MK6 Home made 2.2tdci, + various other mods!!!!

[winterheating]

3 months ago i took my mk6 with tdci conversion, and mondeo 6 speed box to france for holiday. it made it there and back but only just.

i had been using the van ok, only prob was the nearside shaft was slightly to long with the 6 speed box been slightly wider. I'd modified inner offside shaft and bracket that holds it to block ok.
the nearside shaft would knock very slightly on pot joint, only when turning right too fast so that the suspension brought the shaft up level and closer to gearbox. id been putting that shaft off as a welding company told me it was hardend and couldnt weld it.
then 3 days before i was due to go away, i was at flavels at stockton-on-tees. They said only the ends were hardend, and middle could be welded fine. So left a spare shaft that i had, with them and picked up the next day. they did a lovely job....



but the forgot to cut 20mm off the just did exactly the same length
i only noticed as i did the job of fitting it the night before i was due to go @ 5am in the morning
so i had no choice to cut it again and weld it myself. (by the way i cant weld





of corse it was not perfecttly straight or balanced, so the result was a fair bit of vibration. but took the chance, iwasnt expecting it to go well.
anyway it got there ok, and used the van for the 2 weeks i was there, got back to portsmouth ok, came out on to m275 and lost drive. The bracket holding inner shaft had sheared the bolts holding it off and shaft fell out of gearbox. there was no suprise that the diff had a lot off play and gear oil was pouring out of shaft seals on both sides.
luckily i had my tools, and just the bolt heads had sheared off, and had some spare bolts.
had to stop about 10 times to replace the bolts or tighten them up, until in the end got my ratchet strap out put it right round the engine to hold the shaft and bracket tight to block. it was fine after that.
Got off the ferry at 5pm and didnt get back home till 4am just over 300miles, and i had a job booked in to start at 7.30am


so ive only just got chance tonight to take engine and box out.
then decided to take head off to see how the 2.4 head marrys up.
but not sure what i will gain by just the head
also was thinking of putting the 2.4tdci turbo and manifold on
or just changing the 2.0 block for 2.4 block, but dont want it lazy like the RWD engine.
does anyone have a TIS disc with the 2.2tdci duratorque on
the only prob i can see with the 2.4 head so far is the water connections.

[winterheating]

had another look at the 2.4 head, the front water connection should easily miss the offside engine mount for the FWD, the RWD has a pulley bolted to the 3 holes on its block where the FWD mount goes.

The exhaust ports on 2.4 head are bigger though inlet are the same.

The in and out valves are bigger also on 2.4 head.

havnt measured cams yet

as the 2.4's head has water flow coming out the opposite way to the 2.0, theres a couple of holes for the water ways different in the head gasket, so may need holes drilling through new head gasket:?:

The 2.4's head at the rear doesnt have the cam pulley for water pump and vac pump connection.

I think the vac pump should fit in the position it does on 2.4 block

I still need to work out what will go where for vac pump,water, and PAS pump.

Could put electric pumps on for PAS and water

what I'm wondering is, can i fit the thickest headgasket and with it being the 2.4 gasket, it will also drop the compression cos of bigger diameter bore for cylinder.

Ive noticed modern diesels are dropping the compression ratios and using vairable turbos to overcome the sacrifice of compression to still give good power output when needed.

So as im fitting better airflow head, will have performance exhaust, am going to fit better intake and boost pipes, i'm going to get more air flow,
but thinking that turbo will still only maintain a constant boost of 1.7bar so overall compression will be lower, and only way to overcome this is to change boost level

any advice

[Luke]

you like to mess dont you

with the shaft if your wanting to shorten it - it might be best to softern the end off then machine the splines further in chop the end then reharden it just an idea see how the other one holds up - but the problem with welding it in the centre is it creates a weak spot there

as for the rest of it ..... i'm years behind you

[winterheating]

ive had a better idea now, im going to keep both outer shafts standard, and alter the engine mounts to move it to correct position for nearside shaft, then only have to shorten inner offside shaft with bearing on.

