SubWoofer Install - 2015 Connect

[semtex65]

Hi all,

I'm about to fit a sub under the drivers seat of my new Connect (Vibe Optisound 8"). I've checked on ETIS and managed to get spliced into the speaker wiring of the stereo/sync system, which was suprisingly easy actually. I am however having problems with what I thought would be the simplest part - getting a power feed! Ford BEMM isn't much help, and there's no customer connection point inside the vehicle. Fine you'd think, just take a feed from the battery. The issue with that though is there is only two grommets to use in the engine bay, both of which are extremely difficult if not impossible to access (engine in the way).

I haven't yet been able to find a suitable feed in the cab yet. So before I start taking big bits of interior out, is anyone aware of a feed I can pick up from in the cab? Haven't found anything on ETIS yet. Or alternatively any suggestions for getting a cable in from the engine bay? Getting in through engine bay would be most preferable, as later I'll need to be getting a 70mmCSA cable through, so any advice appreciated!

Cheers

[gt_addict]

In the shape ive got the best way was to feed it up the gap on the front wing and down the a piler into the passenger footwell. Not sure if it will work but maybe an avenue to look down as im sure fords wouldn't have gone to the trouble of sealing up the wing on the a pillar

[semtex65]

Well the install is complete For those that ever consider a sub install, here's how I did it on a Connect with the full Sync/nav/camera setup:

Power:
There are no decent sources in the cabin or behind the dash - All wiring suitable for the current is terminated with spades, not bolted down. So you'd have to splice in, which is not something I like to do if we're dealing with decent amounts of current (20amps +). So I went for the grommet behind the engine. Remote the engine cover (just pull it firmly away) for better access/visibility. You'll see it. Now go to the glovebox. On the underside of the lid externally you will see two plastic pins. Pull these out and you can then remove the glove box/lid. There is also a cover underneith in the footwell. Removing this is not essential, but is easy to do and helps with cable routing. Thats held in place by two fir tree fixings. Looking through where the glovebox was you'll see a loom going through the firewall into the engine bay. This is the grommet you want. Drill/stab a hole into the RIGHT side of it - The harness is directed immediately to the left when it enters the engine bay. Don't want to stab/drill the loom as I almost did! Now attach your cable to a suitable poking implement and push the cable through the hole, in to the engine bay. Its pretty obvious routing the cable to the battery. The cable was routed in the cab under the centre console, over the pedals (cable tied to dashboard structure) then along the door sill to under the drivers seat. Under the plastic trim of the sill you will find a handy earthing point - The instrument cluster is earthed here too, and I saw the dials twitching as the connection was broke/made, so probably worth disconnecting battery prior to this. I didn't need a remote switch on wire as my sub is auto sensing, but if you need a switched live, then you can get one on the fuse board behind the glove box.

Audio:
Unsurprisingly there are no RCA pre-outs on the head unit, so speaker level it has to be. So now we need to get that lovely dashboard apart. First remove the top centre panel of the dash which shades the monitor. To do that, just grip the front of it over the screen and pull towards you, not up as you will break clips. Now, above the screen are two torx screws. Remove them. Now you can pull out the whole panel with buttons, airvents, and screen bezel in one hit. Try to grip on the edges of the air vents. The whole thing is pretty robust so don't be afraid of giving it some effort. As you pull the assembly away there are two looms plugged into it. unplug these and you can remove the whole panel. Now you'll see a silver box - the ACM (Audio control module). Remove the two torx on the top of it and you can then pull the head unit out revealing two connectors on the back. The one you want is on the left - Connector C240A. Pin-out/wire colours listed below:

Front Left + : Pin 22, White
Front Left - : Pin 10, White/Brown
Front Right + : Pin 23, White/Violet
Front Right - : Pin 11, White/Orange

These four are all located at one end of the connector next to a thicker earth wire. Splice into those accordingly (I use heat shrink adhesive lined splices) Then drop your cables down into the drivers footwell routing over the pedals (cable tie!) and along the sill to under the seat.

