Rusty front to back brake pipes mot fail

[mowens]

Hi all
New to the site so apologies if any thing in my post needs clarification
I have a 2009 lwb transit connect that has failed the mot for both off and near side rusting brake pipes, the front to back ones that goes over the petrol tank joins in the middle of the car then proceeds to the front and disappears under the front subframe into a junction on the bulk head
Hope some one on the forum has changed them and can help with some advise
some questions are as follows
1. Do i need to remove / drop the tank or can i re route the pipe
2. If i can re route what is the best route and how and where do i clip it to the body work
3. do i have to take the front section of pipe right up to union on the bulkhead or will it be ok to put a joint in the pipe before it disappears under the front subframe (pipe still in fair condition there)
4.if I cant joint what do I need to remove to get onto the front of the pipe as it looks a nightmare to get at
Hope some one can help

Mark

[liteace]

If they're not to bad wire brush them and cover them in grease, job done

[mistericeman]

If they're not to bad wire brush them and cover them in grease, job done

Right up till the point they pop when you are standing on the brake pedal the hardest.....

Just replace rusty brake pipes with copper/Kunifer and have peace of mind rather than bodging them ffs.

[mowens]

thank you for the reply
the mot said extensive corrosion so i think i need to do them as they do look rusty

[liteace]

thank you for the reply
the mot said extensive corrosion so i think i need to do them as they do look rusty

Chang them then if EXTENSIVE

If they're not to bad wire brush them and cover them in grease, job done

Right up till the point they pop when you are standing on the brake pedal the hardest.....

Just replace rusty brake pipes with copper/Kunifer and have peace of mind rather than bodging them ffs.

I did say "If they're not to bad" as Ive seen them before with just surface rust on and they've failed the mot, but cleaned up a treat and passed the re-test, no bodge involved, FFS !!

[mk2dk]

Hi Mowens.
I've changed them on my Connect.
Used copper brake pipe and routed them same way as the old ones.
1) You don't need to remove the tank, but lower it about 10-15 cm, which isn't that bad. I placed a wodden box under the tank, removed the bolt the holds the metal bands, and lowered it till it rested on the box. You don't need to remove any hoses or wires, they all have extra length.
2) I'd route them as the original ones.
3)I lowered the front subframe a couple of cm's to get access to the pipes. Loosened all bolts but kept them a couple of threads in to hold the subframe.
4)The original pipes are assembled in 2-3 sections and it's ok to make a joint if it's done in the same place and same way as the original ones. Did mine in one piece all the way to the ABS block, definately not the funniest job I've done.
Hope this helps you a little, it's not done in a couple of hours, but not to bad either.
mk2dk

[mowens]

thanks mk 2 dk
that all makes sense apart from the connect onto the abs block as i cant seem to see how you get onto the abs block to both disconnect or re connect as its in the most in-accessible place below the diesel filter is there enough room to get in there ?

[mk2dk]

Have to admit, I did the job while my engine was out, and even then it's hard to access some places. In my car the ABS block is situated just below the engine-fuse box, don't know if that differs between models. The fuse box is easily unbolted and the wiring loom has enough length to move it aside. I re-used the pipe fittings on the ABS block, as they are diffirent from the other.
If the front section of your pipes are ok, I'd change the pipes from the subframe and back. If I remember correct, the original pipes have a joint after the subframe.
mk2dk

[mk2dk]

Just realised the reason why the ABS location is diffirent, might be due to my car being LHD
mk2dk