Alternator back bearing removal

[transit2015]

Can somebody tell how to remove back bearing of bosch 150A alternator,
without opening diodebridge's wires.
I think first have to remove pulley on front but what then???

[Herts]

See below:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... or+removal

Andy

[transit2015]

See below:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... or+removal

Andy

No help,
Alternator is removed already , I have not find anything on youtube showing how to change the bearings on that 150a bosch model....

[Herts]

Try this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTTfemu_gcY

Andy

[transit2015]

Try this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTTfemu_gcY

Andy

In this vid didode bridge is unsoldered but in mine wires are pressed
so this is not so easy open, think I am wiser when pulley is removed...

[the dutch guy]

you need a puller, you cant pull on the bearing like this. you need to remove the diode bridge and remove the back of the alternator. only then can you remove the axle and pull the bearing off.
did you only get new bearing or a whole kit? its best to change out the brushes while you are at it. a lot of times people break them anyway.

[transit2015]

Result:
No need to remove the diode bridge nor pulley, pulley end comes out with rotor and back bearing, diode bridge and stator stays in another half. only hammers, screwdrivers and pieces of metalpipes was needed....

[BHM]

And a fcuked slip ring to boot....

Brushes usually should be pulled back and pinned for rotor extraction/insertion

BHM

[transit2015]

And a fcuked slip ring to boot....

Brushes usually should be pulled back and pinned for rotor extraction/insertion

BHM

Slip rings and brushes were worn out that is the reason I need to repair this...

[the dutch guy]

make sure you replace the bearings with viton versions. the regular black covers will melt. also get the L versions of the sealed bearings. the R version has much more resistance and heats up more.

[transit2015]

make sure you replace the bearings with viton versions. the regular black covers will melt. also get the L versions of the sealed bearings. the R version has much more resistance and heats up more.

Good point , but my beating read NSK 6202DG8 is it same as viton L ?

[the dutch guy]

Those are deep groove versions instead of normal ones, those can deal with axial loads much better. They are much more expensive but should remain cooler under load.

Just make sure you also get the same designation in this case. Regular bearings with regular designations like R2SL wont survive long in this application. The designers expect axial and radial loads so they use more expensive bearings to keep the thing together.