How urgent is pump learn?

[Pearsemc]

Hi all,

Firstly sorry for bringing this old thread back but the symptoms bluphoto has stated here are the exact same as my own and I've been unable as of yet to find the problem.

I have changed the fuel filter, blew lines out and cleaned the tank. About 6 months ago there was a sensor kit put on (prv, scv and common rail sensor) not genuine I may add. I'm getting no faults excapt the air flow mass sensor but I have blocked the EGR without mapping it out so I'm led to believe this causes the fault?

Van is almost impossible to drive at this stage, sometimes it won't even rev past idle when she loses power, but if she sits for a few seconds she will clear and drive normally for a short while before starting to lose power above 1500rpm very intermittently.

So I was thinking I should just go buy a genuine scv? The prv doesn't bypass under idle (had no one to rev) but should it bypass at all even when driving normally?

Any help guys? TIA

[knobby1]

Hi all,

Firstly sorry for bringing this old thread back but the symptoms bluphoto has stated here are the exact same as my own and I've been unable as of yet to find the problem.

I have changed the fuel filter, blew lines out and cleaned the tank. About 6 months ago there was a sensor kit put on (prv, scv and common rail sensor) not genuine I may add. I'm getting no faults excapt the air flow mass sensor but I have blocked the EGR without mapping it out so I'm led to believe this causes the fault?

Van is almost impossible to drive at this stage, sometimes it won't even rev past idle when she loses power, but if she sits for a few seconds she will clear and drive normally for a short while before starting to lose power above 1500rpm very intermittently.

So I was thinking I should just go buy a genuine scv? The prv doesn't bypass under idle (had no one to rev) but should it bypass at all even when driving normally?

Any help guys? TIA

Surprised the engine ran very well at all considering the SCV and PRV aren't genuine. The FRP sensors never fail so I'd be refitting the original genuine one. Were the "learns" done after fitting the new valves..? If not you're wasting your time.

The SCV and PRV should be genuine Denso or Ford items and then the learns need to be done or it will never run properly....non genuine valves tend to fail the learns and even if they do miraculously pass, they don't last long. The PRV should never go into bypass, it's there to save the rest of the fuel system should there be a high pressure fault. If it leaks or has gone into by-pass, it's munted and needs replacing.....the engine will not start if it is leaking too much.

With the EGR, you may be going into limp mode if the EGR has been blanked without mapping it out. Blanking the EGR without mapping it out will normally throw MAF and MAP sensor fault codes and eventually go into limp mode which means the PCM will try to save the engine from further damage.

Lord Knobrot

[Pearsemc]

Hi all,

Firstly sorry for bringing this old thread back but the symptoms bluphoto has stated here are the exact same as my own and I've been unable as of yet to find the problem.

I have changed the fuel filter, blew lines out and cleaned the tank. About 6 months ago there was a sensor kit put on (prv, scv and common rail sensor) not genuine I may add. I'm getting no faults excapt the air flow mass sensor but I have blocked the EGR without mapping it out so I'm led to believe this causes the fault?

Van is almost impossible to drive at this stage, sometimes it won't even rev past idle when she loses power, but if she sits for a few seconds she will clear and drive normally for a short while before starting to lose power above 1500rpm very intermittently.

So I was thinking I should just go buy a genuine scv? The prv doesn't bypass under idle (had no one to rev) but should it bypass at all even when driving normally?

Any help guys? TIA

Surprised the engine ran very well at all considering the SCV and PRV aren't genuine. The FRP sensors never fail so I'd be refitting the original genuine one. Were the "learns" done after fitting the new valves..? If not you're wasting your time.

The SCV and PRV should be genuine Denso or Ford items and then the learns need to be done or it will never run properly....non genuine valves tend to fail the learns and even if they do miraculously pass, they don't last long. The PRV should never go into bypass, it's there to save the rest of the fuel system should there be a high pressure fault. If it leaks or has gone into by-pass, it's munted and needs replacing.....the engine will not start if it is leaking too much.

With the EGR, you may be going into limp mode if the EGR has been blanked without mapping it out. Blanking the EGR without mapping it out will normally throw MAF and MAP sensor fault codes and eventually go into limp mode which means the PCM will try to save the engine from further damage.

Lord Knobrot

Yes she will do the learns no problem and passes them. I only thought the relief might be opening and closing as normally my van loses the most power when changing up gears and I floor it, but if I sometimes come off the throttle and ease it back on I will get more power back.

I had it on delphi software last week and monitored rail pressure desired v current reading. On full throttle ignition was asking for 155bar but it was very unsteady and never got above 115bar. I wpuld almost rule the pump out as I'm getting no faults at all, but could a leaky injector really be this bad? Sometimes I can't get any revs above idle for a few seconds. Sometime idle is hunting badly and also dies at junctions when clutch is depressed.

Some symptoms point toward the scv but I wpuld like to know more before I go and spend money on genuine ones.