redbox4wheels wrote:Thanks andz327 - Checked that and looks OK, not touching and no wear but can see where you mean.
Ive had basic EML327 reader on it today and i get NO codes for Stored, Pending, Permanent.
But i get a pile of number for OTHER.? (whats OTHER relate to.?)
this is what i get.
U3F251A
P2F1293
P281294
P280000
P251A00
P129300 (is this injectors.?)
P129400
P000000
P040472 (this shows when reading first thing AM before starting, not there once started vehicle - StuckOpen EGR.?! or is it just in open position)
P062B16 (sometimes doesnt show, is this injectors!)
P010036 (disappeared once started once)
I was thinking of putting a secondhand fuel pump on to see if it was that (secondhand was about £50 and to have mine tested here was 140euro.!), but also now thinking of giving up and going to ford to read and diagnose. I originally thought egr because id had one fail previously.
Anyone familiar with latest bit of info above and have any thoughts.
knobby1 wrote:redbox4wheels wrote:Thanks andz327 - Checked that and looks OK, not touching and no wear but can see where you mean.
Ive had basic EML327 reader on it today and i get NO codes for Stored, Pending, Permanent.
But i get a pile of number for OTHER.? (whats OTHER relate to.?)
this is what i get.
U3F251A
P2F1293
P281294
P280000
P251A00
P129300 (is this injectors.?)
P129400
P000000
P040472 (this shows when reading first thing AM before starting, not there once started vehicle - StuckOpen EGR.?! or is it just in open position)
P062B16 (sometimes doesnt show, is this injectors!)
P010036 (disappeared once started once)
I was thinking of putting a secondhand fuel pump on to see if it was that (secondhand was about £50 and to have mine tested here was 140euro.!), but also now thinking of giving up and going to ford to read and diagnose. I originally thought egr because id had one fail previously.
Anyone familiar with latest bit of info above and have any thoughts.
The codes you have quoted don't make any sense, there's too many numbers in them....however P1293 & P1294 point to injector/wiring issue...I'd be checking all the injector looms back to the PCM for breaks/continuity. The injectors themselves don't usually fail electrically, they just wear out mechanically. The TDCi pumps rarely fail....
Lord Knobrot
redbox4wheels wrote:i thought that, it was read with app called car scanner that gave all those, some sounded sort of relevant like P062B16 (internal control modual fuel injector) and P04047 EGR stuck open. Also tried another app earlier and it had error codes of only, P1293 and P1294 (and P251A).
Will check wiring as best i can tomorrow am, but think it maybe visual inspection only for my abilities on that.
Thinking checking the washers and o rings also for the return side of them causing the pressure drop and cutting out thanks again for all tips.
knobby1 wrote:redbox4wheels wrote:i thought that, it was read with app called car scanner that gave all those, some sounded sort of relevant like P062B16 (internal control modual fuel injector) and P04047 EGR stuck open. Also tried another app earlier and it had error codes of only, P1293 and P1294 (and P251A).
Will check wiring as best i can tomorrow am, but think it maybe visual inspection only for my abilities on that.
Thinking checking the washers and o rings also for the return side of them causing the pressure drop and cutting out thanks again for all tips.
Try Forscan with your ELM327, we find it works well and will show real-time rail pressures etc...
http://www.forscan.org/download.html
The washers and "O"rings won't cause lack of pressure at the injectors. Fuel rail pressure drop could be the PRV dead but I think you've looked at that. The PCM will cut power to the injectors if the rail pressure drops too low or the pressure doesn't rise enough during cranking...hence the non-start.
I wonder if the pressure/temp sensor on the end of the rail is faulty..??
Lord Knobrot
v8dave wrote:If you only look at the first 5 characters of those codes then they are sensible.
The two extra characters might be allowed by the international standard the specifies that first five for the manufacturer to convey extra information.
The BIG problem looking the codes up on the internet is that the same numbers are used for petrol and diesel engines.
If these codes are at initial switch on rather than stored then they are probably no help in diagnosing your problem.
P0100 is a generic mass flow sensor code, getting that while the engine is not running is to be expected.
P062B is an injection fault, but only ford ids is likely to point you at what to check because only ford know what their 16 code means.
