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Removing Mk7 vaporiser

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Removing Mk7 vaporiser

Postby Skinny » Sat Jan 20, 2018 11:16 am

IHia All, I've been working on solving my dpf issue today. I've been trying to remove the vaporiser from the flexible exhaust pipe on my fwd 2012 mk7 but am having a right problem with it. Does anyone know, is it easier to remove the whole dpf and flexible pipe as I just can't get the leverage from below with my spanner, it's super tight? Or do I get a long reach 22mm spanner to help.
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Re: Removing Mk7 vaporiser

Postby martynx » Fri Jan 26, 2018 5:13 pm

Use a snap on 22m combination ring spanner, (its really meaty), otherwise, remove exhaust yes.
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Re: Removing Mk7 vaporiser

Postby Skinny » Mon Feb 05, 2018 6:01 pm

Quick update on Diagnosing my 2012 Mk7 Transit DPF failing to regenerate and the soot content building. Thought I would write this to help any future people with the same problem. I had the usual cog and exclamation light come on and go off a few times and then the EML light came on and stayed on. At the time I didn’t have the diagnostics kit so used my RAC start from home, he ran a static regen which failed after 30 minutes or so, the soot content had not reduced. They didn’t offer much other help. The fault codes registered were P0672; Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit, P244C; Catalyst temperature too low during regeneration, bank 1 and P2463; Diesel Particulate filter – soot accumulated.

So I started my own diagnostic without any ECU interface at the time. (Pre checked all fuses, none had blown):


1. Check wiring at the exhaust loom multi-plugs for breaks. There were no obvious breaks which was a good sign.
2. I used a Multimeter to test, while the engine was running, that I was receiving 5V at each of the temp sensors multi-plugs. That checked out ok, so I removed the temp sensors, hooked the Multimeter up at the highest resistance setting and applied a heat gun to the sensors and watched the resistance reduce as its supposed too. There is a good YouTube video for this too if you search for it. This confirmed the Temp sensors were working correctly.
3. As I couldn’t initiate a static regen I couldn’t test the power to the Vaporiser glow plug but I checked its resistance by placing the Multimeter across the wiring connections on the Glow plug end of the multi-plug, 1 Ohm was a good value.
4. This left 4 possible failures, that I could think of, one there was no fuel being supplied to the Vaporiser, removing the fuel feed line off the pump it was full of fuel so I was happy with that.
5. Second the pressure differential sensor used to measure how blocked the DPF is by detecting the delta value across the DPF was failing or the pipes were blocked. I popped both of these off from the DPF and they looked in good nick. I suppose you could pop them off from the sensor and blow down them to check for a blockage but I didn’t as It seemed unlikely. Also this has never been mentioned as far as I am aware as a failure on the Transits so I dismissed it as very unlikely. Especially as I was getting a blocked reading to the ECU that the DPF needs regening.
6. Thirdly the DPF had somehow failed internally, there were a few cases I read online where they needed a replacement and everything else was working fine but my Van only has 50K so this seemed unlikely too.
7. Finally then I suspected the Vaporiser was blocked, this appeared to be a common fault stopping or reducing the amount of fuel being delivered into the exhaust gasses to raise the temperature to burn off the soot. I initially suspected this after the temp sensors checked out ok and the static regen did not reduce the soot load. I concluded the DPF was not getting up to temperature. (I should have checked the live data when the RAC guy did the static regen, I think they are supposed to hit around 600°C).

So to remove the Vaporiser, this was a tricky bugger and seemed near impossible to do while the exhaust was still in place. So I removed the two heat shields around the exhaust to give a little more access. I then removed all the wiring and disconnected the vaporiser fuel line. Undo the 3 nuts securing the flexible exhaust to the turbo and then remove the remaining exhaust restraints. I didn’t bother to split the back box off the DPF as its always a ballache trying to hammer them out and back in again so I just removed the entire exhaust train. Removing the exhaust took me approximately 2 hours to do. I could then crack the Vaporiser nut by inserting a rod into the flexible exhaust to restrain it and undoing the 22mm nut. One Vaporiser unit removed!

Now I didn’t have a vacuum kit to test for a blockage of the Vaporiser so I just did the blow test. Blowing down the metal fuel line (I’d remove the rubber tube) while holding the vaporiser nozzle underwater to check for bubbles. None came out so I was satisfied I had a blocked Vaporiser before spending over a hundred pounds on a replacement. I ordered one from ford (haggled to get trade price) and refitted it applying some copper brake grease to all the nuts/threads and reconnected the exhaust system.

