bambi mk 1 wrote:Where are you in Ireland
I asked this question nearly a month ago For about £15 I would change the ign switch
bambi mk 1 wrote:Where are you in Ireland
bambi mk 1 wrote:bambi mk 1 wrote:Where are you in Ireland
I asked this question nearly a month ago For about £15 I would change the ign switch
karl wrote:every thing can be tested sounds to me the garage you are using doesn't know what they are doing with your transit and just using your money to solve the problem
we keep saying it time and time again ind someone who knows the vans and has the correct diagnostic software for them, snap-on,launch etc BUT nothing is better then using the software that is designed for these
my last job
I just done recommended from here took it to garage
they said nothing wrong with it but their was
Bluevanman! wrote:Oh dear so now mine says engine malfunction and won't let me turn it over. Left it an hour still says malfunction and won't let me turn over the engine. great.
redbox4wheels wrote:Hi BlueVanMan, yes sure is a pain,
mine locked me out once with engine fault light, ABS and another light. and wouldn't let me crank it. I waited 2hours went back and it had cleared. Think it may have over heated something trying to crank it too many times.!!.
mines sounding rougher and rougher and not trust worthy to drive now even once got going. i have 110k miles on it and had also hoped injectors were ok.
have tested or checked the fuel pump.? mine does sound like fuel is failing to get in, what i get is it fires up nice and easy first time and runs for 15 seconds,which to me says there is fuel in the system, but instead of being backed up with new fuel there is a break in supply and unless revved a good bit straight away it stalls.... and then will not start, i guess becasue no fuel in it at injectors or a little way back. BUT that doesnt explain how if i leave it a few hours then and come back it flipping starts again first time.
burning smell and what looks like bluey smoke is more worrysome for me with rough knocky noise. Im going to have to get on and sort it next week one way or another. Let me know if you get any pointers before me.
knobby1 wrote:redbox4wheels wrote:Hi BlueVanMan, yes sure is a pain,
mine locked me out once with engine fault light, ABS and another light. and wouldn't let me crank it. I waited 2hours went back and it had cleared. Think it may have over heated something trying to crank it too many times.!!.
mines sounding rougher and rougher and not trust worthy to drive now even once got going. i have 110k miles on it and had also hoped injectors were ok.
have tested or checked the fuel pump.? mine does sound like fuel is failing to get in, what i get is it fires up nice and easy first time and runs for 15 seconds,which to me says there is fuel in the system, but instead of being backed up with new fuel there is a break in supply and unless revved a good bit straight away it stalls.... and then will not start, i guess becasue no fuel in it at injectors or a little way back. BUT that doesnt explain how if i leave it a few hours then and come back it flipping starts again first time.
burning smell and what looks like bluey smoke is more worrysome for me with rough knocky noise. Im going to have to get on and sort it next week one way or another. Let me know if you get any pointers before me.
Have you not had it plugged in to read the codes..?? If not why not..?? It becomes a very expensive guessing game just replacing things for the fun of it..! A code read will give half an idea of where to start looking.
The PCM will "lock-out" the starter if it's used too much/overheated etc...All else being equal...these diesels only need fuel and compression to run. Usually if she starts and stops soon after it's an air leak on the inlet side of the pump, filter head or lines back to the pump....it's also possible the PRV has died which can give similar symptoms. As mentioned, guessing can become very expensive.
Lord Knobrot
On the fwd models the clear fuel pipe can be worn through to a pin hole by a rubber water hose sitting on it, and the rubber water hose actually sits on the hole and blocks the hole on and off so you get an intermittent fault that doesn't show up on computers....seen a few with this problem with mine being one of them, its the see through curly pipe from filter to pumpredbox4wheels wrote:knobby1 wrote:redbox4wheels wrote:Hi BlueVanMan, yes sure is a pain,
mine locked me out once with engine fault light, ABS and another light. and wouldn't let me crank it. I waited 2hours went back and it had cleared. Think it may have over heated something trying to crank it too many times.!!.
mines sounding rougher and rougher and not trust worthy to drive now even once got going. i have 110k miles on it and had also hoped injectors were ok.
have tested or checked the fuel pump.? mine does sound like fuel is failing to get in, what i get is it fires up nice and easy first time and runs for 15 seconds,which to me says there is fuel in the system, but instead of being backed up with new fuel there is a break in supply and unless revved a good bit straight away it stalls.... and then will not start, i guess becasue no fuel in it at injectors or a little way back. BUT that doesnt explain how if i leave it a few hours then and come back it flipping starts again first time.
burning smell and what looks like bluey smoke is more worrysome for me with rough knocky noise. Im going to have to get on and sort it next week one way or another. Let me know if you get any pointers before me.
Have you not had it plugged in to read the codes..?? If not why not..?? It becomes a very expensive guessing game just replacing things for the fun of it..! A code read will give half an idea of where to start looking.
The PCM will "lock-out" the starter if it's used too much/overheated etc...All else being equal...these diesels only need fuel and compression to run. Usually if she starts and stops soon after it's an air leak on the inlet side of the pump, filter head or lines back to the pump....it's also possible the PRV has died which can give similar symptoms. As mentioned, guessing can become very expensive.
Lord Knobrot
Hi Lord
yes there were no codes mentioned, i'll get done again though.
Yes done PRV and SCV and supposedly all the Learns correctly when put the new injectors in, and understand the Fuel Pumps dont usually give bother. PRV when removed was good (intact). yes agree, expensive waste not knowing. will check air leak visually somehow, nothing leaking out though visibly.
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