[bigjohnthomas]

has the 2.4 block a longer stroke? is that why it doesn't rev so hard as a 2.0?

[winterheating]

possibly yeah, ill check that tommorrow, i'm pretty sure the 2 cranks are identical though.

but theres at least 4 different length conrods for the duratorques, identified by a letter on them.

[bigjohnthomas]

different compression ratios? 75/85/100/125ps thats 4 of em:?: different con rod maybe

[winterheating]

has the 2.4 block a longer stroke? is that why it doesn't rev so hard as a 2.0?

yep 2.0 86mm stroke 2.4 94.6mm stroke.

[bigjohnthomas]

one must have a shorter through on the crank then

[winterheating]

yeah must do,
just the main bearing, and con rod bearings on crankshafts are exactly the same on both.

[winterheating]

different compression ratios? 75/85/100/125ps thats 4 of em:?: different con rod maybe

all the engines have compression ratio of 19:1

my 75ps conrods are different to my tdci125ps cos the gudgeon pin(if thats right word) is different height on the piston.

i'm trying to search my TIS disc were it tells of the 4 different conrods.

a mondeo tdci i rebuilt had L on its conrods, so does my 125tdci. and my 75ps tddi had F,

so i think the other 2 conrods are for tddi 2.4 and 1 for 2.4 tdci

[winterheating]

mmmmmmm nice new 2.2 ST TDCI injectors






just have to figure out how to change nozzles (for transit head lengtgh) without comprimising the correct operation and life of injector

[winterheating]

Model & Manufacturer
Brand Ford
Type Mondeo 2.2 TDCi Ambiente
KBA manufacturer key 8566
KBA type key -
Manufacturer´s adress Ford-Werke AG, Henry-Ford-Straße 1, 50735 Köln, Tel.: 0221-9033333
Start of production 2004
End of production 2007



Body
Bodystyle Sedan
Doors 4
Seating capacity 5



Powertrain
Type of engine In-line
Cylinders 4
Engine installation Front mounted engine, transversee
Cubic capacity 2198 cm³
134 cu.in.
Max. power output 114 kW
155 PS
~ 152 hp
@ 3500 rpm
Bore x Stroke 86.0 x 94.6 mm
Compression ratio 17.5:1
Valves per cylinder 4
Valvetrain Dual Over-Head Cam (DOHC)
Fuel injection Diesel direct injection
Charger Turbocharger
Max. Torque 360 Nm
266 lbs ft
@ 1800 rpm
Drivetrain serial Front wheel drive
Manual gearbox 6
Automatic transmission None
Displacement-to-power
ratio 51.8 kW/l
70.5 PS/l
~ 69.1 hp/l



Performance
0 to 100 km/h
(~ 0 to 62 mph) 8.7 sec.
Top speed 223 km/h
~ 138 mph
Weight-to-power ratio 12.9 kg/kW
9.5 kg/PS
~ 9.7 kg/hp


so its same stroke as 2.4
looks like i'll have to use the 2.4 crank and rods
i wonder if the 2.4 is not as free revving cos of displacement

also compression is down so shouldnt harm if i do the same.

[winterheating]

1998cc duratorque has 86mm bore & stroke, square engine.

the 2402cc has 89.9 bore & 94.6 stroke, under square.

the 2198cc has the 86 bore and 94.6 stroke also under square.

but what if i used 86mm stroke from 2.0 and changed to 2.4 pistons to give 89.9mm bore
this would then be an over square engine and have a displacement of 2184cc slighty less, than standard 2198cc setup.

would i be right in thinking an over square engine would only be good for a race engine
and no good for a diesel

[winterheating]

does anyone know where i can get power charts for 125ps 135ps tdci mk6 engines and the 130ps,155ps tdci mondeo engines.

i cant find anything , used to be able to find superchips power graphs straight away.

thanks,.