Wire that lot up to your sub/amp and you're good to go The difference is amazing. I've used a Vibe Optisound 8 which came with all required wiring and fits perfectly under the seat. I wasn't after boy racer boom boom boom, more for quality and extending the frequency range of the system, which this little thing does perfectly

[davidschap]

I know this is old but I wanted to send out a big THANK YOU to the gentleman that posted this. Many that loom / harness was a bitch. My car being a lease I didn't want to cut the big rubber looks so I sliced it and ran my power through the slice. Shouldn't be an issue. Your deck removal was spot on. Was a little confused at first as I was looking at the navi vice the cd player for the wires. I have no clue how you were able to run the wires under the carpet. I tried for about an hour and failed, so I ran it up the middle console under the deck, then under the middle console and out to the drivers seat bottom and it worked out perfect.

I use a sound ordinance 8" powered sub and it really filled out the sound in the van. Wiring was a long arduous time, as it took me about 7 hours to do the power / rem / ground wires. I'm super OCD so all had to be perfect. I ran the rem using an "Add A Fuse" powered from my fuse box. I added it to the ignition switch ( 7.5 amp ) and it worked out great. How I do all my decks. I also split into the harness using Rockford Fosgates speaker to Female RCA. Way cleaner and better alternative to the low level inputs.

I may redo the power wire someday if I decide to buy the lease ( actually leaning towards it as this van is working out better and better everyday ). Getting ready for a road trip to see my son in Portland and really interested to see how it does. I'm only 5'4" so sleeping in the TC is great. I always pack MRE's ( I work for the Navy ), my gun, my travel guitar and other essentials.

But not to get off subject, I just wanted to say very much thank you for your great instructions.

V/R
David

[mrtn]

This is my new favourite thread.

[jizzer]

hi sorry for the late post but do any of you no why i need to plug my rca out of the amp and back in to get sound. Every time i switch them engine off and back on its like the sync is not sending the signal. It works fine 1s i plug it out and back in

[mrtn]

Is the amp on when there's no sound? Perhaps the REMOTE (switch) is acting up?

[tylermonk]

Audio:
Unsurprisingly there are no RCA pre-outs on the head unit, so speaker level it has to be. So now we need to get that lovely dashboard apart. First remove the top centre panel of the dash which shades the monitor. To do that, just grip the front of it over the screen and pull towards you, not up as you will break clips. Now, above the screen are two torx screws. Remove them. Now you can pull out the whole panel with buttons, airvents, and screen bezel in one hit. Try to grip on the edges of the air vents. The whole thing is pretty robust so don't be afraid of giving it some effort. As you pull the assembly away there are two looms plugged into it. unplug these and you can remove the whole panel. Now you'll see a silver box - the ACM (Audio control module). Remove the two torx on the top of it and you can then pull the head unit out revealing two connectors on the back. The one you want is on the left - Connector C240A

Hey man, this feed has been an absolute life saver for me. Thanks for putting in the effort to write it out.
I have a question though, I’m struggling to find the “silver box” you mention, are you meaning the actual head unit with its built in silver casing/heat sync or is it a different box?

Thanks again
Tyler


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Posse]

Audio:
Unsurprisingly there are no RCA pre-outs on the head unit, so speaker level it has to be. So now we need to get that lovely dashboard apart. First remove the top centre panel of the dash which shades the monitor. To do that, just grip the front of it over the screen and pull towards you, not up as you will break clips. Now, above the screen are two torx screws. Remove them. Now you can pull out the whole panel with buttons, airvents, and screen bezel in one hit. Try to grip on the edges of the air vents. The whole thing is pretty robust so don't be afraid of giving it some effort. As you pull the assembly away there are two looms plugged into it. unplug these and you can remove the whole panel. Now you'll see a silver box - the ACM (Audio control module). Remove the two torx on the top of it and you can then pull the head unit out revealing two connectors on the back. The one you want is on the left - Connector C240A

Hey man, this feed has been an absolute life saver for me. Thanks for putting in the effort to write it out.
I have a question though, I’m struggling to find the “silver box” you mention, are you meaning the actual head unit with its built in silver casing/heat sync or is it a different box?

Thanks again
Tyler


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are correct, the ACM is the roughly 20cm x 20cm x 10cm silver unit with two connectors and the antenna, and a cd slot in the front.

I installed a Pioneer TS-WH500A yesterday using this thread step by step. Big thanks, it really made a difference after some fine tuning.

I have no idea why the photos rotate, appearently I'm not a wise man.

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[steve200684]

Just another shout out to say thanks for posting this. I'm literally about to fit the same Vibe sub in my 2016 connect and would never have believed I could find exact details of how to do it from someone else! Saved me a lot of time figuring it all out