Front Wheel Bearing Instructions for Replacement?

[axxeman]

Hello again, good people. Looking for a step by step "how to" and came across this on the web. Would someone kindly read through it and approve or correct as necessary please?

It's nearly impossible unless you have a good air compressor and a powerful 1/2" or larger drive impact gun.The reason is you have to remove the cv axle nut and axle out of the way before removing the bearing and hub.The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove.The procedure is:Jack vehicle safely off the ground,remove wheel and tire.Remove axle retaining nut.Remove balljoint nut and bolt,pry down on lower control arm,and disengage balljoint and lower arm from spindle.Now the axle can be released from the hub,but leave the other end of the axle in the trans,just set off to the side out of the way.At this point,there are two ways to change the bearing.The wheel bearing is a double roller,cartridge type with the hub containg the wheel studs,pressed into the bearing.Remove the entire spindle assembly from the suspension strut,OR leave the spindle attached to the strut,and remove the bearing and hub from the spindle.Some guys swear by taking the spindle to a press,and pressing the bearing assembly out with a bottle jack.I just use a bushing driver set,and ball peen hammer,and remove the hub from the bearing...then remove the snap ring retaing the bearing in the spindle,then drive the bearing out of the spindle with the hammer and drivers.There you have it.Reverse procedure for reassembly

[nigel57]

Before taking wheel off undo the nut retaining the driveshaft... When I changed mine I used a mechanics press to remove the hub spindle one way then turn the hub assembly over and remove the spring clip then the bearing itself... If the bearing is not put in straight it will not last as it will wear out on one side. A tape measure was used to make sure the bearing was in the hub correctly.... There is no mention of removing the hub from the vehicle so here goes.
Before you start you will need a new driveshaft nut---- 2 new brake calliper retaining bolts----1 pinch bolt for the suspension strut ( local car parts department may have them all if not then FORD do them all at a much higher price )
Undo the driveshaft retaining nut ( windy gun works on this part )
Undo wheel nuts ( windy gun on these as well ) and jack up the vehicle and put a axle stand under the ladder frame chassis
Undo the 2 bolts that hold the brake calliper in place ( fasten the calliper up out of the way with a bungee cord and make sure it doesnt move
Undo the ABS sensor from the hub ( when the bolt has been undone rock the sensor from side to side to release it dont be rough or a new one will be required )
Undo the track rod end and with a ball joint splitter split the ball joint ( I used the clamp type which had been opened up a bit wider as they come standard too tight )
Undo bottom ball joint and splt that as above ( a pry bar was used to seperate the ball joint completely from the lower A frame)
undo the pinch bolt for the suspension strut and lower the hub with a few gentle taps from a hammer ( just tap the ring around the strut first one side then the other ( it takes a bit of persuading but it will move and when it comes out the hub will fall away from the vehicle the only thing keeping it in place is the drive shaft... Doing it this way is fairly easy and the whole job is done in less than a hour..
Then take the hub to someone who has a hydrolic press with a 2 ton or more rating
For re assembly you will need a torque wrench and the correct settings from a HAYNES MANUAL... SO BEFORE YOU START MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING AND i MEAN EVRYTHING AS THERE IS NOTHING MORE FRUSTRATING THAN FINDING OUT YOU DONT HAVE EVRYTHING SORTED... If your doing it yourself be methodical and that way you will remember how it all goes back together.... Enjoy the experiance of fixing it yourself and being able to say I did that and thats why it doesnt work...... Only joking.... Have fun...

[nigel57]

BEFORE SOMEONE MENTIONS THE ANTI ROLL BAR CONNECTOR ROD I DIDNT REMOVE IT AS IT HELD THE SUSPENSION STRUT IN PLACE....

[axxeman]

That's brilliant thank you.

Why do you need to renew the caliper bolts?
Do you get the bearing from a run of the mill Motor Factors?
Does anyone know the correct torque settings referred to above?

Think I might just be able to do this if I can blag a torque wrench from local garage and get someone there to press my bearing in and out...

Kindest regards,

Greg

[tez]

That's brilliant thank you.

Why do you need to renew the caliper bolts?
Do you get the bearing from a run of the mill Motor Factors?
Does anyone know the correct torque settings referred to above?

Think I might just be able to do this if I can blag a torque wrench from local garage and get someone there to press my bearing in and out...

Kindest regards,

Greg

at the end of the day m8 ask the garage to fit it for if you unsure what to do

[nigel57]

Brake calliper bolts are a one use only and for safety sake its best to replace them as they are an important item on the brakeing system..
Euro parts are better than Andrew pages for the bearings as I have had a Andrew pages one and it didnt last the one on at the moment is a Euro parts one..
The torque settings are in the Haynes manual ( that I borrowed from my brother )...
Getting a garage to press the bearing out and press the new one in is a lot cheaper than getting them to do the lot... Plus if they knack up the bearing when they are fitting it they have to replace it... Plus they should know how far in it has to be..
An important thing is dont be blagged by the garage... You tell them what you want doing and thats it no more no less...

[gt_addict]

I think the hub but torque is 340nm.

[axxeman]

Thanks Tez but I don't think that it is a particularly difficult job after the advice I have seen here...

I have done brake renewals all round before BUT that was on my old Courier vans and I remember doing a bearing on my old Escort where it was of the old two race type; (tighten it up and back off a quarter turn etc). Plus, you could knock out old bearings with a socket and care (or a cold chisel if really stubborn).

This is my first venyure into Connect land and I do not want to bollocks it up because I was too stupid to ask my peers for advice pre. By doing the disassembly and re-assembly myself, I am saving a few pounds at £45 + vat that they charge (what recession).

340nm is tight! (4 x wheel nuts if memory serves)

Greg

[axxeman]

Does the ABS sensor have to be removed or can you just unclip the connection further back and leave it in situ?

[axxeman]

Does the ABS sensor have to be removed or can you just unclip the connection further back and leave it in situ?

Silly question. Now that I have dismantled it I can see why it would be a "no"!