Connect mk2 problems, help needed!

[JayEades]

Hi everyone, my first post on here!

Soo, i have a 2018 transit connect mk2 240 limited lwb (120bhp 6 speed), ive had it from brand new and has now done 200,000 miles.

Problem 1.

Its started to have a vibration coming through the pedal from around 55-65 mph, but not a constant vibration more like you have an deformed tyre then everytime the bad part comes into contact with the floor you get the vibration if that makes sense, now my rear tyres were abit shot and had gone abit deformed, so i put my front tyres on the rear and put new tyres on the front, this seemed to fix the problem for a while but now its back. It isent bad but ino its there and would like it fixed as things like this annoy the hell out of me as i drive it daily for work, ive just also replaced the front discs and pads and its still there. Its getting rear shocks this week as there knocking but cant see that having anything to do with it. Imo its something that rotates.

Any ideas?

Problem 2.

I went to replace the driveshafts so went onto ebay, found some from the same spec van 6 speed etc,( my part numbers are no longer there so dont no what they are) the sellers ran my reg and stated they were for my van ( both from seperate sellers ) so got them ordered and booked into my local garage who looks after it for me. We get it on the ramp and removed the original shafts, went to put the new second hand ones in and they wouldnt go into the gearbox, we then put them end to end with the originals and the shaft end were alot bigger than mine? So now im lost as to what shafts to order as theres loads on ebay with differant part numbers, how do i no what i need?!

Helpp!

Thanks jay

[metalworker0]

well , first of all im no expert on what models had what and when after 2011.

i suppose at 200,000 pretty much everything is going to be well worn , so it's hard to make a guess ..if you have any of the original: suspension components, wheel bearings, they will all be worn.

i don't know if your model has a duel mass flywheel ..i know very little about these later engines or USA stuff if you are from there ..you never mentioned where .

what cc is the motor ..is it diesel or petrol ?

You have not given us a history of things you've replaced - only recent stuff .

You haven't given us a history of its servicing ...the gearboxes need oil changes ...it could be well worn, beyond saving, if it hasn't had this done in 200,000 miles. The 6 speeds are not renowned for durability. not sure how a tyre change could make it better at first then return to bad again - only that the new tyres ran smoother and covered up some of the vibrations until the vibrations got even worse

driveshafts, i would expect them to be worn out by 200,000

easy and quick
worth checking engine mounts
crankshaft rubber damper that is built into the pulley, if it has one on this model
have a look at the colour of the oil in the gearbox when you drop it..any gold looking swarf in there ..then its on its way out.

Drive shafts being wrong ....they had over 6 choices of engine and two choices of gearbox on that model year..so again hard to say, could be that the sellers are just interested in a sale and will tell you anything to get that sale without properly checking things.

That garage of yours should check everything over ..and give you a proper appraisal of all that is worn or needs replacing - then you do the maths and decide if its worth it .

Vans with mileages like that , that are still running superbly have been enthusiast owned and maintained .. them doing things like: 50,000 miles gearbox oil changes and 6000 mile oil changes...and picking up every fault when it first occurs and sorting it out themselves .

if its an ecoblue ..dont know how its got that far without 2 wet belt changes.

having said all that a huge mileage like that over a short period does tend to make things last..less cold starts and motorway runs will help the engine and box last a long time .

all the best.mark

[JayEades]

Thanks for the reply.

A little more info, im from the uk and the vans a 1.5 tdci.

Things that ive changed over the vans life.

Clutch + flywheel + gearbox oil at 150,000
Timing belt + waterpump at 90,000 then at 170,000
Front droplinks.
Lower arms.
Track rod ends + inner arms.
Rear shocks.
Clutch master cylinder.
Gearbox mount.
Driveshaft oil seals.
Alternator.
Engine oil changed every 10,000 then full service every 20,000, gearbox oil been changed every 50,000.
Think thats all.

Anytime its needed somethig its always been fixed straight away as i depend on the van for work so cant afford for it to be broke.
It still drives like new! No nocks or creeks, Just recently its had this little vibration start but today it was hardly of at all there?

Ive managed to track down my driveshaft part numbers from ford so i should be able to get the rite ones when/if i need them now so fee better about that, just need to trace this vibration but as i say it wasent there today which is strange, must of fixed itself lol.

We also had the van on the ramp and give it a check over trying to find the vibration, wheels bearings were all free and no play or noises, drive shafts seemed fine no play or noises etc, suspention all seems tight as most ofit has been changed. Was just the rear tyres and front brakes that we picked up on so changed them. Engine mounts are still original so may chnage them next, gearbox mount has been done.
Ja

[metalworker0]

Alan howatt tells you how to check drive shafts here ..ford mondeo is similar and may be the same ..note how he turns the wheels to find the play

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UV9E1JBBMZM

BTW - Alan has found a way of replacing inner cv joints cheaply ..without the need to buy a whole new drive shaft.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3W1X2KZ7aXo

Note: reconditioned drive shafts can be dodgy and short lived ..especially since some recon ones may have done 300,000 or more...and minimum of parts replaced

if it has a DPF ..after 50,000 it could be done for ..there were a lot of poorly made short life ones made once.

all the best.mark

[JayEades]

Thanks for that i will have a watch and see if i can find anything wrong with mine.

