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Interior lighting

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Interior lighting

Postby fridge doctor » Mon Oct 22, 2007 10:36 pm

Hi.
I expect many of you will be aware of this, but equally a good proportion may not.
the generally available mini halogen spotlight (12v) intended for use in household situations and if bought in a kit comes complete with transformer, is also fine to use on 12v DC.

Forget the kits....
The lamps are cheap enough to buy individually and have a multitude of uses for the customiser. 20 watts halogen is significantly better (brighter) than tungsten for the same current draw. I have 3 in the cargo area and 2 in the cab, one of which is positioned adjacent to the glove box as a hidden floor light for the passenger area. The uses are endless though if you are in to lighting, eg. my next project is to bang a couple into the bumper (Mk5) as daylight running lights.

Biggest problem is electrical connections to the pins on the lamp. THEY WILL NOT SOLDER. However I have found that the ends of a failed mini flo tube are the exact fit. I am speaking of the half inch diameter tubes.... Carefully prise the end cap away and because the pins are brass you can easily solder your flyleads to them before pushing on to the halogen lamp pins - perfect.

Hope you can make use
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Re: Interior lighting

Postby Nel5on » Mon Oct 22, 2007 10:50 pm

Or if your looking for low wattage, good out put, go cold cathode...from computer mod section on ebay, brighter than LED loads less watts than halogen. mine cost £6 for two 12 inch tubes.
Mines a camper, so less watts and more light count. :lol:
Remember anything from a desktop computer works as most 12v, Fans, power supplys(240 to 12V) Lights and some screens(the power pack type)
Going to put a old PC in my van, cheaper than a TV, they have DVDs and wifi and add a card and get freeview. :lol:
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Re: Interior lighting

Postby AndyG » Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:00 pm

fridge doctor wrote:Hi.
I expect many of you will be aware of this, but equally a good proportion may not.
the generally available mini halogen spotlight (12v) intended for use in household situations and if bought in a kit comes complete with transformer, is also fine to use on 12v DC.

Forget the kits....
The lamps are cheap enough to buy individually and have a multitude of uses for the customiser. 20 watts halogen is significantly better (brighter) than tungsten for the same current draw. I have 3 in the cargo area and 2 in the cab, one of which is positioned adjacent to the glove box as a hidden floor light for the passenger area. The uses are endless though if you are in to lighting, eg. my next project is to bang a couple into the bumper (Mk5) as daylight running lights.

Biggest problem is electrical connections to the pins on the lamp. THEY WILL NOT SOLDER. However I have found that the ends of a failed mini flo tube are the exact fit. I am speaking of the half inch diameter tubes.... Carefully prise the end cap away and because the pins are brass you can easily solder your flyleads to them before pushing on to the halogen lamp pins - perfect.

Hope you can make use


But remember that these halogens get extremely hot :!: :shock: Watch you don't melt your bumper :!: :lol: :wink:
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Re: Interior lighting

Postby fridge doctor » Tue Nov 06, 2007 9:11 pm

Thinking maybe I will put them in the rear (steel) bumper instead. A little extra light when reversing can't be a bad thing :?: :?:
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Re: Interior lighting

Postby thunderider » Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:49 pm

fridge doctor wrote:Hi.
I expect many of you will be aware of this, but equally a good proportion may not.
the generally available mini halogen spotlight (12v) intended for use in household situations and if bought in a kit comes complete with transformer, is also fine to use on 12v DC.

Forget the kits....
The lamps are cheap enough to buy individually and have a multitude of uses for the customiser. 20 watts halogen is significantly better (brighter) than tungsten for the same current draw. I have 3 in the cargo area and 2 in the cab, one of which is positioned adjacent to the glove box as a hidden floor light for the passenger area. The uses are endless though if you are in to lighting, eg. my next project is to bang a couple into the bumper (Mk5) as daylight running lights.

Biggest problem is electrical connections to the pins on the lamp. THEY WILL NOT SOLDER. However I have found that the ends of a failed mini flo tube are the exact fit. I am speaking of the half inch diameter tubes.... Carefully prise the end cap away and because the pins are brass you can easily solder your flyleads to them before pushing on to the halogen lamp pins - perfect.

can u put some pics up as im a wee bit confused.... :?

Hope you can make use
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Re: Interior lighting

Postby Buzz-Billsberry » Sun Dec 02, 2007 7:40 pm

fridge doctor wrote:Thinking maybe I will put them in the rear (steel) bumper instead. A little extra light when reversing can't be a bad thing :?: :?:



The only lights you are allowed to use on the external of any road vehicle have to be 'E' marked if there not it will be an MOT failure plus if the law pulls you then its 2 points and fine from the boys in blue

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Re: Interior lighting

Postby Guy88 » Sun Dec 02, 2007 9:50 pm

Buzz-Billsberry wrote:
fridge doctor wrote:Thinking maybe I will put them in the rear (steel) bumper instead. A little extra light when reversing can't be a bad thing :?: :?:



The only lights you are allowed to use on the external of any road vehicle have to be 'E' marked if there not it will be an MOT failure plus if the law pulls you then its 2 points and fine from the boys in blue

Buzz



Well my rear worklights arnt approved and operate with the reversing lights, and my extra marker lights are not approved
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Re: Interior lighting

Postby fridge doctor » Sun Dec 09, 2007 8:53 pm

What's 'E' marked please ? And does anyone think the boys in Cyprus blue will know ?
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Re: Interior lighting

Postby fastmower » Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:17 pm

http://www.ce-marking.org/what-is-ce-marking.html

That should explain things!

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