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INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

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INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby newyorkdrummer » Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:54 pm

I went to Halfords last week to get a new interior light for the back off my van because when im loading motorcycles in the back i always seem to break it.All they had was a small fluorescent light for 20 quid that would last me 10 minutes.So i went over to the bargain bin and spotted a set off fog lights for 12 quid.They are 55 watt each and dont break.The light now is great.The one over the back doors is great at night for loading cause you can move the light to point out the back doors so you can see.
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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby ake » Sat Mar 20, 2010 11:13 am

Just don't leave them on without the engine running, cos they kill the battery in no time
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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby Mike » Sat Mar 20, 2010 11:19 am

ake wrote:Just don't leave them on without the engine running, cos they kill the battery in no time


I was thinking that too, LED's are the way forward.
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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby madbri » Sat Mar 20, 2010 11:25 am

ake wrote:Just don't leave them on without the engine running, cos they kill the battery in no time

they wont b on to long as i bet there isnt a relay on them so it,ll burn the switcht out surely :roll: :wink:
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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby newyorkdrummer » Sat Mar 20, 2010 12:24 pm

They have been in now for two weeks and no problems i changed the fuse to a 30 amp.
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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby Mike » Sat Mar 20, 2010 12:26 pm

newyorkdrummer wrote:They have been in now for two weeks and no problems i changed the fuse to a 30 amp.


Oh that'll be OK then :shock:

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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby trigger » Sat Mar 20, 2010 1:29 pm

Had to be a mk6/7 on fire :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby AlanN » Sat Mar 20, 2010 2:43 pm

I think right in saying that 55W @ 12VDC is 4.6A x 2 = 9.2A. A 10 amp fuse would probably fail through fatigue, so a 15A at both ends would be safe, although this would down to 8A @ 13.8VDC :D
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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby trigger » Sat Mar 20, 2010 2:47 pm

He should still put a relay in to avoid burning out the switch
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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby Mike » Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:39 pm

AlanN wrote:I think right in saying that 55W @ 12VDC is 4.6A x 2 = 9.2A. A 10 amp fuse would probably fail through fatigue, so a 15A at both ends would be safe, although this would down to 8A @ 13.8VDC :D


A 10a fuse won't pop until it has much more than 10a going through it, so no it won't fail through fatigue. A fuse at both ends is a waste of time too, put the fuse as close to the +ve as possible or it won't protect the cable
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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby Mike » Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:42 pm

trigger wrote:He should still put a relay in to avoid burning out the switch


You don't need a relay to protect the switch if it's rated properly, a relay will reduce voltage drop though. So yes use a relay but use it for the right reason.
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Re: INTERIOR LIGHTS THAT WORK

Postby AlanN » Sat Mar 20, 2010 5:01 pm

Don't know why I added a fuse at both ends :lol: bit a of waste of fifty pence (more resistance) and yes your right, fatigue is less of a problem at 12VDC, but it something you get use to doing it...

Sadly, I have seen Chinese fuses glowing at 40% past their rating, which is very novel :lol: :roll: even at 12VDC on some transmitters. I even saw a satellite decoder surface mount fuse melt onto a track and carry on going, until it went bang half hour later, the funny thing about it, I asked my boss to look at this wonder of science and it went bang in his face, he wasn't impressed :oops:
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