Changed drivers engine mount today and still feels the same driving home so guessing it wasent that ( was split and leaking oil out )
Now thinking it has to be shafts as i cant see anything else it could be its just weird how it drives perfect upto around 50 thn the vibrations theres. As for new shafts ill price up new from ford and seeif theres any decent ones on ebay.

[metalworker0]

I don't suppose the place you had the wheels balanced, had done it wrong, something wrong with the machine ..or a balance weights fell off .

new thing on the latest tyres ..they have yellow and red dots on the tyres telling the fitter that: copied from google:

"The yellow dots identify where a tire weighs the least — the lightest point on a tire. The yellow dot should be lined up and directly next to the valve stem, which is the wheel's heaviest point. The red dots identify where the tire is flattest — the lowest point on a tire

I'm no tyre fitter - You could look into that a bit ... i don't quite see how the lowest point of the tyre works ..how would they correct that ?

all the best mark

[JayEades]

As stated before when we first looked into this problem we noticed the rear tyres had worn uneven, so i put 2 new tyres on then put them on the front and the ones from the front onto the rear ( these were only a matter of weeks old ) and it didnt change anything ( its my mates garage who ive used for years and never had any issues ) also i dont think its a tyre/balance issue as the steering wheel doesnt wobble etc, its a vibration through the foot pedal from around 55mph.

So ive now got a passenger side engine mount ( gearbox mount ) to change, ive noticed recently when at idle the wing mirror on passenger side vibrates like mad, but once you put a couple of revs on it goes so im hoping the mount its worn and causing the problem.

I also bought 2 driveshafts from ebay from 2 seperate places as ive had a nightmare tryin to find correct part number ones, sooo anyway both looked fine on the pictures etc, turned up both had split cv boots so cv grease everywere so they both been returned! Im hopin this is a sign that i dont need driveshafts and the mount will fix it!

If not then ill just have to fork out for brand new shafts as this is the 2nd time ive tryed to get 2nd hand shafts and had issues.

Jay

[metalworker0]

I would not touch used second hand shafts ..you are asking for trouble, like i said some of these vans do huge mileages...s/h minimum when scraped would be something like 130,000. and you have to figure that these drive shafts may have had.....just the CV joint on the end at some time ..probably Chinese ..and probably knackerd again after 15,000

some re-conditioners ...just replace the one cv joint with chinese ..new chinese cheap boots ,,, and then a rattle can spray job

been through all this with cars in the past ..whole reconditioned drive shafts that are buggered at 15,000

Good used recon ..best are Delphi..seen their stuff .....you''ll get the inboard and out board with them and it will look and act, and feel like brand new .

all the best.mark

[JayEades]

I just got 2nd hand to try and fix this vibration issue, if it fixed it then i new what the issue was rather then splashing out for brand new ones not nowing they were the problem, then i can look into recon my originals or just buy brand new, but as i dont no 100% the driveshafts are at fault im just changing them to cross them of the list of things it could be. I have sent them back and got a pair of aftermarket shafts with a 2 year warrenty, again im not expecting these to last forever just a quick fix to see if the fault is with the shafts, for the price they were its worth a try, if its still there after changin them then the shafts wernt at fault and ill keep hold of my originals to put back in of the aftermarket fail, Passenger engine mount is getting changed tomorrow so we'll see if that does anything.

Ive also been doing about of research of my own while out and about, it seem to start at 55mph and seems its worse at 65mph, but on a morning for the first few miles it seems to drive perfect and it isent there then after a couple miles it starts, also if im doing say 65mph when it seems worse if i put it in neautral and just roll and let the revs come down to ide its still there so that tells me its nothing to do with engine/gearbox so can only think shafts now unless anyone else has any other ideas. The only way i can really discribe it is when you have a wheel out of balance and your steering wheel wobbles, its kind of that feeling but in your foot.

Jay

[metalworker0]

Just sort of adding to the list of possibilities. ONLY VALID IF YOU HAVE AN MTX75 GEARBOX

There is one bearing in the gearbox ..that does not care about oil changes ..and it is one of the things that ends the life of the gearbox

it is a sealed bearing on the end of one of the shafts ..it does run in the oil ..but ford for some reason thought it would be a good idea to put it in there .....so has its own tiny amount of grease supplying its bearings forever....and sealed so that it does not get the oil to constantly flush and lube. this bearing usually plays up after huge mileages ..like yours has.

