MK7 2010 2.2 TDCI Injector bolt tightening torque

[Trekexpress]

Good morning gents,

First a warm "HELLO!" to everybody in the forum.

In recent weeks I have been facing leaking injector seals in my MK7 2010 2.2 TDCI (60.000 miles). It's been dripping oil for some weeks and I decided to end the leakage thus exchanging the seals in the valve cover, the copper washers, bolts and return line o-rings. So I took of the valve cover, removed the injectors (injectors 1+2 were pretty stuck and really dirty) exchanged all the seals and put everything back together.

However, as the bolts of the holding clamps seemed so "flimsy" , I did not dare to really tighten them without the proper tightening torque. Yet as the injectors are held down just by pressure of the holding clamp I guess I have to put on quite some torque on the bolts but do not want to break the bolts.

What is the exact tightening torque for the two bolts pressing down the holding clamps?

Cheers!
Trekexpress

[karl]

23nm and the 180 degrees
**Edit by moderator - The correct torque is 6NM +180 degrees**

you need to use new bolts as well as they are stretch bolts and can snap if reused

[Trekexpress]

23nm and the 180 degrees

I am sorry to say that this statement is just plain WRONG and I am also sorry that I followed your advice which caused one of my bolts to break.

I therefore checked with Ford and their official workshop manual. See screenshot attached.

Result: The torq for the fuel injector clamp bolts is 6nm plus 180 degrees...

Greetings.

[andz327]

Good morning gents,

First a warm "HELLO!" to everybody in the forum.

In recent weeks I have been facing leaking injector seals in my MK7 2010 2.2 TDCI (60.000 miles). It's been dripping oil for some weeks and I decided to end the leakage thus exchanging the seals in the valve cover, the copper washers, bolts and return line o-rings. So I took of the valve cover, removed the injectors (injectors 1+2 were pretty stuck and really dirty) exchanged all the seals and put everything back together.

However, as the bolts of the holding clamps seemed so "flimsy" , I did not dare to really tighten them without the proper tightening torque. Yet as the injectors are held down just by pressure of the holding clamp I guess I have to put on quite some torque on the bolts but do not want to break the bolts.

What is the exact tightening torque for the two bolts pressing down the holding clamps?

Cheers!
Trekexpress

23nm and the 180 degrees

you need to use new bolts as well as they are stretch bolts and can snap if reused

Karl has been a bad boy

[karl]

Good morning gents,

First a warm "HELLO!" to everybody in the forum.

In recent weeks I have been facing leaking injector seals in my MK7 2010 2.2 TDCI (60.000 miles). It's been dripping oil for some weeks and I decided to end the leakage thus exchanging the seals in the valve cover, the copper washers, bolts and return line o-rings. So I took of the valve cover, removed the injectors (injectors 1+2 were pretty stuck and really dirty) exchanged all the seals and put everything back together.

However, as the bolts of the holding clamps seemed so "flimsy" , I did not dare to really tighten them without the proper tightening torque. Yet as the injectors are held down just by pressure of the holding clamp I guess I have to put on quite some torque on the bolts but do not want to break the bolts.

What is the exact tightening torque for the two bolts pressing down the holding clamps?

Cheers!
Trekexpress

23nm and the 180 degrees

you need to use new bolts as well as they are stretch bolts and can snap if reused

Karl has been a bad boy

does karl care " the answer is NO " i dont even use the torque settings

[andz327]

Good morning gents,

First a warm "HELLO!" to everybody in the forum.

In recent weeks I have been facing leaking injector seals in my MK7 2010 2.2 TDCI (60.000 miles). It's been dripping oil for some weeks and I decided to end the leakage thus exchanging the seals in the valve cover, the copper washers, bolts and return line o-rings. So I took of the valve cover, removed the injectors (injectors 1+2 were pretty stuck and really dirty) exchanged all the seals and put everything back together.

However, as the bolts of the holding clamps seemed so "flimsy" , I did not dare to really tighten them without the proper tightening torque. Yet as the injectors are held down just by pressure of the holding clamp I guess I have to put on quite some torque on the bolts but do not want to break the bolts.

What is the exact tightening torque for the two bolts pressing down the holding clamps?

Cheers!
Trekexpress

23nm and the 180 degrees

you need to use new bolts as well as they are stretch bolts and can snap if reused

Karl has been a bad boy

does karl care " the answer is NO " i dont even use the torque settings

Nor me mate, torque elbow it gets

[v8dave]

does karl care " the answer is NO " i dont even use the torque settings

Thanks for the reminder.

[Altransit]

does karl care " the answer is NO " i dont even use the torque settings

Probably best not to advise on something like this if you don't actually know


Some of us have a "feel" for how tight a bolt needs to be, and some need the torque setting, I think I've only ever used a torque wrench on cylinder head bolts which need to be all exactly the same

[lygi]

sorry I'm writing here, but there is no point to start a new topic. What kind of torque open-end wrench should I use to tighten high-pressure pipes? Looks like all torque wrenches are socket ones.

[knobby1]

sorry I'm writing here, but there is no point to start a new topic. What kind of torque open-end wrench should I use to tighten high-pressure pipes? Looks like all torque wrenches are socket ones.

Crow foot will fit.

Lord Knobrot

[Jim Archer]

The union nuts only need nipping gently at each end to seat the cones and 'set' the HP lines (the 5NM), then a firm tweek just enough to keep the seal, a decent open end spanner is plenty man enough.

Jim