Installing an extra fuse box..

[chrisrogers]

Hi Guys,

Starting to play with my MK7 200ps a bit more, there's a few things that are going to get installed in it such as a handiwash, heater, lights ect. I feel it'll be easier to install an extra fuse box in the rear.

Question is where to take power from? I saw in the owners manual the fusebox under the drivers seat has spare slots. Are these the best things to use?

Chris

[Mike]

Hi Guys,

Starting to play with my MK7 200ps a bit more, there's a few things that are going to get installed in it such as a handiwash, heater, lights ect. I feel it'll be easier to install an extra fuse box in the rear.

Question is where to take power from? I saw in the owners manual the fusebox under the drivers seat has spare slots. Are these the best things to use?

Chris

On the FWD vans there's a power take off under the drivers seat with (IIRC) 3 x 60amp fused outputs. Maybe the 200ps has something similar?

[APH]

Think all the Mk7's provide you power take off points under the drivers seat, as it's the only place "accessories" can be connected that dosen't upset the PCM / CanBus controller.

Taken direct from the M7 BEMM, fuses shown in this pic feed connection points behind seat (with red covers on):

[ake]

They are a bit of a nightmare to get to, but it can be done with out removing seats or bulkhead

[yellowcamper]

I know this is an old thread, but found this when I was trying to find a power supply for a towbar relay unit and connection for a second battery for a camper conversion.

I saw the warnings on the battery cover about never connecting direct to the battery and the refer to owners manual. They do seem a PITA to get to, but the diagram in the owners manual is obviously from a LHD vehicle where it would be a doddle.

I haven't got the cover off yet to get a meter to it but have a couple of questions.

1) Does anyone know if these are permanently live or only live when ignition on or engine running. Either is fine for the ZR2300 unit I have from PF Jones. The main thing is that they are not live when the vehicle is switched off/shut down. (A lot of it seems to stay live for a while after it is switched off).

2) If they do shut down is it possible to link a supplementary battery to them via Voltage sensing relay so that the supplementary battery is charged, but will not drain the main battery when not running.

Thanks.

Sean.

[motorman116]

I know this is an old thread, but found this when I was trying to find a power supply for a towbar relay unit and connection for a second battery for a camper conversion.

I saw the warnings on the battery cover about never connecting direct to the battery and the refer to owners manual. They do seem a PITA to get to, but the diagram in the owners manual is obviously from a LHD vehicle where it would be a doddle.

I haven't got the cover off yet to get a meter to it but have a couple of questions.

1) Does anyone know if these are permanently live or only live when ignition on or engine running. Either is fine for the ZR2300 unit I have from PF Jones. The main thing is that they are not live when the vehicle is switched off/shut down. (A lot of it seems to stay live for a while after it is switched off).

2) If they do shut down is it possible to link a supplementary battery to them via Voltage sensing relay so that the supplementary battery is charged, but will not drain the main battery when not running.

Thanks.

Sean.

They are permanently live...
Some Transits have a connector (2pin block connector) behind the O/S/R Light unit taped to the loom that can be used for the tow bar bypass relay.

[Punto443]

Could alway fit the SVO fuse box for more options?

[yellowcamper]

Thanks guys.

I will have another look tomorrow, I did see a plug in the rear light cavity, but discounted it as it was only 2 pin.

Twice previously (Vauxhall Senator and Land Rover Discovery) I found a small 7 pin plug so was keeping an eye out for one of them.

I had another look at the Haynes Manual and it appears there is a dedicated fuse in the engine bay for a trailer connection, but I was hoping to avoid removing trim to thread a wire all the way through the vehicle. If the two pin connector is there and ignition controlled that will be brilliant.

I did some more reading and an American site seemed to say you have 3 60A connectors if a twin battery and one if a single. I have three so as I only have one battery I think it is safe to assume it has had two at some point and when all the AA wiring was removed a battery was removed too. At least I can put another one under the seat for all the camper stuff, LED Lights, 12V/USB in the rear, Water Pump. As far as I can see as long as it has a fuse I can connect the positive of the camper battery to the 60A points through a Voltage Sensitive Relay. It only cuts in at 13.3 V and cuts out at 12.65V so the two batteries will be separate if the engine is not running.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the standard factory two battery set up seems to be similar in that it shows a relay that seems to protect the start battery from drainage by accessories, but not knowing what is or isn't there In my vehicle to begin with that seems to be the easiest approach.

I will post up on the Yellow Camper thread when I get it up and running.

Thanks again.

Sean.