Engine lower mounting or the whole engine misaligned?

[jansu83]

Has anyone had a misaligned engine / gearbox lower support on Ford Connect? Mine is 2005 1.8 90 hp TDCi and I have a bad sound when accelerating between 1500 ... 2000 rpm. I got a hint from this forum to check the rear / lower engine support "bone" and it seems like my problem could be there. This is the part I mean:

http://img.skruvat.com/images/42/optf8- ... arge_9.jpg

The smaller end of the "bone" seems to be worn so much that engine moves a lot even by hand. But bigger problem is that it seems to be misaligned too. The smaller end has a bolt through the bush and I noticed that the inner metal and the mounting bolt are not in correct position compared to the bone "body". They apparently should be in 90 degree angle to each other but in my case the gearbox or the whole engine seems to be in wrong position so the bone has turned a bit. I have ordered a new engine support "bone" but I would like to get the transmission / engine mount aligned before I install the new bone in to place. Otherwise I believe that the new one wouldn't last as long as it should.

Has anyone had this alignment problem fixed? Should I check other engine supports too? Is there any possibility to loose other supports and adjust them a bit to get the whole engine to correct position? I have also noticed that my intercooler rubber hoses have a small misalignment too compared to the turbo pipes on the engine so that's why I was thinking that the whole engine could have a small displacement.

[Piglet]

Is that sort of misalignment even possible?

I recently fitted a new dogbone and the van is substantially better to drive, well worth the £13

[tez]

Is that sort of misalignment even possible?

I recently fitted a new dogbone and the van is substantially better to drive, well worth the £13

not last long for 13 pound I bet a few moths or weeks

[jansu83]

Is that sort of misalignment even possible?

That's what I'm trying to figure out.....

[gt_addict]

If the sound is a rattle or vibration type sound and it's only between that range of revs then it's more than likely "gearbox thrash". Common problem on the connect. The friction plate springs become loose and vibrate. Only cure is a new clutch set.

If the gearbox mount is worn just replace it as if left too long and you get a clunk when letting off the gas then the bolt will bend and you have to get a grinder on it to remove it.

[socks999]

had mine fixed yestarday 16 pounds for mount
20 to fix it took about 15 min
it was on a ramp.
drive great now well worth the money.

[jansu83]

If the sound is a rattle or vibration type sound and it's only between that range of revs then it's more than likely "gearbox thrash". Common problem on the connect. The friction plate springs become loose and vibrate. Only cure is a new clutch set.

If the gearbox mount is worn just replace it as if left too long and you get a clunk when letting off the gas then the bolt will bend and you have to get a grinder on it to remove it.

Yes it is a rattling sound, so it could be the clutch. Is it dangerous to drive with bad plate springs for longer period? Does it affect to gearbox? I also have bad driveaxle, and have a new one under my bed in the box waiting for inspiration to get it done in near future. Just about to renew it with the engine / gearbox lower mount and see if there's any difference. Nice to know that there might be a clutch repair session in the future though..... And there's that cylinder bearing that costs some extra, but I will do it (some day before next winter..)if the sound won't disappear after new driveshaft and engine mount. Thanks for the information.

Does anyone know for sure if there is any possibility to make a small alignment for the bone that supports the gearbox and how I should do that? Do the other engine supports have any possibility to loose and adjust a bit? At least I will try it, if the new mounting bone has the same problem.

[gt_addict]

I drove it with gearbox thrash for about a year and had no ill affects. A whole Sachs clutch kit (made by Valeo who supply fords) and an LuK slave cylinder was about £115 for the parts. Now done about 50,000 miles on it and still haven't had the noise return.

[jansu83]

Just got the new bone in to place, took about 20 minutes to replace it but there seems to be no difference. It seems to be in wrong position as well, but I will let it be that way for now on I haven't driven on highway yet, but same noises are still there, small sound when pressing clutch, rattling on second gear and a knocking sound when I turn the engine off. The old bone had cracked from the smaller bush, so it's good to have a new one installed. Have to drive to work tomorrow and see if there are other differences felt during the highway drive.