Alan Howatt also has a gearbox strip down on a youtube video, that shows you this bearing ..note he does not mention that it is an mtx 75 . it may be a derivative of the mt series
https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9& ... 5w3wvA1fM4

all the best.mark

[JayEades]

Rite little update on this. Think ive narrowed it down to the driveshafts are just worn out, had it on the ramp again and if you spin the wheel fast you can see the shafts dont just spin around they sort of do a circle motion as they soin if that makes sense, so im goinf to change the shaft as i think thats the problem.

Now my next question is ive found a set but the last 2 letters are different on 1 shaft but the other the same, ( both out the same van ), i have a list of what should fit, so 2 are the exact same apart from they end in AB or AC, the shafts are AA, but the other side is AA but as i say out the same van. Here to make it easy to understand FV66 - 3B437 - AB, they these shafts are the exact same apart from the last letter on 1 shaft, other shaft is AA. Will they fit?

Jay

[metalworker0]

Sorry Jay ..but think you have now gained more knowledge than me ..or maybe the forum can provide .to be honest .probably no ones going to know any more. especially about codes you've mentioned, unless they are a reconditioner etc.

That info would be available in the parts books from reconditions, that euro car parts etc have at their outlets.

all the best ...mark

[JayEades]

Sorry Jay ..but think you have now gained more knowledge than me ..or maybe the forum can provide .to be honest .probably no ones going to know any more. especially about codes you've mentioned, unless they are a reconditioner etc.

That info would be available in the parts books from reconditions, that euro car parts etc have at their outlets.

all the best ...mark

See the problem ive got is that the part numbers are just a sticker on the driveshaft, with mine now done 206,000 miles that sticker is long gone so i dont no what my exact part numbers are, ive contacted ford and they give me a part number for each shaft but that number means nothing when looking on ebay etc for 2nd hand genuine shafts, the number ford give me ive managed to find a list of suitable shafts that should fit so should be the same, now the issue im having is ive found a set of shafts on ebay for a good price, both matchin of the same van and done only 59k, the drivers part number matches exactly to this list of suitable shafts, but the passenger side matches all but the last letter so im thinking well surely is the drivers should fit then surely the passenger does to as there from the same van?

This is the differance, 1 of my list is FV66-3B437-AB or AC, the shaft i have found is FV66-3B437-AA, but theres another on my list that is eifferant at the front but same at the end - FV61-3B437-AA.

Ive tryed looking into these numbers and seems to be when and were they were made etc or what revision they are etc. i think they will fit, ive messages the company explaingin my situation and if they would be ok with me sendinf them back of they didnt fit, just waitin on a reply.


Jay

[metalworker0]

ok this is where i think you are going wrong in the search

it's you using the letters and numbers part name..they are not the proper part numbers and will confuse things when you do a search
the numbers I WOULD USE are 7 digit see below

A typical google or ebay search would have you putting these numbers and the word Ford into search
example :
"Ford" "1890675"
important - use quotation marks

On ebay you tick the box that says : "Include description"

Results from this site that lists the proper 7 digit part numbers - hope the link comes out as its long

https://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l ... I5NDQrMTMx

- Sorry don't know why there are three choices for each one ...maybe different makes but same product.

NOTE actual part numbers to use are in red


left hand complete drive shaft choices

3B437 1890673 Shaft And Universal Joint Assy; LH; 1.5L Duratorq-TDCi (88kW/120PS); 6 Speed Manual Trans - B6 29/06/2015 -

3B437 1938195 Shaft And Universal Joint Assy; LH; 1.5L Duratorq-TDCi (88kW/120PS); 6 Speed Powershift 6DCT450 - MPS6 29/06/2015 -

3B437 1890675 Shaft And Universal Joint Assy; LH; 1.5L SOHC DI TC Diesel DV5FD A; 1.5L SOHC DI TC DSL DV5FD B 29/06/2015 -


right hand complete drive shaft choices

3B436 1890670 Shaft And Universal Joint Assy; RH; 1.5L Duratorq-TDCi (88kW/120PS); 6 Speed Manual Trans - B6 29/06/2015 -

3B436 1938194 Shaft And Universal Joint Assy; RH; 1.5L Duratorq-TDCi (88kW/120PS); 6 Speed Powershift 6DCT450 - MPS6 29/06/2015 -

3B436 1890672 Shaft And Universal Joint Assy; RH; 1.5L SOHC DI TC Diesel DV5FD A; 1.5L SOHC DI TC DSL DV5FD B 29/06/2015 -

NOTE = I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR EBAYERS OR WEB SITES GETTING IT WRONG


when i do searches ...before i commit to buy ...i will find at least three matches of the same part number from different vendors , /ebayers, that are exactly the same product.

note lazy ebayers often copy other peoples listings ..and so copy mistakes.


all the best.mark