Engine beam.

[Piglet]

It's a long URL and the page keeps chopping it, try the above but remove my return keys.

[Boghopper]

Well, no, I haven't taken those two out (13/14) I thought they were for the crankcase. I shall take a look.

[Boghopper]

It looks like you might be right, Piglet.

This photo clearly shows a tapping on the bottom corner.

[Piglet]

Yup, one each side I reckon.
I remember wondering how much torque to apply when putting it all back.

[Boghopper]

Yep, I've just been out and removed those two and it came off in five seconds. Cheers for that Piglet as Ford never mentioned it once. All they mention is to remove the five on the face of the case. I have been scouring those Ford manuals and it says absolutely nothing about those two underneath, even when discussing removing the crankcase. It's like something from Monty Python. At least there seems to be no damage from my tugging of it. I shall see about putting the bloody thing back together now. On a side-note, my gasket and the rear face of the case around the waterpump was hanging and looks as if it has been weeping, probably from new.

[Piglet]

Glad you got there and I'm sorry I wasn't a better source.
What worries me is I'm only going to get worse.

[Piglet]

What did you use to get the Torx out?

[karl]

What did you use to get the Torx out?

torx bits

[Boghopper]

Piglet, I'm really going to depress you now because I know the hassle you had with those two bolts. You see, all you have to do to is remove the sump pan, you must remove the two torx studs completely and give it a few taps with a rubber mallet. If you don't remove the torx studs then you will not be able to break the sealant bond between the sump-pan and the crankcase and will be there for ages fighting with it. Once the pan is removed, all you have to do is remove the three M6 bolts that hold the metal oil pipe and the plastic pick-up to the underside of the crankcase. Once the three bolts have been removed you can the pull both the metal and plastic pick-up out from the sump. The metal return pipe is friction fit with an o-ring, up into the engine block. Once they are removed the timing case can be removed without having to remove either the torx bolt, or the hex bolt. All you have are two tails which can be left on and withdrawn with the timing case.

I did remove the torx bolt though, as I had been thinking about what was ahead of me before embarking on the case removal. I had it in my mind, from what you had told me, to use my minature Teng spanner and bits. It did allow me to remove the torx bolt easily. It is only about 2 1/2" long and has a ratchet on it, amazing for awkward places, well made as well.


Teng TM029 mini ratchet spanner and bits. Bloody handy little tool.



The metal pipe after being pulled out.


Back of belt after 50,000.

Water trickling out of mount bracket holes.


Coolant trickling out from behind timing case.


Oil pick-up and return pipes. Both can be removed after removing the three M6 bolts
and pulling them in a downward direction to basically, un-plug them.


Timing case out, at last! Very grotty around the water-pump area.
Piss-poor and flawed setup by Ford in my opinion.


Timing case, showing the two bolts underneath that the manuals don't mention.
The metal return pipe tail can be left on, as can the plastic pick-up tail (mine has been removed).
But they don't need removing to remove the timing case.

[Piglet]

That leaves me baffled. I tried to reassemble with the pipes on, no way.
Mines an 08 with chain.