully trickle charged showing 12.8v.

Turned the key and left it for 5 mins then turned back to off, did it again for a minute just because...

Had to get the Mrs to do the 10 second cranks while I loosened off each injector to let bubbles out then little spurts would come out in time with the cranking so I tightened while still cranking, waited about a minute in between each attempt. Got to injector 4 and she was almost stuttering, went back to injector 1 on the next attempt and she started! Fair bit of white smoke, then some black smoke...the intake was quite coked up, last owner drove it real steady.

Left it to get warm while I cleared up, noticed some dripping fuel underneath and am not sure if it's residual from the earlier bleeding as there was a fair bit of fuel everywhere on the block (protected the starter and intake as much as poss). Definitely not injector connections, low pressure connections look good on the pump and everywhere I can see. Just can't really see the outlets on the pump as it's all back together...will have to check before MOT!

Many Thanks to all the advice mined on the forum, hope this can serve some use to someone!

[White2Blue]

Forgot to mention, new crank sensor turned up in the post, so that was fitted too...

[ned]

Result, sorry forgot to say I got a section of clear tube and some jubilee clip to attach the bulb pump to the filter housing Too late now, how does it drive? The fuel could be from removing the filter and cranking the injectors. N

[karl]

look at the repairs to the wiring on them wires

[White2Blue]

Yea drives lovely, first few hard accelerations produced some smoke but thats mostly gone, much quicker than the other van...but it is empty! I’m hoping the dripping was the excess from bleeding the system...
Gearbox, clutch all feel good : ) I’ll be stripping the gear actuator thing and cables off the old one as they weren’t long fitted.
The last owner really took good care of it. No dents on the bodywork, 46k on the clock, interior and the back are mint!

Yea I did the metering solenoid on the older now fitted pump, if I remember the crimps didn’t work well so I soldered them!!! That was before I knew the damage it could have caused to the ecu!, heat sheild is on just decided to put crappy insulation tape on it : )

Does anyone know if there’s a way to find out if the internals of the pump that came off are knackered? I emptied the filter and it only had a few specs of stuff in and the injectors must be fine so it can’t have broken up much... I wondered if the guy who fitted the ‘repaired’ecu back on the original pump had connected the wires incorrectly...

[karl]

Yea drives lovely, first few hard accelerations produced some smoke but thats mostly gone, much quicker than the other van...but it is empty! I’m hoping the dripping was the excess from bleeding the system...
Gearbox, clutch all feel good : ) I’ll be stripping the gear actuator thing and cables off the old one as they weren’t long fitted.
The last owner really took good care of it. No dents on the bodywork, 46k on the clock, interior and the back are mint!

Yea I did the metering solenoid on the older now fitted pump, if I remember the crimps didn’t work well so I soldered them!!! That was before I knew the damage it could have caused to the ecu!, heat sheild is on just decided to put crappy insulation tape on it : )

Does anyone know if there’s a way to find out if the internals of the pump that came off are knackered? I emptied the filter and it only had a few specs of stuff in and the injectors must be fine so it can’t have broken up much... I wondered if the guy who fitted the ‘repaired’ecu back on the original pump had connected the wires incorrectly...

take the back of the pump( the bid square were the fuel solenoid fits ) of and inside their is a cam plate and these do were for crap diesel or water damage I have took a few apart now and its always the cam plate knackered if it under power ie the van runs but not as it should. And the other one id the dreaded pump codes

[White2Blue]

Great rhanks,

Will take a look at some point!

[White2Blue]

Just a finale,

Removed the intake again and had a good mop up and gave everything a good clean. I'm pretty sure there was just diesel dropping down from where it had pooled... but I tightened up the nuts to the pump a little, put just the intake on and ran the engine to check, no leaks.

All back together, still no leaks, blanked EGR and off to MOT tomorrow!