Starter Issue, Fuse 12 keeps blowing, any ideas?

[plushterry]

Hello, my 2009 Connect keeps popping fuse 12 in the battery fuse box, the handbook says it's the starter solenoid fuse, I've checked the wiring and earthing points and they seem OK. Would a dodgy solenoid pop the fuse like that?


Here's the backstory if you're interested:

I went to start it the other day and neither the starter nor the solenoid made any movement, but all the lights on the dash etc. seemed as normal. I found that fuse 12 (20A) in the battery fuse box had blown, easy fix. It was fine for a day or two then it blew again, so I changed it again and it was fine again.

Last night I put some fuel in and it wouldn't start, so I changed the fuse and it still wouldn't go until I bumped it, then it ran fine except my dash voltmeter (had electrical problems before , sound investment for a connect!) was reading 11.7v rather than the usual 14-14.4v. On the way home while I was cornering, the voltmeter went up to 14v and when I got back, it would start just fine off the key like usual.


I've had the power cables off and cleaned the connections, checked the wiring and it all seems OK, so I'm guessing it might be a bad starter solenoid that's causing the fuse to blow? The motor itself seems just fine when it does actually go. The voltage drop last night seems like maybe it's a separate issue, I know my smart charge system isn't great so I leave it unplugged (I get 15-18v with it plugged in and 14.4v with it unplugged, been fine this this for about 9 months)

If anyone could help throw some light on this, I'd be eternally grateful!

[plushterry]

btw the voltmeter I use came from ebay, if you search for '12v car voltmeter' or similar, get the round one, it fits neatly into a spare cigarette lighter slot on your dash. Very handy if you have lots of things to drain the battery or your connect has crap electrics like most of them

[nokivasara]

I don't know what a smart charge is but 15-18V is way too much, just leave it unplugged

The reason for blowing the fuse could be either the solenoid or maybe your ignition switch, or a short circuit somewhere (anywhere) in the starter circuit.
If you can source a starter for cheap, maybe borrow one, you could replace it and see what happens.
I really don't like throwing parts at random to fix a problem but with intermittant electrical faults you can be scratching your head for months before you find the cause to this.

[plushterry]

Thanks! I hadn't thought of the ignition switch, I'll have a look at testing that tomorrow.


Haha, you don't want to get to know smart charge!

[plushterry]

Ok so changing the ignition switch looks like a pain in the ass so I've gone and got a new starter and a fistfull of 20a fuses, so I'll have a go at changing that this afternoon. I will keep you posted

[plushterry]

Ok so I changed the starter, nice easy job, seems OK now. I took some photos so I might put up a how to later

[nokivasara]

Fingers crossed
I realized last night that maybe it is a simple fix afterall, maybe the starter just needs a thorough clean and a bit of grease in the bushings...
You could take the old one apart and see if you can fix it, always good to have a spare...

[plushterry]

It definitley seems better now, so I'm hoping that it was just the starter. I was going to take the old one apart anyway to see if it was obvious what the problem was (don't mind loosing the £6 surcharge), so that's a good idea, can't do any harm to carry spares when you drive a ford! haha

[plushterry]

BTW I finally sorted this (I hope, about a month now with no problems).

After changing the starter and ignition switch, replacing the fuse a million times and eventually replacing it with a resettable breaker, the problem turned out to be the cable that connects the starter, alternator and battery, it was ever so slightly frayed where it joined the starter. I fitted an upgraded cable (35mm² with gold plated terminals) while I was there and have had no problems since.