wet belt

[teldec]

whats the crack with these wet belts on the later connects, has anybody changed one or know how long they take or cost to change.
i looked on ford etis and it states change at 150k or 10 years the same as the cambelt. i never even knew about this wet belt until a discussion on facebook last night.

[paul2012]

On engines from 10/2007 onwards lower chain that drives fuel pump via crankshaft was change to a belt in oil type.
Yes replace at 150,000 miles

They are not cheap -one here TPUKhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-FOR ... 3a92537fc4

There is a TSB on it notifying the change from chain to belt in oil system.

Its listed here in the faults & fixes list viewtopic.php?f=54&t=124877&p=1239516&hilit

[teldec]

parts not too bad just not a lot of info out there regarding getting it changed, did see something on a mondeo tdci requiring 10 hours labour.
my van is on 105k and would like to get it done early along with the timing belt rather than leave it for a couple of years as the vans going to be a keeper.
cheers paul

[Transitpartsuk]

On engines from 10/2007 onwards lower chain that drives fuel pump via crankshaft was change to a belt in oil type.
Yes replace at 150,000 miles

They are not cheap -one here TPUKhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-FOR ... a92537fc4t

They are O.E though, we do not sell an aftermarket version

[paul2012]

parts not too bad just not a lot of info out there regarding getting it changed, did see something on a mondeo tdci requiring 10 hours labour.
my van is on 105k and would like to get it done early along with the timing belt rather than leave it for a couple of years as the vans going to be a keeper.
cheers paul

1st support engine & remove O/S main engine mount.
Using a suitable engine locking kit. Set engine at TDC & lock camshaft & crankshaft into place - Crankshaft TDC timing hole in on the front of bottom block (behind alternator bracket)

1. Remove Aux drive belt along with idler pulley
2. Remove crankshaft pulley
3. Remove cambelt cover along with cambelt & camshaft pulley.
4.removed pulley from fuel pump & oil seal housing.
5. Remove cambelt cover back plate
6. Remove all bolts/studs (19 of them) from oil pump.
7. Remove oil pump & throw away old gasket.

8. Locate tensioner for lower belt (just behind water pump) unscrew & remove it from block.
9. Remove 2 bolt securing belt guides, then slide belt assembly with the 2 sprockets from it's location & sway from engine.

Refit in reverse order with new belt assembly & gaskets - if you require torque settings.
Let me know & I will post them for you.

Note :- above procedure is the same for replacing lower chain.

[teldec]

cheers paul, any idea how long roughly that would take somebody handy with a spanner

[paul2012]

cheers paul, any idea how long roughly that would take somebody handy with a spanner

Couple of hours, it's fairly straight forward job to do

[teldec]

been looking into this a bit more and got a price from ford, they quote 6 1/2 hours to do the job plus the parts
i suppose it makes them more money but it will put you off the brand in future.

[Piglet]

Recycling old post,

With both belts out, is it worth at the same time doing the crank seal?
and what about water pump?

Is there a trick to getting the crank pulley bolt out?

Anyone?

[Boghopper]

8. Locate tensioner for lower belt (just behind water pump) unscrew & remove it from block.

To withdraw this tensioner from the block, the fan belt tensioner bracket and power steering pump have to be removed. If changing from the elastic band in oil to a chain drive the tensioner needs to be changed to the domed variety.

Is there a trick to getting the crank pulley bolt out? Anyone?

I bought the Sealey pulley holder and a 1/2" breaker bar, my crank pulley bolt came out easy with the two tools.

[Piglet]

Sounds like you've got it sussed, but I wrote notes on this when I did it if it helps:

Lower chain/wetbelt for Dummies

Postby Piglet » Mon May 09, 2016 12:35 pm

Forced by oil leaks I embarked on a strip down with a view to replace wet & dry belts.
Right or wrong, this is how I did it.

Bought 'Neilsen Timing Tool Set - Ford Chain Drive - CT4065' off Ebay, Miller tools 30 quid.
Made 4' long pulley holder from gas barrel & M10 bolts.
Modified 3" 3 leg bearing puller for cam sprocket. (proper one £17)

Jack front up high enough to work under and use long breaker bar etc.
O/S wheel off, arch trim & arch liner off. Arch trim has difficult clip at front.
Inner splash guard off, 2 bolts.

Intercooler & pipes off.
Loosen loom over rocker cover by unclipping & unplugging as required.
Rocker cover off, note 6mm slot at end of cam shaft.
19mm socket on crank pulley bolt, turn engine until locking plate can be slid into cam shaft slot.

Spanner on aux belt tensioner, rotate tensioner to slacken aux belt and remove belt.
A/C compressor off, 3 bolts remove connector, tie up out the way.
Alternator off, 2 bolts, tie up out the way.
Alternator bracket off, 5 bolts.
Starter off, 3 bolts, tie up out the way.
Remove timing hole plug bolt, insert threaded timing pin, advance crank until it touches.

Remove cam plate & timing pin
Loosen crank pulley bolt, home made pulley holder and 4' breaker bar. Fekin tight.
Before removing bolt, replace timing pin, reset crank and fit flywheel lock in starter hole, fit cam plate.
Remove pulley bolt, pulley slides off.

Jack & soft support pad/block under sump, take weight of O/S end of engine.
Move coolant header tank, 1 bolt & difficult clip, unclip pipes and drag tank over front out the way.
Unbolt P/S header tank and return pipe, PITA but can be pushed aside.
Remove: Engine mount nuts x 2, mount studs x 2 (8mm hex), mount from body x 2 bolts, mount from block x 4 bolts.
Remove cam belt cover, 4 bolts.
Remove cam belt tensioner, 1 x bolt. Remove belt
Remove cam sprocket, 1 x bolt and use puller to remove sprocket from taper.
Remove fuel pump sprocket, 3 x bolts and lever sprocket off with large screwdriver.
Remove back plate/seal, 7 x nuts.
Remove cam belt back plate, 3 x nuts.
Remove oil pump cover, 7 x studs & 12 x bolts. 2 studs snapped and had to be drilled out!
Note, small gasket/seal around pump cover centre stud, easily missed.

Having got it all apart the wetbelt was the chain which wasn't rattling so I left it.

Cleaned up all gasket faces and reassembled with new Ford genuine:-
Chain cover gasket
Pump pulley seal plate
Crank seal
Cam seal
Upper timing belt & tensioner
Crank pulley bolt

[Boghopper]

Seriously, if you take your time and research it, it isn't that difficult. But I will say you need a fair amount of tools and somewhere decent to work. I first removed the tensioner and power steering pump to remove the belt tensioner, once I saw the tip was flat, I was commited. I built my own garage and put a 6ft deep car pit in which has been invaluable as it allows me to walk around under the van at my leisure. It is fully lit as well with bulkheads. I wouldn't be so keen on doing this working off trolley jacks and ramps.