I earlier took the car for a car mechanic, and asked if this was a clutch noise, but after inspecting he said that it couldn't be the clutch since it works good. He said it would be the driveshaft inner joint, as it had spilled out the grease and had a small play. When I asked about the clutch, the car mechanic said that there are three clutch set options for my car regarding to their part supplier listing, so he said it should be taken off the car to compare the numbers before buying a new one. So I decided to try the driveshaft first since it was relatively easy compared to the clutch change.

I bought a second hand driveshaft, and it had small play in inner joint too. It was driven only 2000 miles and wasn't even gotten rust on its surface so the mileage could be right. But there was small crack on outer cv joint boot so I changed it by disassembling the inner joint and reassembling it again. I don't know if i put wrong grease in the joint, since it seemed to have even more play and small clocking noise when I turned the joint by hand after reassembly. I installed the "new" driveshaft and the noise is still there. Now I have bought a new driveshaft, I will change it again and see what happens. If it doesn't help, I also have to get the new clutch. At least I haven't got a DualMass Flywheel as I have already asked my Ford dealer about that. And now I surely have good driveshafts.

gt_addict, where did you buy your clutch set from? How did you get the correct clutch set?

[gt_addict]

I got it off ebay. Plenty on there and a simple message to the seller (usually a car parts shop) and they can confirm it will fit.

The knocking sound you've got will be the cv joints as you've said. The mechanic saying about the noise can't be the clutch is complete tosh. If the sound is as ive described it's definitely the friction plate springs and the clutch will continue to work fine. My worked fine for a year after I bought the van. Didn't slip and the pedal position was fine. Only reason I changed mine out was the fact the synchro on 4th had worn (not down to my driving or the springs in the plate, but the fact it was a lease vehicle leased to a big housing site builder) so changed the box and clutch at the same time.

Plenty of people have had the same problem on here and can verify that it will be the clutch.

How many miles has the van done? Do you know when the clutch was last changed?

[g-man]

Is that sort of misalignment even possible?

I recently fitted a new dogbone and the van is substantially better to drive, well worth the £13

not last long for 13 pound I bet a few moths or weeks

all the moths r in your wallet

[jansu83]

How many miles has the van done? Do you know when the clutch was last changed?

The van has now 220 000 km (178 000 miles, 1 mile is about 1.6 km) and I haven't found any markings about new clutch in my service book so I guess it's still the original.

[jansu83]

There's a photo of the old bone and it's not straight as I said. Same with the new one. And the turbo pipes are misaligned to the same direction compared to the intercooler. When you compare to the driveshaft on the left or to the track rod at the bottom of the picture or just look at the bush inner metal you'll notice it too. This is not any camera trick.. When taking the photo I also noticed that my power steering fluid is getting out of my car....

At least 2005 Ford is just like my old -75 Lord Taunus (Cortina). When you go to gas station, just check the Fuel, and refill all the other fluids.....

[jansu83]

Today I changed my upper gearbox mount rubber and realigned the engine to the correct position (I think). Here's the photo of gearbox mount when the engine was misaligned (this is the new one, but the old one was at the same position):



I moved away the expansion tank and took out one bolt of the other upper mount and it was also misaligned to the same direction:



I slackened the other bolt too, and took a crowbar and moved the engine about 1 cm (half inch) and then tightened the bolts again. It was very easy to move the engine to both directions left and right when the mounts were loosened:





Now bolts are at the centre on both upper mounts and the lower mount is straight and intercooler hoses are in line. I think it should be like that.

[PaudieG60]

If the sound is a rattle or vibration type sound and it's only between that range of revs then it's more than likely "gearbox thrash". Common problem on the connect. The friction plate springs become loose and vibrate. Only cure is a new clutch set.

If the gearbox mount is worn just replace it as if left too long and you get a clunk when letting off the gas then the bolt will bend and you have to get a grinder on it to remove it.

My van hadthis exact problem, nearly two hours to do a 10 min job!!