P0404 is an egr code but like the mass flow code getting it before engine starts is expected, egr flow/position is calculated based on the mass flow and while that sensor value is erroneous the egr can not be set properly.
P0000 is not a valid code, simples.
P1xxx numbers are manufacturer specific.
P1294 and P1293 could be wiring issues on the injector feeds. These could be four individually wired to each injector with the power and earth a twisted pairs ( twisted pairs are electrically better for the switched power involved ) or could be paired earths with injectors 1&4 and 2&3 as the pairs.
P251A is your pto switch is off, unless you have a power take off I'd suggest you need to update your ecu calibration.
P2800 refers to the drive select switch on automatics but could be your in reverse.
P2812 is also for automatic transmissions and should mean no gearbox oil pressure.
P2F12 has the internet stumped but could be a misread of P1293
Uxxxx codes are Network errors, it could be a problem on the vehicle or with the code reader.
I'd suggest the following checks before buying more parts.
Battery drop test.
Battery terminals clean and secure.
Battery earth good.
Starter motor terminals clean and secure.
Cables at jump start point by engine bay fuse box clean and secure.
Relays and fuses in the engine fuse box clean and secure.
Injector plugs clean and secure.
ECU plugs clean and secure, on a mk 7 these are under an anti-tamper cover which slides off after you drill out the remains of a shear bolt.
ECU Earth, this is on the inner wing behind the ecu.
Fuel filter full of fuel before attempting to start first time in the day.
I appreciate you might have done some of these yourself, don't trust that anyone else has.
If everything is good then do a power test on each injector circuit wire, you'll need a copy of the wiring diagram - I can give you that
A source of power and a 5 watt light bulb.
You power the light bulb through the wire you are testing, if it is not as bright as when power direct from the power source then the wire is a problem.
Don't bother with a multimeter check of resistance, it does not use as much power as the injector takes to open it. Damaged wires restrict power.
HTH
Just seen the messages while i've been typing.
The return pipework will be at less than air pressure while the engine is running, air leaks in rather than fuel leaking out.
The soft injector return coupling o rings are very easy to damaged when pushing the couplings into the injectors, you need to grease them to fit them.
The fuel pressure sensor is on the fuel rail, the fuel temperature sensor is on the fuel pump.
redbox4wheels wrote:Q. Can a Pump and Injector learn have varying degrees of quality, ie can different kit do a different job or if its done its done.
v8dave"The start, stall then not restart does sound like air in the fuel system but why does it then start an hour later ?
If the air is still there then it still need priming.
Jamber2166 wrote:If there is air in the system then heat within the rail will cause pressure fluctuations that could cause this effect; so temprature would be a factor. Air can be compressed, which would be directly affected by the heat in the rail as it expands and contracts. Also, the air is displacing the fuel! The feedback from the rail sensor may indicate the rail pressure to be fine where air is present!
I would expect to see rail pressure codes if it was so bad, but that would depend if it fell outwith the calibrated spec of sensor and the ecu. Diesels are unforgiving when it comes to fuel metering.
If compression is good, the inputs are good (cam and crank signals etc) then it only leaves fuel as the problem, other than some sort of freak timing issue that's just occured.
It's pointless asking a guy with a £10 code reader to diagnose this kind of complaint. If he's checked the basics then it's time to entrust it to a competent garage.
Jamber2166 wrote:It sounds very much like there's a fuel delivery issue. it sounds as though the pump can generate enough pressure to start the van but once it's running the fuel is not keeping up with the engines' demand. A diesel engine requires a very precise fuel delivery as they use a SCV as a throttle, and requires good compression also!
Is the fuel filter good?
Jamber2166 wrote:You could ask someone with a lab scope, or a garage to do a quick relative compression test by measuring starter current draw with a current clamp around the battery cable. The peaks of the waveform on the scope will show starter current relative to compression pressures; a low peak or peaks would indicate a compression issue on it's respective cylinder. This is much faster than hooking up pressure gauges! You could also disable the fuel supply and listen to how the van cranks. It should sound consistant and even if the compression pressures are good.
Jamber2166 wrote:The fact that this has happened suddenly suggests that something has 'went'. I would focus on the fuel system and make sure you're getting good fuel delivery and the system is free of air.
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