Future proofing a Mk 7 - what would you do?

[SpikeHCM681]

I have a 12 plate Mk 7 which I've converted into a campervan (pop-up roof, rock 'n roll bed, webasto heater etc).

It's done 80,000 miles and I've done 45,000 of them mainly on long trips.

We drive, twice a year to Southern Portugal and in the last two years I've had a few scares which luckily turned out to be minor issues.

But while I was waiting for the diagnosis of the problems I was factoring in big bills and hotel accommodation while they were fixed.

My question is this - if you were prepared to spend some money BEFORE something broke what would you spend it on?

In other words - are there any MAJOR common problems which elderly Mk 7s develop?

It's already had a dual-mass flywheel.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[Punto443]

Most problems stem from poor servicing and faulty injectors in my experience.
Ensuring they are in good order and fuel pressures are correctly calibrated are a good idea. Do not ignore uneven idles etc.
Other than proper servicing, rust is your biggest enemy,
pay particular attention between the front and rear number plates

Steps, sills and chassis rails, ensure drain holes are clear, spray inside with rust inhibiting wax etc

[metalworker0]

I suppose Rust is the main one, get the chassis and box sections wax injected, have a look at really rusty vans to see where they rust the most ..i notice there must be a rust trap over the front wheel arches ..door steps , the front inner wings rust , sills , spring hanger areas. they rust everywhere and there are going to be even more areas on a camper van ..even at the top of the a pillars. also wax the brake pipes ...this is a through job involving taking wheel arch liners out ..drilling holes, taking rear bumper off , front bumper off ...well you did ask ..and that's what you have to do, if its to be done properly .
if you are going to underseal/ stonechip, wheel arches, sills etc ..use UPOL or equivalent ..NOT SHULTZ.
Keep the body work polished and shiny ..that includes the roof.

Other than that, change the gear oil , you don't say if RWD ..which means change the diff oil, change the brake fluid, even change the power steering fluid and flush the coolant system and add good antifreeze.change the diesel filter

Don't think there is anything else you can do except change the engine oil every year or every 6000 miles or what ever comes first if you really want to look after it.

if it has multilayered leaf springs , buy one of these to get grease in between the leaves.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266388032576

take apart the shackles on the leaf springs ..service them

all the best.mark

[SpikeHCM681]

Thanks Mark and Punto 223 for taking the time to reply.

I'll certainly take up the suggestion about rust treatment etc. Unless the rot was very advanced it's not the kind of thing that would interrupt our journey in the middle if France.

I was thinking more about something that would require immediate action before we could proceed.

Two years ago we had the red "i" warning light come on followed by the engine Management lamp. Luckily it was only the air sensor. And last year the van suddenly, after a stop, developed a violent vibration above 30mph. I checked everything that I could see (jacked the van up) but there was nothing obvious. A visit to a tyre specialist revealed that a long inner section of tyre had lifted by about 10mm - but I was thinking it might be a half -shaft. The van is thoroughly serviced by a reliable garage.

Thanks again for the advice.

Cheers

Mike

[metalworker0]

Thanks Mark and Punto 223 for taking the time to reply.

I'll certainly take up the suggestion about rust treatment etc. Unless the rot was very advanced it's not the kind of thing that would interrupt our journey in the middle if France.

Well it would stop you going to France in the future - these vans rot very quickly, on a wet day, some say you can hear the tin worms belching.

oh forgot, when it's not being used in the winter , don't park on grass or soil

all the best.mark

[George Liquor]

Does it have the gear type oil pump or the dreaded vane type, the swap over is easy enough and could save you a lot of heart ache, also get the injectors serviced melted pistons are not funny, there is a filter for the turbo oil feed which can become clogged and will ruin your turbo the thing is it is under the first main bearing shell in the engine block which means removing the engine and crank shaft to get at it, ye a bad idea, my son also had trouble with this so i removed the feed pipe from the side of the block and used a long thin screwdriver to see if the filter was there which it was i then punched a hole through it ahd twisted the screw driver round a bit to loosen any debris the magnetised tip of the screwdriver pulled the metal mesh bits out then turned the engine over for a bit with the injectors unplugged until i had about half a pint of oil in the catch container to remove any debris that was left he hasnt had a problem since, he went through 3 turbos before this fixed the problem along with a blocked cat which didnt help
Regards, George

[George Liquor]

The sills on my van 2011 rotted from the inside out due to condensation running down the inside of the van body so as stated rust prevention is a big thing especially with coastal driving, damp salty air

[SpikeHCM681]

Thanks George. It's going in for it's annual service in two weeks time so I'll mention those issues to my mate at the garage.

[metalworker0]

That tip that George gave you, about the turbo oil screen is a top tip ..but doubt mechanic would be willing to do it.

all the best.mark