How to change kingpins in a mk1, mk2 or Lwb mk3 transit.
i have just done a set on a H reg twin wheeler mk3,
tools used
- i used a propane bottle
- roofers gas torch from machine mart
- a big hammer
- adjustable reamer (which you can hire from tool shops)
various scokets and spanners - wire brush
- grease gun
- emery cloth
- large pin punch
this is how i do it.........
- crack the wheel nuts remember they undo to the rear on twin wheelers
- jack it up under the beam and put on stands under beam as close to end of axle beam as poss (helps stop bounce when wackin them)
- unbolt and remove brake caliper complete with pads do not disconect hoses 17mm socket for bottom bolt,if the brake hose is in the way on top use a 17 mm ring give it a sharp knock with hammer to crack the bolt if its solid
- cable tie caliper out the way
- unbolt the 24 mm nut on the steering bar and lower out the way
- prise of hub bearings cap
- remove spilt pin and castle lock washer
- then unbolt either 24 or 27 mm nut draw of hub n brake disc complete
- there may be a back plate to unbolt some have some dont
- unbolt lower bolt thro shock absorber push up out way (19mm bolt n nut )
- now you will be left with the stub axle /kingpin assembly
- look at it and you will see a grease nipple top n bottom, under this there is a cap remove it with a 36 mm socket
- now this is how i do the next bit
- wire brush the stub axle and beam of muck in the beam locate the thro pin
- now you can try n wack it out with a punch but i have found they hardly ever do ..so i centre punch it down the hole and drill 3/4 thro with a small drill then a bigger drill, keep the drill straight and let it cut, dont force it you dont want a bust drill in there
- then tap it out with a punch it will fly out no probs
now is the fun bit because its either gonna tap out or be stuck solid (some ive done have fell out , some have been a nightmare) but just take your time have a cup of tea and plod on
we will presume there stuck
- now find a suitable long old socket i use an old long reach 15mm for this held in a pair of mole grips, i then light up the roofers torch adjust the regulator on bottle till its full wack and then spend 10 mins warming the beam, i get it glowing red, and useing my 10 lb lump hammer wack the pin down from the top, it may well now come out easy but, it may move a bit and need reheating, keep doing this until you have finally knocked it out, dont be surprised if it takes a couple of hours and you hair stinks of burnt grease and you have a sooty face
- this is a good time to get some dinner and leave it all to cool off
- take the stub axle and fix it in a well fixed vice, inside the stub axle is 2 bushes top n bottom, you need to drive them out but be careful not to damage the threads that hold the grease caps on, i use an old 18mm socket that i welded to a old socket extention bar to wack them out, they do come out fairly easy
- now clean the stub up with a bit of emery cloth
- locate the new bushes in your king pin set ,apply a bit of grease to outer shell and genntly tap them back in, i use a copper hammer to do this and then the 18mm socket to drive them in to place
- now you need the adjustable reamer, set it so its just catches the bush then ream a little of (keep cleaning of the swarf as you go), you keep adjusting the reamer until the new king pin is a firm fit and requires a good hand pressure to push in
- do this to both bushes
- find your new lower bearing in your kit and place it on the stub axle
- next find the thrust washer in the kit and a hand full of shims, offer up the stub axle to beam keeping lower bearing located in stub it has a slight lip to keep it located
- push in the upper thrust washer i used the wooden handle of the hammer to tap in, sometimes you may have to add shims for a tight fit
- line it all up by looking down thro the set up, do not attempt to fit pin until its all lined up
- look at the kingpin theres a grove machined in it half way down, apply a little grease to the pin and make sure the stub axle points in the straight a head wheel postion.
- keep the groove in the pin to the rear so its facing toward other side of transit
- gently tap in (i use a copper mallet) keep going until it is just past the cap thread on top
- look at axle beam and check to see the groove is on show
- get new thro pin apply a little grease
- make sure you put narrowist end in first tap in axle beam. (i do it from the rear of axle beam)
- put new grease nipples on caps
- screw caps back on and apply grease with a grease gun until a good ole splodge appears thro new lower bearing and around new thrust washers
- refit shock absorber, hub and brake caliper and steering rod
dont forget to pump brake pedal up or you will have a 10 second panic when you come to stop.
hope this helps best wishes Billy
Article written by Billybun