Mk6 will not crank after trying to jump start

[tranmx2]

Seems like you have not got the van up off the ground.

2 x concrete blocks high gives 8" 200mm of extra room to get under. I sometimes use 2 concrete blocks and a same dim cut scaffold plank 50 mm on top = 10" 500 mm.
Use other wood planks to build up steps to the top of the mound.

get under blocks.png

There could be places where the hydraulic lift can be hired.
If you use 1.5 / 2 /3 tonne hydr lifts - "metal slips on metal" - so after lifting put wood blocks/planks under to ensure it is supported/cannot slip off. Where I live a gust of wind can move a vehicle off metal jacks.
I have never found axle stands to be good.

[knobby1]

Look at the sump / oil pan, at the opposite side to the gearbox, where the sump joins onto the bottom of the engine ...exactly in the middle, a couple of inches above the sump should be a pulley ..in the centre of that pulley is a nut ..that is the one you turn clockwise....

This is the sort of view you will have of it if front wheel drive. (not transit) note on your transit there will be other pulleys ...the middle one is what you are after ..that is , the one that lines up with middle of sump / engine block

https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/c ... _i_try_to/

sorry you are going to have to press on the picture ..press reject cookies etc

the only picture i could find that shows it simply without other clutter


all the best.mark

The Transit crank pulleys don't have a single nut or bolt, they have 3 x 15mm headed bolts.

Lord Knobrot

[clydebuilt]

Evening all.

No progress due to work I'm afraid but I did stick my head under the van and took a pic of what I believe to be the crank pully . Given what Knobby1 and Metalworker0 have posted, I assume I can get a socket / spanner on one of these bolts and move the crank clockwise - I'll give it a go tomorrow hopefully.

tranmx2, you're right, I jacked up the van and put it onto a pair of jack stands and left the trolley and bottle jack in place for added safety. Not a huge amount of space under there so I'll try to find some cement blocks or hardwood to build up the height.

I'll hopefully have a technical update tomorrow.

Cheers,

Andy

[clydebuilt]

Evening all.

Right, found some time today to do more troubleshooting.

1. Popped a 15mm socket on the crank pulley and turned it clockwise a quarter turn without much effort.
2. Managed to wriggle a screwdriver up to the solenoid and shorted across the two big nuts while a willing helper turned the key - there was nothing from the solenoid. No 'big wack", not even a click.
3. Haynes book suggests turning on the headlights then trying to start the van - if the lights dim (when the batteries are good) then the current is reaching the starter. That's what happened today.

So, it's looking like the starter motor? I'd like to take the solenoid wires off and test the contacts but I can't get any access. I assume I need to disassemble pipes and hoses to get at the solenoid contacts? For reference, I've got a 2.0 FWD TDCi.

Any hints and tips on removing the starter? Haynes is vague.

Cheers,

Andy

[tranmx2]

2. Managed to wriggle a screwdriver up to the solenoid and shorted across the two big nuts while a willing helper turned the key - there was nothing from the solenoid. No 'big wack", not even a click.

Shorting across the two large nuts - is what the solenoid does when it is operated when the key is turned to start the engine - the solenoid is an electricaly operated switch. The starter key does not need to be turned to the start position.
Shorting across the two bigh nuts - checks that there is power and that the starter does turn.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFsl5r34lCI

A wire from the B+ with a fuse to the thin wire connection on the solenoid could cause the solenoid to operate. If the solenoid does not operate it could be considered that the solenoid is damaged.
If the solenoid is good the starter motor could turn and rotate the engine.

Managed to wriggle a screwdriver up to the solenoid and shorted across the two big nuts. There's usually a flash doing this - if no flash likely there's no power in the big red wire or and the link to the motor, motor to earth is not good.

[clydebuilt]

Evening tranmx2, thanks for the respnse.

yeah, there were a few sparks when I shorted the solenoid contacts together.

I'll manufacture a fused jump lead from B+ and test the thin wire connection - although access will be an issue as always!

Cheers.

[tranmx2]

A stiff wire - like the domestic earth which is insulated - can be used to prod to the solenoid thin wire connector on the solenoid. Gives better control re' aiming at the connector.
The insulation - yello/green - can be bought as a seperate and put over a bare earth wire as used in the domestic 3 wire 13 Amp socket circuit type of cable.
Steel galvanised fence wire can be soft or stiff - beter to file off some of the end galvanise where the contact happens.
There's heat shrink and insualtion tape that can be used on the wire to prevent unintensionable contact.

The DMM can be used to check for V on the wire with the thin wire disconnected. Needs another person to turn the key. With long enough wires the DMM can be in the cab so you can operate the key switch yourself.
But as you mention there's an access problem.

Seems like it'd be easier to take off the front grill/bumper and rad to get at the starter.

[clydebuilt]

Evening everyone.

The van is now running again. My other half's cousin is a mechanic and popped over last Saturday to help. He double checked the fuses, relays and earth connections and encountered the same issue of dead starter. We removed the starter and wired it up to a known good battery on another car using jump leads - the starter engaged without issue. We put it back on the van and it cranked over very slowly like a flat battery would so we applied jump leads and the starter died again. We decided to swap the starter for a new one from Euro car parts and the van started first time. Everything has been fine since.

Seems the starter was on the road out. I'll be trading it in at Euro to get some money back on the new starter I bought.

I want to thank tranmx2, knobby1, and metalworker0 for their knowledge and assistance on this issue.

Cheers all

Andy