Now to perform the static regen without the ECU interface, I chose to go for the Forscan diagnostic free download and ECU interface fromhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-USB-mo ... SwZVlXrBVO. This seemed to be cheaper than buying a VMC clone and risk getting dodgy software sent though. Unfortunately it didn’t arrive in time so I phoned my RAC and got them to investigate my EML light, he performed a static regen, I crossed my fingers and Wahay the soot load starts reducing down to an acceptable level…..Regen complete. At the end of the regen it had got through 60% and the soot load was at 0%. It then auto finished and the EML light went out. I assumed he reset the DPF values before he started the static regen, I can’t remember. So I am back on the road again with a happy van. No money wasted at the garage, a little time spent learning about diesel exhaust systems and plenty accomplished.

I hope this helps anyone else out with a similar problem.
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Re: Removing Mk7 vaporiser

Postby ake » Tue Feb 06, 2018 4:52 pm

Good write up, thanks
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Re: Removing Mk7 vaporiser

Postby gregd72002 » Sun May 05, 2019 7:56 am

I'm preparing for similar job. Wouldn't be easier to just cut it off with a metal saw (just below the nut) and use 22mm socket to undo it?
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Re: Removing Mk7 vaporiser

Postby davyjcb » Sun May 05, 2019 8:48 am

If you have a glow Puig out the van will never perform a Regen on it's own,all 4 must be working
Sometimes you have to do 2 forced Regen's to clear the dpf
96 escort 55 van gone
98 smiley mwb semi high gone
01 90/350 mwb semi high roof gone
05 135/350 lwb semi high roof gone
10 85/260 swb low roof leader gone
09 140/350 lwb semi high fwd
11 115/330 mwb semi high roof
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Re: Removing Mk7 vaporiser

Postby fordson2019 » Sun Aug 11, 2019 9:37 pm

I think I have same problem what tool did you use to undo the 3 nuts holding the felix to turbo mine are really tight ?
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Re: Removing Mk7 vaporiser

Postby jxt643 » Sun Sep 08, 2019 5:09 pm

Know this thread has been dormant a while but hopefully someone can help...


I've been having the same DPF EML light issue. Narrowed it down (I thought) to vaporiser so tried following Skinny's method. 3 turbo nuts came of easy (1 nut and 2 bolts) had a job getting the 2 10mm bolts out of the small clamp below the front box (Cat ?), but got them out. However, could not get the front box down and out, the bracket welded to bottom of Cat kept binding on power steering pump and pipes and cross member bit. so decided to split the exhaust boxes, but DPF to CAT flange coupling was absolute siezed up. Ended up shearing off the bolts (can recommend Erbaur bold and nut remover from Screwfix! nuts had rounded off completely and spent an hour with torch, penetrating oil, molegrips, hammer etc, but no luck. Erbaur bolt remover and electric impact driver had them off in minutes - well, sheared off but at least it was off!).

With boxes separated, manouvered the cat box up out of the engine bay (had to remove air cleaner box first). Then to get fuel vaporiser out tried all sorts, eventually had to clamp the 22mm nut in bench vice and turn the whole DPF! similar treatment for temperature sensors.

Changed vaporiser and sensors for new ford ones, then drilled out sheared flange studs, and reassembled it all. Fingers crossed...

Started up no problem, reset fault codes via TorquePro OBD app, but instantly they returned. Also this time more codes: not just P2463, but also P26A2 and P2455 too which hadn't been there before.

I noticed (having stupidly missed it before) that OBD data showed no values for DPF temperature or pressure, so assume it is an electrical issue. So, think its maybe this wiring loom fault people mention. Have removed and checked the short section that includes the female DPF sensor plug sockets (runs over gear box to multi-plug socket where plugs into main loom), and fine for continuity and no shorts found. So assume its fault with main loom. tracing it up to ECU its one of the 3 looms that pugs in to ECU at top right of engine bay next to fuse box, with Ford label saying "CC1T-12B637 BAD", that is the bottom of the 3 big loom plugs that connect to the ECU.

Has anyone changed this every? Is it epic? looks like it branches off to multiple sockets and sensors all over engine. have seen salvaged ones for £100+ on eBay etc, but would want a new one rather than another potentially faulty one. will phone Ford tomorrow for quote (just parts and also parts and labour) but has anyone tried this...??

Alternatively is this what you get if faulty glow-plugs? I assume that would just stop the regeneration not prevent any voltage going to DPF temp sensors...??
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