I know its an old post but just thought I'd write an essay....ummm....answer.
A tipper pump is much like a starter motor, so much as the live circuit to the pump, which draws a large current, is interrupted and controlled by a solenoid switch which itself is actuated by a much smaller current. So the pump activation solenoid (Usually mounted on the pump body) operates by bridging the large current to the pump when it is connected to a smaller live current.
The pump activation solenoid has four connections, two spade connections or small threaded connections for thin wires (Positive and negetive/earth to actuate the solenoid) and two large threaded connections - these are switched poles of the interrupted live feed line to the pump, which the solenoid then bridges when it is actuated by a small current.
It also has a simple direct release valve solenoid which is usually mounted transversely on the manifold between the pump and reservoir and this has two spade connections for thin wires (Positive and negetive/earth).
So basically, there are three circuits going on; a switched small current to actuate the release solenoid valve directly, a switched small current to actuate the pump activation solenoid, and a large current which is bridged by the pump activation solenoid.
Sorting out your live feed wires:There are usually 3 thin wires (Green, Black and Red) and a thick permanent live feed cable in the main loom that runs from the tipper switch and positive battery terminal to the whole setup. Connect the thick cable to the positive terminal of the battery. Connect the red thin wire to the universal pole of the tipper switch. Connect the thin green wire to the down button pole of the switch and the black to the up button pole of the switch.
The thick permanent live feed cable is bolted to one of the large threaded mounts (Switched Pole) on the pump activation solenoid (This is the interrupted current feed to the pump). One of the thin wires (Red) is also bolted to the same threaded mount (This thin Red wire is used as a live feed, which runs via the tipper switch and allows a current to be drawn to whichever solenoid circuit is connected - See below). The other large threaded connection (Switched pole) from the pump solenoid should be hard wired to the pump live threaded mount, via a metal tab which is insulated from the pump casing via an insulating washer - do not attach any wiring to this thread mount, unless it is an earthed warning siren, flashing light etc. which is to be activated in parallel when the pump is working and the tipper ram rising.
Earthing the solenoids and the pump:Both the release valve solenoid and the pump activation solenoid, together with the main body of the pump need to be earthed. It is assumed that the main body of the pump, together with all the metal it touches is earthed by simply bolting the setup to the tipper frame. So you can use the pump body to make the earth connections from the solenoids. Each solenoid should have two spade fit connections, one live, one earth. The earth connection (Yellow/green) from each of both solenoids are usually just short, independent wires that are mated together and attached to the pump body via one of the small screws that holds the pump activation solenoid bracket to the pump body.
Connecting the switched live feeds to each solenoid:The remaining spade connection is the independent switched live for each solenoid. These are the remaining two thin wires on the main loom running from the cab tipper switch. The green usually goes to the spade connection on the release solenoid, the black to the spade connection on the pump activation solenoid.
At the cab end of the cable, when you switch the tipper, you are connecting the thin red wire with either the black (To operate the pump activation solenoid and pump) or connecting the thin red wire with the green (To operate the release solenoid).
If you are testing it off the Transit, run a jump cable from the earth connection on the pump solenoid.
This is the basis of it, if its a modern tipper unit, with digital displays and whatnot I wouldn't have a clue.
My Mk5 was biodegradable and disintegrated with time.
Ford. Committed to the Environment
Finally entered the 21st Century and bought a MK7. Oh Dear.