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Rust

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Rust

Postby richardstubbs » Mon Mar 25, 2024 6:12 pm

Hello Custom owners, I need your advice please.

I have a 2005 Mk6 SWB semi-high which I converted into a camper seven and a bit years ago, and it needs to be replaced. Why? Rust, lots of it. I'm just in the middle of the annual welding marathon and I'm bored with it. I also have a 2006 Renault Trafic low roof, which isn't rusty at all. Galvanised, see. But too small for the family.

I've been trying to find a short, high Trafic (Vivaro, Primastar etc...) to convert, but they are like hen's teeth. However, there are quite a few short, high Customs about. They're a nice looking van and just the right size and shape.

So the question is this: Does the Custom rust? Some of them are over 10 years old now so it would be obvious if they're like the Mk6 and 7 which barely lasted that long without dissolving into a brown puddle. Anyone got a 2013 or 14 Custom, and has it had four sills and two wings yet? Or are they galvanised?

I know all about the wet belt and it doesn't scare me - I'd just change it, can't be harder to do than a chain. And I can't fit a LWB in my parking so that isn't an option.

Cheers.
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Re: Rust

Postby sherwoodcycles » Mon Mar 25, 2024 6:50 pm

They are dip galvanised - mine has a few rust little bits from damage the previous owner dine, but apart from that it's fine. Personally I'll keep to the 2.2 but you'd have to get an old one like mine. The wet belt isn't as simple as a normal fabric belt - so do some reading.
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Re: Rust

Postby APW » Mon Mar 25, 2024 7:29 pm

As above, the custom doesn’t rust like the MK6/7 did.

Same Question here:
viewtopic.php?f=65&t=214286
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Re: Rust

Postby Altransit » Mon Mar 25, 2024 8:11 pm

APW wrote:As above, the custom doesn’t rust like the MK6/7 did.

Same Question here:
viewtopic.php?f=65&t=214286

I remembered asking that question, and getting no negative responses, and still haven't seen any rust questions or complaints on the Custom/Mk8 forums.
The wet belt engine has proved to be a little more problematic, although, bearing in mind how many are out there working hard, and have done a high mileage to boot, the engine issues are only a small percentage of the total that are in service :)
1994 Mk4 SWB 115 Minibus 70ps Di (R.I.P.)
1997 Mk5 SWB 115 Minibus 70ps Di (Gone, but not forgotten!)
2004 Mk6 SWB T280 Medium Roof 85PS 2.0 TDDi - Vantunered (Also gone)
2008 Mk7 SWB T280 Medium Roof 85PS 2.2 TDCi - Also Vantunered
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Re: Rust

Postby richardstubbs » Mon Mar 25, 2024 10:43 pm

APW wrote:As above, the custom doesn’t rust like the MK6/7 did.

Same Question here:
viewtopic.php?f=65&t=214286


Thanks, I did do a search but didn't find this.
2005 Mk6 85T280 Camper
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Re: Rust

Postby richardstubbs » Tue Mar 26, 2024 12:22 pm

sherwoodcycles wrote:They are dip galvanised - mine has a few rust little bits from damage the previous owner dine, but apart from that it's fine. Personally I'll keep to the 2.2 but you'd have to get an old one like mine. The wet belt isn't as simple as a normal fabric belt - so do some reading.


Thanks, that's very helpful and good to hear that Ford seem to have turned a corner on the rust issue. I like the Mk6 but the rust is a deal breaker really.

I'm aware that the belt isn't like a conventional belt but I'm comfortable with changing a timing chain so can't see it being much of a problem. Have you done one, and are there any particular issues that you know of?

Doing the chain and tensioner etc. on the Mk6 was very straightforward with the correct timing tools, in fact I'd say no harder than the average belt. If it's like that then no issues.
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Re: Rust

Postby metalworker0 » Tue Mar 26, 2024 1:17 pm

First off there are two belts to replace - timing belt and oil pump belt.
The only issue i can see is ..you have to have a huge breaker bar to do up the nut on the crank. as you can see :
Stage 1 20nm
Stage 2 40nm
Stage 3 90 degrees
Stage 4 90 degrees again
Stage 5 90 degrees a final time)

So from stage 4 takes considerable force to do ..so you need very hefty 3/4 drive socket and breaker bar.

There is no keyway on the crank pulley ..hence the tightening sequence with new nut.

You can't re-use the timing cover, the sump will have to come off to replace the wet type oil pump belt.

You'll need locking tools, if you haven't got an impact gun to take things apart .


all the best.mark
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Re: Rust

Postby sherwoodcycles » Tue Mar 26, 2024 3:51 pm

!!!!!
Definitely sticking to my 2.2 lol

I once bought a kango and did the belt as good practice.

Only to discover when reaching up, that there was no crank key. Almost bought tears to my eyes
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Re: Rust

Postby richardstubbs » Tue Mar 26, 2024 7:20 pm

Yea, my budget will probably dictate a 2.2 if I do get a custom. Good to be armed with info though, because you just never know.
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