Anti-shudder valve...P141A?

[APH]

Hi all, I have a 1.8 tdci 90ps 07 plate connect. I have been getting intermittent MIL light, starting with cog light which cleared after I re started the van, now it's always the engine block symbol, and every time the code is always P141A, which I know is egr circuit intermittent.

I was reading a similar issue which "paul2012" posted some interesting answers, and as I haven't familiarised myself with the working of this engine yet, I was hoping for some advice / pointers as what to check and hat to replace.

My first thought was EGR valve has failed (I get a sluggish lacking power feeling quite often as though valve is sticking open slightly) However...... This is what I have done and fund so far:

Checked plug to EGR and wiring loom going back to main loom and can't find any defects / fault.
When turning the van off, the egr used to make a ticking noise for a couple of seconds, now I just get a high pitched wine/ oscillation type noise, but no movement sound from the valve.
I looked at the throttle valve (anti shudder valve) as was wondering if the sensor could be faulty...BUT. the valve moves freely if I operate the lever by hand, and the arm rests normally in the downwards position (is this normal?) On starting the van, the operator dosent move, on stopping the van, the operator dosent move Not sure if I should see it briefly close.

I pulled the vacuum hose off the operator bellows, and started the van..no suction. Stopped the van...still no suction..
Has my operator solenoid valve failed?? should I get something on this valve actuator when either stopping or starting?

Does the valve need suction to keep it open, and closes under Spring pressure, or the other way round? if it needs suction to close..how does it do that when switching engine off..just uses last engine rotations to generate enough vacuum to operate before engine stops altogether? I'm confused on how it should work, and or if mine is faulty in some way?

Also, if this valve isn't working would that explain my code and my egr not working properly?

So to sum up, is my EGR likely to have failed? If so can I check this somehow?
Is my anti shudder valve or its controls faulty in some way? or is it shut down because of the EGR?

Sorry for long post, just confused on how it should work


I much prefer my mk6 DI transit, much simpler systems and easier to diagnose lol

Andy

[APH]

soo...still no nearer to knowing what should really happen with this system, but.... my warning light has gone out and stayed out all day today, but the code is still stored again ( I cleared it yesterday morning and it came back within about 5 minutes of driving, however the light didn't come on, and still hasn't

My anti-shudder still dosent seem to ever move, and my EGR still dosent seem to make any self cleaning noise anymore, however, my van is driving with more power than it has ever had since I owned it, and actually enjoyable to drive atm

very odd

Andy

[APH]

Light came back on today, and off again by this evening.

Now got codes P141A, and P0489 (Egr Circuit "A" Low)

Still don't know if I should change the egr motor, the shudder valve position sensor, the vacuum solenoid for the valve....or..

Andy

[APH]

Finally solved it after the light refused to re set, and I got codes for intermittent erratic egr circuit, egr circuit low, and egr circuit high.

I took the motor off the egr valve, and discovered the little "dumbbell" looking rod with the two bearings that pulls / pushes the valve stem open and closed had snapped and one of the broken bits had dropped down inside the casing of the motor assembly, jamming the cog slightly round (also allowing the valve to stay partially open) and the motor had burnt out. Soooo, motor was ok, I could get a new one no bother, but really did isn't want the hassle of taking the manifold off (and the exhaust...with all the usual broken studs etc that normally plagues me when I do such things why oh why fords had to make the egr valve no removable from the naïf old I will never work out. The assembly could easily have screwed on / in, or bolted to the side, especially when it's guaranteed to clog up with carbon and get stuck!) to change a broken pin!...and couldn't justifie the cost of a new manifold either......After trolling posts online I found a thread on here, and another on another site, and my broken pin is obviously quite common. (fords should sell a replacement one as its not hard to remove the bearings!) I found a guy on here who made a replacement out of some brass tubing and a long nut and bolt...so thought I'd do the same about £4 later in parts, and about 15 minutes of time, I had a working valve assembly again, to fit my nice new motor onto....light gone, van pulling / boosting much better, and far better than it has ever been since I owned it...and if that little bodge fails / snaps, I have enough spare tubing and bolts to make about 500 more!

Andy

[axxeman]

Sounds like you should knock a few up and sell 'em on.